akylekoz
akylekoz UltraDork
7/13/24 1:37 p.m.

I looked at this today.

Grandpa is selling it for his grandson.  Ran when parked.  Says it has a bad tie rod end couldn't steer so he parked it, seven months ago.

Tie rods are all present.  Has new steering pump and lines recently, why else wouldn't it steer?

These have been on my bad decision bucket list for a while.

If I slap a battery in it and it starts and most things work do I offer $500 or tell him to call me when he wants it out of his yard.   
Stock in and out, quess is about 150k miles.

Frame has one small hole back by the bumper, cover is included currently removed by a deer.

akylekoz
akylekoz UltraDork
7/13/24 1:40 p.m.

04 is one of the good years for these, right?

Shifter shows front and rear lockers, it's an SE, seven seats.

Indy - Guy
Indy - Guy UltimaDork
7/13/24 1:45 p.m.

In reply to akylekoz :

$500 is just above scrap metal price.  Except for the possible loss of your time, hard to see how you could go wrong @ $500

 

akylekoz
akylekoz UltraDork
7/13/24 1:54 p.m.

He is asking $1500.

But It has been in his front yard for 7 months and Grandma wants it gone.

If it fires up and runs well I think I can make it roadworthy

This has the 4.6 rover engine, lockable center diff but no linkage to engage it

.  

akylekoz
akylekoz UltraDork
7/13/24 8:17 p.m.

Update

From the PO.

It only needs a left front wheel bearing.

BUT, it won't currently start.  Battery died and is now needs an immobilizer code or something.

Help!

I'll probable buy this if I can confirm it runs.

akylekoz
akylekoz UltraDork
7/13/24 8:51 p.m.

It cranks over real well.

Hazzard lights are blinking so I assume it thinks I'm trying to steal it.

Lights don't blink until I turn the key on and try to start it.

Tk8398
Tk8398 HalfDork
7/14/24 12:14 a.m.

Probably change the battery in the key and follow any procedures to reset it and see what happens.  Hopefully it's less annoying than the Mercedes keys can be.

CrustyRedXpress
CrustyRedXpress GRM+ Memberand Dork
7/14/24 1:18 p.m.

I looked at these 5 years ago-they fail in the most amazing ways. 

The engine castings, head gasket and cooling system in particular is a complete disaster.

It doesn't matter if it runs right now or not, the engine is already well down the path of self-destruction.

EDIT: Some light reading below

https://www.alternativeconversion.com/post/common-things-that-can-go-wrong-with-a-disco-2-rover-v8

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/just-how-bad-is-the-land-rover-discovery-lets-talk/138855/page1/

Great quote from Wally:

akylekoz
akylekoz UltraDork
7/15/24 7:15 a.m.

Ok, I read all the doom and gloom.

I'll stick with my $500 offer if it runs with out a slight miss, sounds like many of these have a miss due to a bad engine.

Other than the wheel bearing everything worked when parked.   I'm leaving it to them to figure out the immobilizer issue, if they give up I may still offer to haul it away.

I think the Alpaca interior sold me on this one.

My optimistic brain tells me that I can just jumper the immobilizer wire, swap out the wheel bearing, polish the paint and go.  The wheel bearing is so bad that the wheel has about 8-10 degrees of camber.  Is it possible that the hub is destroyed?

ddavidv
ddavidv UltimaDork
7/15/24 7:31 a.m.

paul_s0
paul_s0 Reader
7/15/24 9:54 a.m.

The angle of that front wheel makes me think there's something substantially wrong in there - more than just needing a wheel bearing (for it to be at that angle, it's almost like the bearing isn't there any more/damaged the housing).

The 4.6 is the worst / least reliable of al the Rover V8s, the later it was the worse they got-all the tooling was worn out.  Cam lobes are normally worn out by 100k miles, they like to eat head gaskets, and of course the slipped liner problem if it's not had top-hat liners fitted.

I'm a fool who likes Land Rovers, but you really want to go into that eyes open.

If you can find the 4 digit immobiliser code, this apparently is the procedure:

 

*********

The code is recorded on the security information card and is entered as follows:

  1. Using the key, turn the driver's door lock to the UNLOCK position and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds. An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the centre position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four digits that make up the EKA code.
  2. Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the UNLOCK position 4 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
  3. Enter the second digit of the code. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the LOCK position 3 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
  4. Enter the third digit of the code. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the UNLOCK position twice. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
  5. Enter the fourth digit of the code. If the fourth digit is 1, turn the key to the LOCK position once. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
  6. Finally, turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the centre position, a double bleep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.


Then, before opening the door, wait 5 minutes for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated. During the 5 minute wait for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated, the alarm indicator LED in the instrument pack continues to flash (one flash every 2 seconds). DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR OR ATTEMPT TO ENTER THE CAR until the full delay period has elapsed.

When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED stops flashing. Immediately open the door, insert the key in the ignition switch and turn the switch to position II. If the ignition switch is not turned to position II within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait, the engine is automatically immobilised again.

The EKA code will not be recognised if there is an interval of 10 seconds or more between key turns or if the key is held turned for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.

In some system configurations a successful EKA code entry is indicated by the audible warning device pulsing twice for a period of 50 ms on, 200 ms off. The theft deterrent LED is switched on for 1 second, all doors unlock, the alarm disarms and the vehicle is remobilised allowing the engine to start.

If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. Up to a maximum of 10 attempts to enter the code is possible. After 10 attempts, the BCU will not allow any further codes to be entered for a period of 10 minutes.

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