Currently stuck in a parking lot waiting for AAA, cranks like mad but won’t fire. The InterWebz day CPS, what does GRM say?
Come to think of it, it had been acting a little funny recently with it starting and then dying immediately. Needed a few more cranks before it would restart, however this time there is nada.
Usually CPS, particularly when it restarts immediately. Can be replaced in a parking lot, very easy repair. Hope it is something simple.
When it started and immediately died, it felt a bit like a carbed car with vapour lock. Started pretty much immediately this morning and got here fine.
I hope it’s something simple and I can get the parts in time, otherwise I can kiss the race next weekend goodbye.
If the tach doesn’t move while cranking it’s a cps. If the tach moves it might be an idm or icp.
The tach is just about lifting off it's resting position.
The tow truck driver stuck his head under the truck while I cranked it and did mention that he couldn't hear the fuel pump(s) running. That's probably not a good sign 
.
Check your fuses. I had a no WTS light no fuel pump but the tach moved-no start issue in my 2000 7.3 last month. It was a PITA but once I found my ecu power fuse kept blowing I found what I thought was the issue. Secured the wiring harness over the valve cover and replaced the ecu power fuse and diode and the truck ran like nothing was ever wrong. Then a few weeks later (yesterday) it happened again.
I'll link my threads from the ford truck forums below. Not sure how much it'll help being my 7.3 is a 2000. But same exact no start symptoms as yours.
BoxheadTim said:The tach is just about lifting off it's resting position.
The tow truck driver stuck his head under the truck while I cranked it and did mention that he couldn't hear the fuel pump(s) running. That's probably not a good sign
Don’t fret, it’s mechanical.
What was the ambient temp? Glow plug relays fail pretty regularly every 60-100k. If the ambient temps were below about 55F it might not start. My PSD would start down to about 45F without hot plugs, but toward the end of its life (lower compression I guess) it wouldn't start below 60F if the GPR had failed.
The wait to start light is not an indicator of GPR function, it's a calculated thing from the computer. The computer will continue to cycle the GPR a few seconds at a time for a few minutes to help with cold start emissions, even after you've driven away. The WTS light is a guide that tells you when (in that complex cycle) it is good to go. Hearing the GPR click is also not an indicator. You have to watch the volt meter. If you turn on the switch, it should jump to a little over 12v, then drop down a volt or two when the GPR clicks. If the volt meter doesn't drop, the GPR isn't sending juice to the plugs.
In reply to Curtis :
He's in Carson city so probably about 50deg. No wts isn't an indicator of gpr but will tell you if your ecu is getting power. There's a lot of reasons why a 7.3 will crank but not start. I wonder if he's getting a wts light and if the gpr clicking. He's got no fuel pump but a moving tach.
With all of my powerstrokes, GPR clicking doesn't indicate current flow. You have to watch the volt meter. It's rarely the low side that fails, its the points on the high-current side that burn up and quit, so it will still click even though current may not be flowing.
There is also a possibility that its a bad ignition switch. My 95 had a bad switch and it would drop current to the ECM. The transmission would shift funny and it would run rough.
CPS is a high probability. A spot of crap fuel or water could have passed through. Doubtful its an HPOP, they usually work or don't.
Ranger50 said:BoxheadTim said:The tach is just about lifting off it's resting position.
The tow truck driver stuck his head under the truck while I cranked it and did mention that he couldn't hear the fuel pump(s) running. That's probably not a good sign
Don’t fret, it’s mechanical.
I know the HPOP is mechanical, but I don't seem to be able to figure out (yet) if these have an electrical lift pump as well like the GM diesels. I'm assuming from your comment they don't?
Curtis said:What was the ambient temp? Glow plug relays fail pretty regularly every 60-100k. If the ambient temps were below about 55F it might not start. My PSD would start down to about 45F without hot plugs, but toward the end of its life (lower compression I guess) it wouldn't start below 60F if the GPR had failed.
Ambient was 80+ and I had just driven it 30-ish miles to Summit Racing to pick up some parts for the race car. Engine was still warm when I tried to start it.
The wait to start light is not an indicator of GPR function, it's a calculated thing from the computer. The computer will continue to cycle the GPR a few seconds at a time for a few minutes to help with cold start emissions, even after you've driven away. The WTS light is a guide that tells you when (in that complex cycle) it is good to go. Hearing the GPR click is also not an indicator. You have to watch the volt meter. If you turn on the switch, it should jump to a little over 12v, then drop down a volt or two when the GPR clicks. If the volt meter doesn't drop, the GPR isn't sending juice to the plugs.
I'll have to double check again but IIRC the VM drops as you describe.
yupididit said:In reply to Curtis :
He's in Carson city so probably about 50deg. No wts isn't an indicator of gpr but will tell you if your ecu is getting power. There's a lot of reasons why a 7.3 will crank but not start. I wonder if he's getting a wts light and if the gpr clicking. He's got no fuel pump but a moving tach.
WTS and the other warning lights below it are working.
I'll try to have another poke around the truck today after fixing the electrical issues on the formula car, but based on the comments above and the rest of the Internet, I'll probably throw a CPS at it as it seems to be the odds-on favourite for a non-start condition.
In reply to BoxheadTim :
Correct on the fuel pump. It sits in the lifter valley and fills the fuel bowl via a foot on the camshaft.
OK. I'll double check that the fuel bowl has fuel in it (just to rule out a fueling issue) and will probably try to pop in a new CPS as my local NAPA allegedly has one in stock.
Yeah... not a GPR issue.
Try a CPS. They often cause the issue you're describing. If that doesn't work, report back.
If the CPS don't do it test the IPR and IDM.
Is there a lift pump and is it working with the key on? Happened to me once.
In reply to tooms351 :
As Ranger50 pointed out above, the lift pump is mechanical. So as long as the engine turns over (which it does), it should work.
Oh didn't see that, mine is a 2000 PS so wasn't sure if they were the same.
Replacement CPS acquired - local NAPA actually had one in stock. Fingers crossed that this will fix the issue.
But first, lunch.
New CPS fitted. Getting much more noticeable tach signal when cranking. Fired after a couple of cranks as well so I figured I’ll top up the tanks. You know, just in case like. Ran much better on the way to the gas station so I think the grey CPS that was in there was in the way out
Currently waiting for the next tow truck to show up as the bastard thing refuses to start again.
I guess it wasn’t the CPS after all. Time to drop it off with the pros.
Do the simple test and take the IDM off the drivers inner fender and shake it. If it feels really heavy or it sounds like an ocean, you need another.
Will do once I’m home and have access to tools again.
VCH had a similar experience on an 7.3. The parts store CPS turned out to be a dud.
That’s certainly a possibility. I do see the tach needle moving when cranking the engine though.
Ranger50 said:Do the simple test and take the IDM off the drivers inner fender and shake it. If it feels really heavy or it sounds like an ocean, you need another.
No signs of water damage .
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