octavious
octavious Reader
4/16/14 9:35 a.m.

If so I missed it. I really should not be allowed to look at Craigslist for cars anymore. I found a 1964 Corvair that has peaked my interest. How are these to drive? Find parts for? Etc? Anyone own/owned one? Things to look for if I am going to look at one?

I know they were air cooled, RWD, and got a bad rep back in the day. However, were they Chevys attempt at incoming Porsche/VW? If so I find that very interesting.

Thanks

TR8owner
TR8owner HalfDork
4/16/14 11:18 a.m.

There is a soft place in my heart for Corvairs since my parents owned a 61 and a 65 when I was growing up. I learned how to drive on the 65 as well as my mom's Austin Mini 850 as a teenager. If I could ever wean myself off British cars, a Corvair would be at the front of the list. My parents cars were mundane four door sedan versions but if could ever find a Yenko Stinger at the right price.....

A friend of mine has a 65 convertible. He tells me there is lots of technical support and no trouble finding parts for Corvairs.

TeamEvil
TeamEvil Reader
4/16/14 12:15 p.m.

I've owned two, both convertibles and just LOVED both of them. They were pre-1964 cars, but I never had a problem with the handling in either. Like fun little go-karts really. The six cylinder engine is a nice surprise if you're used to VWs or Porsches. The cars really ARE Chevys, throughout. High quality, strong, well made and appointed. The trim level is between a Nova and a Chevelle of the period.

We're lucky around here in that Clark's Corvair is located in the Western part of Massachusetts so we have access to everything, yet with the internet, Ebay, forums and the like, parts are all around.

Having already owned a couple of Monza convertibles, I would really like to find a neat little early four door sedan next. They're rarer than the more desirable cars as they've mostly been givin up for parts to restore another or scrapped due to nobody wanting that model.

But I sure do.

You'll love owning one. There's a great Corvair show in Shrewsbury here in Massachusaetts each Summer if you're anywhere near by. It's called VolksVair.

aircooled
aircooled UltimaDork
4/16/14 4:00 p.m.

I have a 64 convertible. The 64 is theoretically the "best" of the early models. It has the larger engine, finned rear drums and a transverse leaf spring across the back suspension (camber compensater). They drive nice, good brakes. Still it IS an early 60's car, but WAY different then early 60's cars.

Steering very light, but VERY slow (5.5 turns lock to lock). Body roll is almost non-existent compared to other early 60's car but it still will have some. Engine is quirky, but easy to work on. Most parts are cheap, but some engine parts (e.g. cranks, heads) are only available used.

What to look for in a 64: Front floors (as with most cars). Battery tray (left rear). Trunk bottom (under mat). Just in front of the doors, under side, just outside the body seam, there is a drain. Poke a stick in it and see what comes out.

One very goofy area in the early Corvairs: The lower frame rail area from the rear of the doors back to the front of the rear wheel opening. This is a VERY silly two layers of metal pinching together area.... where the rear window drains!! Great potential for rust here. If it's a Monza, it will have some chrome trim there. Make sure to look around it, take it off if you can.

Another critical thing on early Corvairs: Rear wheel bearings. Listen for noise. Potentially dangerous (wheel and axle can come off) if they are VERY bad. They can be rebuilt though. Not super easy, but they can be done.

The one thing that can kill the deal for most Corvairs is a bad engine. They are expensive to rebuild relative to the value of most of the cars (2-3 grand for a decent rebuild) so most cars with bad engines will get scrapped. The supply of good used engines is much smaller these days.

Feel free to ask away, post pictures if you can, I will answer what I can. (I am doing body work on my 64 currently)

TxCoyote
TxCoyote Reader
4/17/14 3:31 p.m.

I recently purchased a 65 Monza that is going to become a Yenko tribute Vintage Racer. I am in the process of taking it down to the tub now and a few observations; Lots of rust in the floorpans and around the front and rear glass. Luckily replacement sheet metal is available. As with most 60's GM cars it is rather simple so that will be a plus on both dis-assembly and re-assembly. Since mine will be a race car I am not concerned about the interior and fru-fru bits. Good thing because some are hard to find at a decent price. It seems to me to make this a good car will require some ingenuity as the suspension was typical period GM crappy. But it does have a cool factor unlike anything else with a few exceptions.

914Driver
914Driver MegaDork
4/17/14 5:32 p.m.

Anything you need.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/main

TeamEvil
TeamEvil Reader
4/17/14 6:31 p.m.

I've visited there, pretty remarkable ! !

Woody
Woody GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
4/17/14 6:45 p.m.

Here's a good introduction to Corvairs:

https://archive.org/details/Corvairi1960

ronbros
ronbros Reader
4/18/14 7:27 p.m.

i owned a 65 conv. Spyder, a GREAT car, one of the best for that era.

started to leak a little oil from the push tubes, took them off and replaced the cork seals with Harley Davidson neoprene seals, never leaked a drop again!

TR8owner
TR8owner HalfDork
4/19/14 10:53 a.m.

I knew that I had a Yenko photo somewhere. Here it is.

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid PowerDork
4/19/14 12:21 p.m.

I have a '68 Monza Coupe. My build thread is here:

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1968-corvair-monza-coupe-restoration/74717/page1/

I have been around Corvairs all my life and they are a blast to drive. They're not the fastest car out there, but they handle well and they are a good touring car.

I think most the advice that has been given is pretty accurate. One thing I will add, is to make sure you have the correct tire pressures! With modern radial tires, 20 psi in the front and 30 psi in the real is pretty common.

I'm going to be an enabler and show you my dads '64.

stan
stan GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
4/22/14 6:49 a.m.

More enabling:

http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4389112534.html

So...tempting...

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse Dork
4/22/14 12:47 p.m.

We have a 64 vert. I can't add much more to aircooled's discussion above, being nearly the same car. ;-) We love it, and drive it everywhere. The brakes are not enough for my style of driving- even when they were adjusted properly I found them to fade on hard stops over about 40 mph. We plan on upgrading to disc brakes soon on the front.

The 64's really are the best handling of the "earlies", but because of that some of the parts are 64 specific and can be tough to find. The 65-later got rid of the swing axle completely for true IRS and supposedly are better handlers. The bolt pattern also switch ed from a 4 lug to the Gm standard 5 on 4.75, which makes sourcing upgraded brakes and wheels easier. But I prefer the styling of the "earlies". shrug

Rust is the big killer, since they are unibody and things like the front fenders do not bolt on. Anything mechanical can be fixed, and while they are a little weird, they're fairly sturdy and not bad to work on.

As for the rear wheel bearings, Clarks sells an upgraded rear bearing and housing that is supposed to be much more durable. My car has them. Also, the flywheel on the manual trans cars is rivetted. Some get loose rivets and can vibrate. I have an aftermarket bolted one on my car. I have brand new heater ducting and a solid, rust free Cali car, and the heater still doesn't do much other than warm my feet where the duct is. Oh well.

aircooled
aircooled UltimaDork
4/22/14 3:43 p.m.

One of the common fixed for the heater is a hi-volume heater blower (e.g. one out of a Cadillac). That gets the heat moving a bit more (using a relay is suggested). That said, even with a big blower, Corvairs will not generate heat on a cold day as quickly or as hot as a water pumper.

There are "good" riveted flywheels (hot riveted), but they have to done right and will likely be done recently (there is a guy here in California who does them).

As an additional note on body work on Corvairs. As noted, none of the fenders come off without cutting. Also, there are a lot of areas on the car that you cannot get behind, which makes pounding out dents a lot harder. E.g. the rear panel on an early is a nightmare of layered metal a frame rail and spot welds! If you run into an early car then needs that panel replaced... run way!!

So, be aware, doing body work on a Corvair will likely take a bit more effort then a traditional car. The stud welder that HF sells is a huge help.

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
FtgEUcBzGE6yvnaxje3BGrXm0XSY9mNeXz2etGAHNhK9cv3G8pp4rZQl05iuSgUM