1998 Neon EX - what's to know?

*UPDATE URGENT QUESTION NEED HELP SEE LAST POST****

So with gas creeping up over $1.30/L my DD is killing me...Chev 2500, 6.0/4L80E. I'm thinking of a cheap daily driver. Found a 1998 Neon EX coupe, 5spd manual. Not sure but I think it's a DOHC. Looks very clean, average mileage. Just over 50% challenge priced.

I've always liked them, but have never owned one.

I know some of you guys are into them. Impart your knowledge please. What should I look out for?

Plan on a timing belt and water pump unless you are 100% sure they have less than 80k miles on them. Also, if the clutch cable ever broke the parts from the end that fell down into the bell housing can later bounce up and get wedged between the flywheel and starter and lock the engine up so it won't turn and you think it's dead, but if you take the washer out that's keeping it from turning it will be fine again.

Ive had two neons but dont know what to say about them.. uhhhhh

Make sure the wiring going behind the block to the oil sender and crank position sensor and alternator is not getting rubbed or burned. That area of the harness is a semi-common problem area.

uhhhh

do that timing belt/water pump thing.

then upgrade stuff? I honestly dont think they have a lot of neon-specific problems.

I haven't heard of many neon specific problems either, the 95s had wiring and head gasket problems, but after that they were fine. They need shifter bushings and motor mounts by now most likely, that's not a big deal though.

shifter bushings, motor mounts, timing belts, oil consumption, bad clkutch cables, and suspension bushings made out of paper mache. at least thats been my experience.

my 97 ACR regularly knocks down 32-35 mpg, with outliers of 25-38

theyre fun little cars. first gen seats suck. second gen seats suck less.

really, theyre easy and cheap to work on. until the motor in miune started de-manufacturing itself, it was in line for the GRM challenge.

I just bought a 99 ACR coupe. It is pretty fun daily driver. I should be getting a UPS package with the booger bushings tomorrow. I think I got 33 mpg on my first tank of gas.

I need to do the timing belt and water pump replacement as mentioned. Are there any GRM'rs in the NYC or New England area that could volunteer to help me out with this? I live in a condo and can't work on something like that where I live. I would gladly pay cash or some sort of barter to make it worth your while.

Cory

Thanks all, I figured they were pretty robust. Is the timing belt/water pump job fairly straight forward on these? Any special tools needed? This is intended to be a driver, not a project.

doc_speeder wrote: Thanks all, I figured they were pretty robust. Is the timing belt/water pump job fairly straight forward on these? Any special tools needed? This is intended to be a driver, not a project.

Not terribly easy access, but probably typical of small FWD cars. Our '97 DOHC Sport needed timing belt, water pump, head gasket, radiator, etc. Even so, the car impressed me. When I did the head gasket, I put in new rod bearings, honed the cylinders and installed new rings. Also had the head re-done and put in new HLA's, or whatever they're called. This was at near 200k miles. My wife sold the car a while after that, but last I heard, it was still running strong after years of abuse at the hands of some teenagers/20-somethings. Can't believe the 5-sp manual tranny is still going. All I did was put some synthetic Amsoil gear lube in it.

Any special tools needed?

Chrysler crank pulley puller. Parts stores rent them.

Travis_K wrote: I haven't heard of many neon specific problems either, the 95s had wiring and head gasket problems, but after that they were fine. They need shifter bushings and motor mounts by now most likely, that's not a big deal though.

Headgasket issues continued until the 1999 model year. There is a revised part that fixes it pretty permanently (depending on prep), and many cars were fixed under an unofficial amnesty discount. Look down from the top to where the headgasket protrudes from the head in places. If you see brass rivets, it's got the revised MLS gasket and you should be good to go. Even if it doesn't, the leak is almost always external only, down the back of the head. As long as oil and coolant look good, you can drive indefinitely with a bad HG as long as you keep the oil topped up.

Cam position sensor seals and oil pressure senders both like to spit oil, but both are a cheap easy fix.

Look for rust around the gas cap, and under the leading edge of the hood. Check the trunk - tailight gaskets can leak and let water in there, too. Lift up the spare and see what it looks like under there.

I had 2 first gen Neons and loved them both. I hope it's clean.

[edit] - Booger Bushings will make the trans feel brand new, and the guy that makes them is a great guy, too.

^ No way I would believe any running neon still has the composite head gasket.

Booger bushings, Motor Mounts, and, Control arm bushings will make it feel like a new car

So I went and looked at the Neon.

It's a '98 EX Coupe, no AC, no power anything, very, very clean, new summer tires, new winter tires on rims, virtually no rust, no dings etc. And its a DOHC!

Here's the issue though, and it's a bit weird so please read:

-Facts - it HAD a remote start at one point, and has an aftermarket stereo and a rats nest of wires under the drivers side dash (I think this is relevant, please read on)

It was running when I got there, but sounded really nice, quiet, revved nice etc. I let it run for a bit, the cooling fan came on, all the lights work, seems really solid.

I asked to take it for a short drive to the end of the street (no plates on it), he said sure. I hit the clutch and it made a god-awful screech (IT SOUNDED EXACTLY LIKE THE STARTER WAS ENGAGING). This only happened at the very bottom of the clutch pedal travel...

When I released the clutch, the noise continued for a couple seconds then stopped. Hit the clutch again, the noise started again. Finally, I hit the clutch, the noise started but wouldn't stop. I shut off the engine, and it wouldn't start again. Lots of battery, just no starter. The starter was very hot and smelled. Oh yeah, it's a new starter...

Here's my theory: Something in the clutch safety switch/wiring rats nest/former remote starter is triggering the starter circuit and killing the starter. Of course, I led the seller to believe that I think it's a serious issue with a bearing etc in the trans and the starter issue is unrelated.

I'm thinking of offering him $600 or so. Is my theory realistic? Is there something in the trans/clutch that would make that sound or are my instincts correct? The clutch cable feels nice and smooth, clutch travel feels perfectly normal, no noises from the trans running in neutral etc.

What's the deal?

It's theoretically possible that the starter lockout switch was reversed (at least temporarily) so that putting the clutch in engaged the starter?

Don't know why it wouldn't restart, but I have two high mileages 1998 Neons (for sale by the way).

The one with 450,000+ plus miles makes a god awful noise when you engage the clutch and sometimes continues for a while even when the clutch is released. It has done this for at least 50,000 miles. It is LOUD and sounds like the car is self destructing.

The one with 340,000 + plus miles is beginning to make this same noise occasionally. I feel like it is the throwout bearing, but have never pulled the tranny to confirm.

For the record, doc_speeder, i think your theory is correct and you have a golden opportunity to low-ball him and learn the joys of the neon starter (it's not too bad..).

So I bought it for the princely sum of $700. I'm picking it up later today. Never thought I'd be excited about owning a Neon...

I know some of you guys buy decent cars for less, but up here it seems like the basement price for ANYTHING is $1g. So I think I did pretty well. I'm sure after I do the starter/timing belt/misc stuff, I'll still be into it for well under a grand.

Next spring it will likely become my DD/autocross car. It appears they can do quite well with the right suspender setup.

ive got spare konis and acr springs....

and neons are fun. i love mine. go ahead and plan on a serat swap to second gen seats. 1st gen seats are miserable

You can get a full set of new Koni Streets for $330 shipped, i think. Im debating buying a set for mine since i stole it's front struts and it need dampers and i have stiff springs, BUT im just going to sell it eventually.. decisions decisions.