I literally came to say, if you can find a Shrine Racing rear seat bar, get it. I believe that first generation TT front lower control arms swap in, widen the track a bit and allow for more castor.
I literally came to say, if you can find a Shrine Racing rear seat bar, get it. I believe that first generation TT front lower control arms swap in, widen the track a bit and allow for more castor.
Captdownshift (Forum Supporter) said:I literally came to say, if you can find a Shrine Racing rear seat bar, get it. I believe that first generation TT front lower control arms swap in, widen the track a bit and allow for more castor.
Not just the control arm, the steering knuckle as well has different mounting points, giving diferent geometry and a much improved camber curve.
Thanks for the continued advice. This is a Challenge car, so we're budget constrained. We'll fix/add as much as we can but don't have a ton of budget room left. :(
In reply to dyintorace :
Just keep an eye out for a first gen TT in the junkyard if you're planning on campaigning the car in challenges beyond this year :)
Captdownshift (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to dyintorace :
Just keep an eye out for a first gen TT in the junkyard if you're planning on campaigning the car in challenges beyond this year :)
Will do!
If you can find a used Shine Racing "Real Street" suspension set up, that would be good. Apparently, this setup actually lifted the front of the car a bit to improve the suspension curve.
I used to know a guy in our SCCA region who autocrossed a 2003 GTI and had a custom Ground Control coil-over setup that was similar - raised the front and made it pretty stiff. It also ran 285/30-18 front and 245/40-18 rear A6 tires for DSP (18x10 and 18x8 wheels, respectively). Combined with a chip and charge cooler upgrades, the car was surprisingly fast. The tires were well beyond the fenders, but the suspension was so stiff it didn't matter. Stiff F&R bars, using the non-square tire setup to help the car rotate.
The Shine bar (along with the similar copies) mounts inside the rear suspension C channel. If you browse junk yards for wrecked Mk IVs, you might be able to find one for cheap, but you will have to crawl under the car to see it. Look for two bolts on each end of the C channel that would indicate a bar has been added.
The 1.8T can make pretty good power just with a chip. The VR6 is a bit harder to get more out of it - a budget turbo is usually the route.
Budget: Stiff AF suspension, but avoid lowering - higher is better. Stiff AF rear bar. As much tire as you're willing to spend for.
This is something I've often thought about... since a turbo Mk IV could be a passable "do everything" car for auto-x (DSP), rally-x (ModFwd) and hill climbs (DSP).
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