mgmike69
mgmike69 New Reader
8/28/09 12:38 p.m.

i am looking to build a stout tr6 engine for my 77 tvr 2500m.i would like to make somewhere in the 150-175 hp range naturally aspirated if possible.i am looking for advice on how to accomplish that goal.anyone had any experience on building a strong tr6 engine without going broke any and all advice is appreciated.

kyproset
kyproset New Reader
8/29/09 2:25 a.m.

electronic ignition with different curve porting,polishing ports headers 2" going int 2 into 1 2or 3 webers dcoe with manifold, play with the jets according to cam spec. fast road cam roller rockers uprated non flexing pushrods, measure length after milling head. 9.5 cr lighter flywheel get rid of emission egr valve and vacuum retard plummage balance everything

i don't what exactly will your horsepower figure will end up being but i bet you this is going to give you what you want. be prepared to spend some money. no pain no gain.

bravenrace
bravenrace HalfDork
8/31/09 6:46 a.m.

To add to the previous post, there is quite a bit of material on the head that can be milled off to raise the compression ratio, and this is one key to making more power. Also, you don't necessarily need Weber carbs to acheive that level of power, as the factory ZS carbs are capable of handling that level of power. To re-iterate, the stock ignition needs upgraded, mostly IMO because it can't provide enough timing advance for good performance. I modded my distributor myself to provide more advance and it helped a lot. Of course an electronic ignition is great for a variety of reasons. Beyond that, you need to improve air and fuel flow, form intake to exhaust. Making 150Hp isn't hard at all with these engines, but they do have limits. Make calculated modifications and I think you'll have no problem acheiving what you are looking for.
If interested, I have a newly rebuilt engine that I may be interested in selling. It has a milled head and a GP2 cam. Email me if interested. Jim bravenrace@yahoo.com

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