Needing some help picking a LSD for the 8.8 going into my ae86. Car was running a 1.5 way Cusco clutch LSD and I liked it. But now I need a stronger rear end so I’m going 8.8. Would a real loc behave similarly? Or should I aim for something like the true trac or T2R?
The trac lock is a very nice cheaply rebuildable limited slip differential. You can adjust the bias by adding / removing spacers or additional clutches. I have a 3.55 8.8 center section in the garage.... may end up in a mustang, a miata or for sale.
Do you mean the "Ford" 8.8 rear when you use the term 8.8? If so I would first rebuild the stock TL with the carbon clutches that are available and also reduce the number of steel plates by one and increase the clutch count by 1 per side. There are how to's on this on line so I won't go into it here.
IF after you do this and you're not happy then step up to one of the many aftermarket diffs available. I road raced a Mustang with the stock TL diff and when the clutches are packed right it worked quite well.
Horsepower and tire size will affect how well it works.
In reply to jimbbski :
I do mean the ford 8.8. I’m using a shortened explorer axle. Car weighs 1900-ish lbs and will eventually make ~250whp and similar torque.
I have True Tracs in both my MN12s (8.8 IRS) and like them. There's nothing wrong with the regular Ford Trac-Lok, but I think the True Trac is more durable.
I have a True Track in my 8.8 equipped RX7. Similar weight. Similar horsepower. Less toque (damnit rotary)
It has treated me quite well
A very large percentage of Explorer 8.8s came with a trac loc from the factory. If yours did, then I'd probably at least start with that and see how you like it. You can always upgrade later.
You’ll feel the weight of that Ford 8.8 behind you. It’s heavy. Rebuild the trac-loc with the carbon fiber kit and shim it tight for jdm drifting bro.
My zephyrs trac loc is rebuilt with the carbon discs and one extra per side with all the stock shims. Its pack size is in the extreme end of Ford's recommended measurements. It acts more like a welded diff on anything except clean asphalt. I would not recomend that build for turning.
In reply to _ :
It’s about 40lbs heavier than the stock diff. Not sure if that’s enough to really feel.
I have carbon and alternative order on my mustang. It's held up a few years, but would need a rebuild soon if it remains my primary autox ride. That said, the weight distribution and suspension geometry on it are abusive to diffs. Rebuild isn't hard. Worst part is getting the s-spring back in.
In reply to Apexcarver :
What’s the lockup like? Fairly progressive or really “on” and “off”?
I am a fan of the factory trac-lok. Strong, durable, and cheap. Near infinite gearing choices in the 8.8 is a bonus.
AutoXing a 2100lb truck with an IRS channeling 340lbft to the ground, the largest downfall of the trac-lok is keeping both tires on the ground. If your suspension lifts the inside rear tire you will burn up the clutches.
I use restacked standard clutches, and set my break away torque ~70ftlbs. Above 100 it may as well be welded, and below 40 I start to get some inside tire spin-up. When it gets loose, reshim it and go again! I have lost track of how many seasons I have on the same used clutches... based on this, I have no personal experience with the carbon clutches beyond installing them for other people. The standard ones work so well for me I cannot justify the extra expense.
gumby said:I use restacked standard clutches, and set my break away torque ~70ftlbs. Above 100 it may as well be welded, and below 40 I start to get some inside tire spin-up.
This is the part where Knurled shouts "WUSS", and points out that he'd set up his Mazda rearends to have about 200-250 ft-lb of breakaway preload.
As long as the breakaway torque is lower than the torque needed to break an axle, it's fine. Otherwise the tires will be the limit, rght?
In reply to Fitzauto :
Fairly progressive , works well in my application.
Knurled. said:gumby said:I use restacked standard clutches, and set my break away torque ~70ftlbs. Above 100 it may as well be welded, and below 40 I start to get some inside tire spin-up.
This is the part where Knurled shouts "WUSS", and points out that he'd set up his Mazda rearends to have about 200-250 ft-lb of breakaway preload.
As long as the breakaway torque is lower than the torque needed to break an axle, it's fine. Otherwise the tires will be the limit, rght?
The breakaway torque on my 8.8 is a bit over 160ft lbs and it drags the tire on dirt and gravel. At 250 I'd be drifting my driveway
dropstep said:Knurled. said:gumby said:I use restacked standard clutches, and set my break away torque ~70ftlbs. Above 100 it may as well be welded, and below 40 I start to get some inside tire spin-up.
This is the part where Knurled shouts "WUSS", and points out that he'd set up his Mazda rearends to have about 200-250 ft-lb of breakaway preload.
As long as the breakaway torque is lower than the torque needed to break an axle, it's fine. Otherwise the tires will be the limit, rght?
The breakaway torque on my 8.8 is a bit over 160ft lbs and it drags the tire on dirt and gravel. At 250 I'd be drifting my driveway
That just means you need more traction in the tires.
Knurled. said:dropstep said:Knurled. said:gumby said:I use restacked standard clutches, and set my break away torque ~70ftlbs. Above 100 it may as well be welded, and below 40 I start to get some inside tire spin-up.
This is the part where Knurled shouts "WUSS", and points out that he'd set up his Mazda rearends to have about 200-250 ft-lb of breakaway preload.
As long as the breakaway torque is lower than the torque needed to break an axle, it's fine. Otherwise the tires will be the limit, rght?
The breakaway torque on my 8.8 is a bit over 160ft lbs and it drags the tire on dirt and gravel. At 250 I'd be drifting my driveway
That just means you need more traction in the tires.
well they are usually either 225 60 r16s or some junk burnout comp tires so that could be. It weighs 3260 empty andit's a wagon. Your breakaway torque makes me think that probably handles like my friends mini spooled s10
In reply to dropstep :
If you ain't on it, you ain't movin'.
On the other hand, that did result in this.
but that was on realy slimy dirt, so, you know
Just chiming in with my love for the factory TracLoc. Durable, customizable, and cheap. They also perform very well, but I'll admit I have never used one in a race application.
Sounds like trak-loc with carbon clutches outta hold me for awhile.
Fitzauto said:Sounds like trak-loc with carbon clutches outta hold me for awhile.
Just make sure to use the 75-140 gear oil that frpp recommends.
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