SVreX wrote: The cost of transporting a car to the Challenge does not count against the budget. The cost of transporting it home after purchasing it does. The answer is obviously to buy the car EN ROUTE to the Challenge!
Wow, brings a whole different level to parking lot build.
Given the right car, and the right people, sure can be done. Almost need a thread to come up with ideas that 5 people can pick up car x, and build it in one or two days prior to the event....
It was planned last year.
Unfortunately, the team was Team Procrastinator! (I was on it). 
alfadriver wrote:SVreX wrote: The cost of transporting a car to the Challenge does not count against the budget. The cost of transporting it home after purchasing it does. The answer is obviously to buy the car EN ROUTE to the Challenge!Wow, brings a whole different level to parking lot build. Given the right car, and the right people, sure can be done. Almost need a thread to come up with ideas that 5 people can pick up car x, and build it in one or two days prior to the event....
I think that could easily be done with a turbo Honda, a la our '09 Civic. Turbo D-series, tune with Crome... Just assign different Areas of Responsibility to different groups. "Alright, you bring the coilovers, you bring the turbo kit, you bring the fuel management, you bring the seat and harness bar..."
I like that idea.
SVreX wrote: It was planned last year. Unfortunately, the team was Team Procrastinator! (I was on it).
What... The planning for the Procrastinator team got put off... meaning all the advance preparation for building the ultimate procrastinated build didn't happen...
imagine that...
WilberM3 wrote: kind of how Andy Nelson used a piece of broken off semi-exhaust from the highway in the Z car build
...or the sheet metal from a broken washing machine for the floor pan of the yellow volksrod.
OK,I know the rule states DOT tires for the autocross but new tires are not in the budget and I have a set of Hoosier slicks there about wore out but will allow my car to make the challenge,Do you guys think they will allow this or boot me? There not super wide or anything there 275 40 17 and would not make a difference with my driving ability.lol
Hoosier A6s and R6s are DOT tires.
Can't fine any in my budget..would like to fine a set in 16 or 17 but been looking for 4 months and nothing yet.
I have a set of Hankook C70 compound autocross tires you can have for the cost of shipping. 275/40 R17. They've got a few runs left in them.
How much for shipping to 66109
In reply to hrdlydangerous:
How much is shipping to 32177 FL,Also I have a UPS account and get great shipping prices if that helps. Thanks
Ok guys another question.I have an old vw fiverglass kit body I bought at auction last year and have toyed with the idea of doing some radical glass work and making my project look like a GTM super car.would this be a kit car then if it were built on a production chassis? I would use the factory doors most of the rearend and a complete transformation using the stock hood and glass frontend. heres a pic of the two that would be made into one
I don't think that would be considered a kit car. You should do it.
In reply to hrdlydangerous:
Plan A is this I have already took a C6 gt corvette nose cut it up and made this one piece front end but just cant get that GTM car look out of my head.So plan A or B?? lol
In reply to speedbiu:
You wont be happy building "A" if you really want "B". Bite the bullet and get started on "B".
bluej wrote:Derick Freese wrote: I've been picking up debris from car crashes (anything metal, anything that looks remotely useful) for the Challenge build. I have some metal bumpers and some ground effects bits that I plan on counting the same as dumpster finds (free for the taking).ronholm, I mostly agree with the above. if it was available for anyone, not just specifically you and you got it free, then they're free. if it was something you just had laying around and are now deciding to use for the challenge, then scrap price for the budget should be fine since that's the "fair market value" of just the metal.
This might be my favorite rule. Especially since we were already in the habbit of picking up scrap metal on the side of the road. It's still amazes me what some people throw away. I still haven't found 2.5" tubing for intercooler piping though.
One thing I'm still unclear on is figuring the cost to included in the budget if you buy several pieces of something but don't use all of it. An example, at an estate sale I bought a pop rivet gun and more rivets and aluminum backing washers than I might use in my lifetime. I paid $7 for all of it. I plan to only use about 20 or 30 rivets.
Do you still factor the full price into the budget or figure the per piece price x number used and use that?
Also, without a receipt, how do I prove what I paid? They have a $10 sticker on it but took $7 when I offered it.
GPDren wrote:bluej wrote:This might be my favorite rule. Especially since we were already in the habbit of picking up scrap metal on the side of the road. It's still amazes me what some people throw away. I still haven't found 2.5" tubing for intercooler piping though. One thing I'm still unclear on is figuring the cost to included in the budget if you buy several pieces of something but don't use all of it. An example, at an estate sale I bought a pop rivet gun and more rivets and aluminum backing washers than I might use in my lifetime. I paid $7 for all of it. I plan to only use about 20 or 30 rivets. Do you still factor the full price into the budget or figure the per piece price x number used and use that? Also, without a receipt, how do I prove what I paid? They have a $10 sticker on it but took $7 when I offered it.Derick Freese wrote: I've been picking up debris from car crashes (anything metal, anything that looks remotely useful) for the Challenge build. I have some metal bumpers and some ground effects bits that I plan on counting the same as dumpster finds (free for the taking).ronholm, I mostly agree with the above. if it was available for anyone, not just specifically you and you got it free, then they're free. if it was something you just had laying around and are now deciding to use for the challenge, then scrap price for the budget should be fine since that's the "fair market value" of just the metal.
Is your budget THAT tight? I'd throw $1 in my budget and call it "Misc hardware".
You spent more money writing that post than you spent on those rivets.
I guess the technical answer is to take the total price, subtract the value of the gun (it's a tool), and divide the remaining money by the number of rivets you bought for a cost per rivet. Hardly seems worth it.
SVreX wrote:GPDren wrote:Is your budget THAT tight? I'd throw $1 in my budget and call it "Misc hardware". You spent more money writing that post than you spent on those rivets. I guess the technical answer is to take the total price, subtract the value of the gun (it's a tool), and divide the remaining money by the number of rivets you bought for a cost per rivet. Hardly seems worth it.bluej wrote:This might be my favorite rule. Especially since we were already in the habbit of picking up scrap metal on the side of the road. It's still amazes me what some people throw away. I still haven't found 2.5" tubing for intercooler piping though. One thing I'm still unclear on is figuring the cost to included in the budget if you buy several pieces of something but don't use all of it. An example, at an estate sale I bought a pop rivet gun and more rivets and aluminum backing washers than I might use in my lifetime. I paid $7 for all of it. I plan to only use about 20 or 30 rivets. Do you still factor the full price into the budget or figure the per piece price x number used and use that? Also, without a receipt, how do I prove what I paid? They have a $10 sticker on it but took $7 when I offered it.Derick Freese wrote: I've been picking up debris from car crashes (anything metal, anything that looks remotely useful) for the Challenge build. I have some metal bumpers and some ground effects bits that I plan on counting the same as dumpster finds (free for the taking).ronholm, I mostly agree with the above. if it was available for anyone, not just specifically you and you got it free, then they're free. if it was something you just had laying around and are now deciding to use for the challenge, then scrap price for the budget should be fine since that's the "fair market value" of just the metal.
Agreed. I purposely put a misc hardware slush fund in my budgets to cover this stuff. Misc bolts, rivets, washers, zip ties, shrink tubing, crap found around the garage, etc. All the crap that if you broke it down you'd be budgeting pennies for each piece.
Misc. bucket, apply a few bucks and call it a day for all the misc stuff you end up using on the car.
I usually try to have a $20 misc hardware fund.
Ok, I had wondered about have a misc hardware fund but wasn't too sure about it. I'm very glad I can avoid breaking down the actual per piece cost of all the little things you end up using on a build. Thanks guys!
GPDren wrote: Ok, I had wondered about have a misc hardware fund but wasn't too sure about it. I'm very glad I can avoid breaking down the actual per piece cost of all the little things you end up using on a build. Thanks guys!
NO! Each rivet is approximately 0.003 of a cent. BUDGET IT.
The most accurate way would be to melt down the rivets into a steel ingot, then head to your local scrap yard to see how much they would give for it. Get a figure, then go back home and forge the ingot into rivets again, dividing the figure given by the scrap yard by the number of rivets you make. Take that number, and multiply it by the number of rivets used. 
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:GPDren wrote: Ok, I had wondered about have a misc hardware fund but wasn't too sure about it. I'm very glad I can avoid breaking down the actual per piece cost of all the little things you end up using on a build. Thanks guys!NO! Each rivet is approximately 0.003 of a cent. BUDGET IT.
Don't forget to drain your tank before and after to accurately measure the gas you used.
Ok, another FMV question.
I already have a project vehicle, 96 Ranger and have owned it since new, tried to put in a V8 and some other pieces and after a few moves, has sat around for about 7 or 8 years. Searching around don't lead to any answers of a starting point of FMV. Running vehicles have wide variations in pricing to even think of starting from.
Anybody have any ideas?
TIA, Brian
So, you have a Ford Ranger with no motor, right? Is the List any help with non-running Rangers for comparison? Around here, that would be a case-of-beer vehicle.
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