A/C compressor failed in our '02 Grand Cherokee. Since it's a/c related and I don't the tools or expertise I took it to a reputable shop (I've never worked with them, but a trusted friend has).
Their diagnosis is that the compressor threw metal everywhere when it failed. They suggest replacing everything (I am not sure if this includes the evaporator or not). I will pick up the vehicle shortly and find out exactly which parts they recommend replacing.
The estimate for the repair is approximately $1k which is a lot of money to me right now. It's getting hot and this is the family car so we will likely do the repair. I'm just trying to get an idea of what's necessary, recommended and unnecessary when it comes to a/c repairs.
I know receiver-driers can't be reasonably flushed so I'm assuming it should be replaced with the compressor. What about the condensor? Replace or flush?
Does the price tag for this work seem high to anyone or is it about right for this type of work?
If I price out the parts online I come up with the following prices:
Compressor - $290
Evaporator - $95
Condensor - $106
Receiver-Drier - $65
That leaves about $500 for labor unless the parts they're using are higher quality and cost more than what I can get myself online. Does this sound like a 5 hour job?
Thanks for any help. Sorry for the long post.
I'd replace the compressor and receiver and flush the rest of of the system. Then get the vacuum pump and gauges from autozone along with the refridgerant, oil, etc., and dig in.
I didn't replace the drier in my system, but it hadn't had metal bits pumped into it.
Also - I'm sure they are using cheaper parts than you've come up with.
I'd want to see the shavings. I've seen a lot of those compressors go bad, but never seen one of those puke metal into the system.
At that price, they are not replacing the evaporator. That would at least double the cost due to the amount of labor involved. I can't access Alldata from home but IIRC it's around 8.5 hours labor to replace the evap. Add 1.4 hours for evac and charge, around 1.5 for the compressor, another .5 for the receiver drier and another .8 or so for the condenser and that's 12.7 hours. That works out to around $40/hour and I haven't seen that labor rate since the 1980's.
Warning: if it has the dual zone automatic A/C the evaporators are at best flimsy and prone to failure. If it turns out the evap crapped the bed, on the ATC systems the actuators will break the doors in the top of the cases rendering temp control inoperative. So if you do have to replace an ATC evap, have the top of the case replaced as well, you'll thank yourself later. That doesn't happen on the manual systems, in fact those aren't as hard on evaps as the ATC system.
I have seen metal fuzz in A/C systems before. it's not real common, but it can occur.
Here's the deal: the R/D is on the liquid side of the compressor AFTER the condenser.
So if the compressor seizes yes any metal or other particles will go into the condenser. If they lodge in it, it can not only cause a restriction but anything that gets past the receiver drier can lodge in the expansion valve or even manage to work its way into the new compressor. That's why the A/C parts suppliers insist that the receiver drier be replaced along with the compressor or the warranty is void.
There is no real way to know if something is stuck in the condenser without either cutting it open (obviously not a good idea) or backflushing it. So it's best to backflush it regardless. If a lot of junk comes out, then I would want to replace the condenser since it's real easy for all kinds of stuff to lodge in it.
Remanufactured compressors suck balls. I put two remans on the Trooper and each lasted ~ a year before crapping out. When the second reman
went tits up last year, I bought a new compressor from these folks: http://www.discountacparts.com/ I was concerned that it might be some third world junk but it was new Made in Japan stuff. There's no reason you can't swap the parts yourself and then have it recharged. Obligatory warning: if you do something wrong and the system doesn't work, whoever charges it will still bill you for their labor and refrigerant!
Update:
I'm not taking the grassroots approach this time around. It's the family hauler and I can't afford to screw it up and I don't really have the time to do it right.
2nd opinion from a different shop confirmed the original diagnosis.
I'm going to have the original shop do the work and they will replace the compressor, condenser, receiver-drier and the expansion valve.
If it did in fact puke metal in the system, the expansion valve will catch it. Just change the compressor, expansion valve, and drier and you'll be fine.
Whoops, I didn't finish reading you're last post. Got busy at work and forgot what I was doing. Anyway, there's no need to replace the condenser. Like I said in the last post, the expansion valve and the drier will catch the shavings. If you're worried about stuff in the condenser, it's easy enough to blow it out with an air hose once you disconnect the lines.
Shops won't warranty compressors unless you do all of the above. On the 20% chance that you do have crap all through the system, they are not willing to gamble on replacing a compressor in a few months for free because you didn't want to do the rest.
At my shop, the suppliers we use for A/C stuff won't warranty the compressor unless we buy the whole kit - compressor, expansion valve, and receiver. Our shop will warranty the work if you just do the compressor and receiver. Expansion valves are often VERY labor intensive to replace and rarely fail.
At my shop, here is how it would probably play out (and keep in mind we are a super cheap cut-rate shop) -
Labor rate $90/hr
1.4 hr - evac and recharge
1.5 hr - replace compressor
.5 hr - replace receiver
$450 compressor kit with receiver and expansion valve
That is 3.4 hrs (which is a guess) which is $306 labor. Add $450 parts, that's nearly $900 with tax, and that doesn't even cover the crap the state charges us for our R134 license.
I think $1000 is cheap. I'd hit you right between the eyes at $1200 if you anonymously came to my shop.... and we're the cheapest in town.
Do yourself a favor. Hit an A/C shop and give them your freon. Let them recover it. They'll often do it for free, but even if you pay $20 its worth it. Buy the parts, install them yourself, and then take it for a 1.4 hr evac and recharge. That way you pay $400 for your parts and $150 for the freon.
In reply to twolittlebroncos:
If the compressor locked up, it did put metal into the system, no doubt about it. I'd flush the system and then replace the compressor and drier/accumulator. If it's an orifice tube system, I'd replace that also. If possible, I'd remove the expansion valve (if equipped) and clean it separately. The evap, condenser and hoses don't need replaced unless they are failed.
Some shops will only do jobs like this if they can replace everything. That's the surest way of insuring good compressor life. It's not needed if the job is done right, but if that's the only way they'll do it then you may have to take it somewhere else. The main thing is to pick your a/c shop carefully and make sure the work comes with a real warranty. If that new compressor pukes because there's a little metal left in the system, it will be costly.
