Maybe someone in the hive may know... Honda CRV 2019
Spent over an hour with google, can not find the recommended valve clearances for the 2019 1.5 L turbo.
Used to be they were listed on the smog sticker on inside of hood. Not any more.
Service manual appears not to be for sale.
Its all a plan to force one to use the dealer for service...
L15A valve clearances (cold) are the following: intake 0.15-0.19 mm, exhaust 0.26-0.3 mm.
here are numbers for the civic turbo
Inspect valve clearance (cold)
Intake: 0.21－0.25 mm (0.009 in)
Exhaust: 0.25－0.29 mm (0.010－0.011 in)
Pretty much every Japanese ohc engine built, you are safe with .009 intake, .012 exhaust. Might be a touch tight for some, a touch loose for others...
European go .016 ish.
Why do you need to do a valve adjustment on 2019 Honda? Just curious.
Yeah, they stopped recommending valve adjustment every 15k because it wasn't necessary.
The V6s usually need adjustment around 160-200k miles. On the other end of the spectrum, the D17 I had apart last month was still in spec at 200k.
Guess I need to take a look at the 2014 Accord, as it's sitting now at 140k miles on its 2.4L
We are at 35,000 and i'm hearing a lot of clatter at idle.
That got me thinking of checking them. Of course I could wait for a "B4" code to pop up on the dash. The owners manual doesn't tell one what that mileage interval would be. You have to wait for the onboard computer to tell you when it feels like it...
I was thinking of being pro-active. But Honda appears to think the owner should be dependent on the car's computer and the dealer.
Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) said:
I was thinking of being pro-active. But Honda appears to think the owner should be dependent on the car's computer and the dealer.
On a '19 that's under warranty... why wouldn't you be?
Our 06 Ody with 234k is just starting to make a tiny bit of noise. I'm amazed at how quiet it is compared to the hydraulic lash adusters on our VWs.
I think a lot of the newer Hondas, the valve adjustments are lasting upwards to 100k miles. Nothing like the 1st gen CRV that needed 30k valve adjustments due to B20b burning exhaust valves. I do recall a friend telling me the newer cars don't seem to go out of adjustment as frequently. Did know of a Fit with the L15 burn a valve, but it apparently did not have it done for nearly 200k miles before it started misfiring and running rough. Though I plan on checking my dad's accord at 200k. The dealer did it at around 100k.
In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
They get tighter with age, not looser. They are prone to light misfire when out of adjustment.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
They get tighter with age, not looser. They are prone to light misfire when out of adjustment.
I've had two in the last month. A four cam Subaru with negative lash on the exhausts, and a Miata with exhausts ranging down to .004. Both around 100k.
Far more common than people think.
Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) said:We are at 35,000 and i'm hearing a lot of clatter at idle.
That got me thinking of checking them. Of course I could wait for a "B4" code to pop up on the dash. The owners manual doesn't tell one what that mileage interval would be. You have to wait for the onboard computer to tell you when it feels like it...
I was thinking of being pro-active. But Honda appears to think the owner should be dependent on the car's computer and the dealer.
Bear in mind, direct injected engines make a hellacious racket at idle.
Tearing into a 2 year old engine while it's still in warranty seems crazy.
Could it be injector noise that you're hearing? DI systems can make a lot of ticking noise.
Damn, beaten by 2 minutes...
It's still under warranty. Take it in if you think something is wrong.
Also, Honda provides owners manuals for free in .pdf form. Link is below for a 2019 CR-V
https://owners.honda.com/vehicle-information/information/2019/CR-V/manuals
I think the guys above hit the proverbial nail on the head. Injector noise.
Never had a direct injector engine before.
The Hive is smarter than the CRV Forum. (But we knew that already)
OBTW, the owners manual is worthless as far as maintenance specs. Intentionally vague (e.g. see dealer)
In reply to Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) :
The DI pumps are loud in new cars. It's because they have to ramp pressure up and down so rapidly, the cam lobes are almost square... which is noisey.
We had a 2010 Highlander that made a ton of injector noise when it was cold. Once it warmed up it was fine.
My 2011 GTI sounds like a diesel at idle and it only has 48k miles on it.
Eventually you'll get used to it.
Our 2014 Accord makes a horrible racket for a couple of seconds at startup, as does every one in my employer’s car pool. Has since day 1, still doing so 140k miles later. I attribute that to DI.
2011 GTI sounds like a diesel at idle, especially with the noise attenuating cover removed from the top of the engine. Again, since day 1 and now 94k miles in. Again, DI. Oh, and it carbons up the intake vales at seemingly 50k mile intervals, but that's another subject for another day.
Purple Frog (Forum Supporter) said:I think the guys above hit the proverbial nail on the head. Injector noise.
Never had a direct injector engine before.
The Hive is smarter than the CRV Forum. (But we knew that already)
OBTW, the owners manual is worthless as far as maintenance specs. Intentionally vague (e.g. see dealer)
Yes, it's very intentional. The amount of people who can be relied on doing any actual mechanical maintenence is exactly why engines have been developed to not require any maintence. That includes the ones who know to go to a mechanic even if it was free.
Over the many years I've had an Alfa, I've come to the realization that 99% of Alfa's problems are traced to owners- even smart ones who have good intentions.
We have a '20 CRV. Still under warranty. Mrs. Snowdoggie takes it to the dealer. I have so many old cars to deal with I don't ever worry about this one. Maybe I wash and vacuum it when the dealer doesn't. I don't even remember what it sounds like. Kind of like the dishwasher and the other appliances in the house.
The warranty is a double-edged sword. You don't have to do anything, but you also kinda can't even if it seems easier to do than to schedule and wait. The Mini dealer made unhappy grumbling at me for so much as reading codes when it had an issue, and I got the impression that it could go on my Permanent Record and impact future warranty decisions. Nothing bad ever came of it, and I was treated well enough, including them squeaking in a new battery less than 100 miles before the warranty was up and when it hadn't given me any trouble, but it's a funny arrangement.
I'd be *very* wary of actually opening anything up and adjusting it while under warranty.
Jesse Ransom said:The warranty is a double-edged sword. You don't have to do anything, but you also kinda can't even if it seems easier to do than to schedule and wait. The Mini dealer made unhappy grumbling at me for so much as reading codes when it had an issue, and I got the impression that it could go on my Permanent Record and impact future warranty decisions. Nothing bad ever came of it, and I was treated well enough, including them squeaking in a new battery less than 100 miles before the warranty was up and when it hadn't given me any trouble, but it's a funny arrangement.
I'd be *very* wary of actually opening anything up and adjusting it while under warranty.
That's just because dealers will look at any reason to void a warranty so it turns into customer pay. That warranty battery probably paid that tech .3 of an hour where as customer pay would bump it up to .5.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) :
They get tighter with age, not looser. They are prone to light misfire when out of adjustment.
I am probably swimming in misfires. Still on OEM plugs 
einy (Forum Supporter) said:Our 2014 Accord makes a horrible racket for a couple of seconds at startup, as does every one in my employer’s car pool. Has since day 1, still doing so 140k miles later. I attribute that to DI.
That's generally a failed intake cam pulley (VTC actuator) if that's a 2.4. They tend to do the cold start rattle at about 80k.
It's best to fix it before it rattles the chain off time, but commerical vehicles tend to get ignored until they stop moving.
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