325i vs 325e

Around here on CL there is a 1989 325i and a 1987 325e for sale

The i has 250,xxx and the interior is beat up and the lower front bumper is missing $1400.

The e has 214,xxx and is missing the mid pipe $1300. Both are MI cars and don’t have much rust (read no surface rust).

I have read up a bit on both and am thinking I could prob get either for a cool $1000 or less. I know the difference between the two and would probably end up making a budget 327eis (325e lower end and 325i head) and pick up some 325s parts, close ratio gearbox, Diff with alt gears and LSD. What one should I start with?? Any other .02 would be appreciated.

Thanks, Chris

PS: not making this a Spec e30 car.

its probably easy to swap a head than to swap a block. just a thought.

The 1989 has the smaller 'world style' bumpers, while the 1987 has the large 'diving board' bumpers if that makes a difference. Unfortunately, the newer style bumpers aren't an easy swap onto a 1987 or earlier e30. For street use, I'd go with whichever one is in the best condition - the eta isn't all that bad for day to day use and actually will feel a little torquier in stop and go city driving.

buy them both

belteshazzar wrote: buy them both

entire starting budget gone boo hoo

I'd go for the "i" personally, a nice complete sport interior isn't expensive, I think I paid $400 for a complete black leather sport interior (carpet, front and rear seats, door cards, rear inserts, kick panels)

Then pickup an E34 M50 and if you're handy with tools and wiring you could have a 24v engine in the car for around $1000.

the I head dosent just go on the E bottom end, it kills compression, so unless your planning on swapping pistons to custom ones or super-eta ones its not a good idea.

Its not work all the effort to do the stroker engine. By the time you get the deisel crank and custome pistons you have spent more than what you can pick up a twin cam M50 engine for. its easier to get an engine out of a old e34 525 auto. they are cheap since the tranmissions are going out. r3vlimited has some great articles on the swap If you want a daily driver that handels well and get good fuel economy get the E car. If you want to compete in any way with the car get the I.. the extra 50 HP is very noticible.

I would go with the 325i for a few reasons

1. Plastic bumpers
2. swapping the stuff out its easier (cheaper) to start with the I since you need the ECU, wiring harness, intake mani, head, ect.

on a side note swapping the E bottom end is to lower the compression for mostly which is in favor for people who are planning on forced induction.

i /thread

good and bad news I looked around and found an 98 325is in the area still around 250xxx and the owner is asking 1600 for it. Its a little more than I wanted but I may call him up and take a look this weekend.

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/1338345453.html

How long can a m20 go before a rebuild??

They can last a long time with regular care. My 325ix has 195k on it and it's still very strong. I know a guy with a 528e (m20 engine) that has 500+k miles on it, never been rebuilt.

I have persosn Auto Xing e30s with 350K miles on them.

the I engine will finally go with a spun bearing on piston #6 the one closest to the firewall. I have been given 3 engines and all 3 had the same issue.

You can wipe out an engine quicker by not doing a timing belt. So the 1st thing to do is the timing belt when you get the car. Also I disagree with Dirt. RE the E or ETA engines are easier to work on. the timing pick ups are off the flywheel so the sensors seem to last longer,. As for parts. There are more 528 e BMWs in the junkyards with 155k miles on them and a bad Auto trans. Perfect for parts for the E30. ETA engines.

now if i could just find a cheap transmission swap kit for my 86 325e.

178k and still rollin along on the autotragic.

Apexcarver wrote: now if i could just find a cheap transmission swap kit for my 86 325e. 178k and still rollin along on the autotragic.

The local U pull. You can get the trans. Pedal assembly and driveshaft for $200.. Your option to use a used or new flywheel- pressure plate.. etc.

Butch_86 wrote: How long can a m20 go before a rebuild??

Nobody really knows. We Spec E30 guys just run 'em. Mine has 175,000+ on it and I beat the snot out of it. 250,000 is not uncommon.

You can break them, but they don't wear out.

ddavidv wrote:

Butch_86 wrote: How long can a m20 go before a rebuild??

Nobody really knows. We Spec E30 guys just run 'em. Mine has 175,000+ on it and I beat the snot out of it. 250,000 is not uncommon.

My track car had 235k on it when the speedo/dash came out. It's still refusing to die in its 2nd season since and I've really been beating on it hard trying to kill it so I can have an excuse to finish the race engine. They don't make much power or torque but they are indestructible.

walterj wrote: They don't make much power or torque but they are indestructible.

It makes enough power to start with. Besides I am more of a add lightness guy and it is my understanding that there is a lot to come out.

belteshazzar wrote: You can break them, but they don't wear out.

I think that is the best way to describe any german engine

What kinda of mileage does the e get? I'm think about getting one for my 16 yr old.

ETA cars get 25 ish around town and 35 hi way. With a 5 speed. and not flogging the snot out of it.

35 mpg highway? That's a serious number for an inline 6. Color me impressed.

Its a low revving engine. With alot of torque. If you stay around 70 your only a little over 2k rpms. On the ES model it had a more agressive gear ratio so it could be a little lower.

Similiar number from mine: before the right front caliper started dragging, I AVERAGED 32.5 mpg, which was slightly better than my 2k3 Protege in identical driving.

The e30 sounded better too.