An push lock hose tips

So, have a bit of fuel system work to do, and plan to use 6an push lock.

This stuff is a mother to get together in my experience. 

Anyone have any good tips/tricks/shop made tools that make life suck less?

I have a little bottle of Royal Purple assembly lube.  I use a little bit on the barbs and it pushes toghether pretty easy.  I also use either a stainless clamp-tite clamp or a Gates heat shrink clamp.  Never had one leak.

I keep a tube of k-y in the garage for hose assembly

In reply to Patrick :

In reply to Patientzero :

Would spring clamps work? I've always used regular AN fittings for fuel setups

ChrisLS8 said:

In reply to Patientzero :

Would spring clamps work? I've always used regular AN fittings for fuel setups

If it is an actual push lock fitting (not just barb) and hose, you don't want to use any clamp. 

In reply to EvanB :

I'll keep my clamps.

In reply to Patientzero :

We actually use a hose lube in our shop.  We put plastic caps on first so we have more surface to push against.   I sell a hose with a 1/4" brass Male NPT - no surface to push against.   

Everyone in the hose world hates Pushlok fittings. 

I have used them in fuel systems and never had a leak and have never used any kind of clamps. I usually use a very small amount lubricant. I some times put the fitting in a bench vise with aluminum soft jaws and then push the hose on. I think someone makes plastic soft jaws for vises with angles and indentations for AN fittings.

Patientzero said:

In reply to EvanB :

I'll keep my clamps.

That's fine but it isn't how they are designed to be used and shouldn't be spread as information. 

The braid reinforcement is designed with a neutral weave pattern like a chinese finger trap so when they are pressurized the hose elongates and the ID reduces to grip the fitting. A traditional hose shrinks in length and the ID expands. Putting a clamp on a push lock hose defeats the angle of the braid and makes it more likely to pop off the fitting or bite into the inner tube. 

The only tools I have used to make it easier are $300+ hose presses and that buys a lot of KY. 

pirate said:

I have used them in fuel systems and never had on leak and have never used any kind of clamps. I usually use a very small amount lubricant. I some times put the fitting in a bench vise with aluminum soft jaws and then oust the hose on. I think someone makes plastic soft jaws for vises with angles and indentations for AN fittings.

Actually found these on ebay with a Google search. But Earls, Aeroquip and others make them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Vise-Jaw-Pads-Inserts-Magnetic-Aluminium-For-AN-Hose-End-Fitting-Adapter-Blue-/143494154027

I don't know if it depends on the particular hose or not, but my experience trying to get braided hose on push-lock fittings never ended well.  I could get it onto the first barb at best, but on all 3?  Forget it.  I tried heat, lube, oil, both, all of the above, etc., all spectacular failures.  

I had a project that was going to use a bunch of it.  I did some searching and found this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kts-409b

Yes, it's expensive, no argument there (although I think it was less when I splurged for it).  But damned if that thing doesn't work spectacularly.  Put a drip or two of oil on the inside of the hose, let the cordless drill do the work, and boom, one completed, leak-free hose end.  I've probably done like 75-100 hose ends with it by this point, so it now seems like money well spent.  

The Koul Tools kit is SO worth it to make sure the hose is bottomed out. I only have used it on my personal car and after struggling with the first -8an this made the rest a breeze. Well worth it in time saved.

Make sure you use a clamp (single use bands) on pressures above 60psi as most aren't rated for more without one. Verify with your hose manufacturer. 

Got all the hoses built with no leaks this weekend. 

Now, to modify the bypass regulator to drop pressure more. Still at 15psi with the regulator set to minimum pressure. The joys of going from carb to efi to carb.....

EvanB said:

Patientzero said:

In reply to EvanB :

I'll keep my clamps.

That's fine but it isn't how they are designed to be used and shouldn't be spread as information. 

The braid reinforcement is designed with a neutral weave pattern like a chinese finger trap so when they are pressurized the hose elongates and the ID reduces to grip the fitting. A traditional hose shrinks in length and the ID expands. Putting a clamp on a push lock hose defeats the angle of the braid and makes it more likely to pop off the fitting or bite into the inner tube. 

The only tools I have used to make it easier are $300+ hose presses and that buys a lot of KY. 

Tubular (glue on) bicycle tires are similar.  They have a specific bias angle to the cords that causes the tire to get smaller in diameter as it is inflated, increasing the tension on the rim.  (IIRC the "natural" bias angle for a cylinder is 37 degrees)

Since I have done all of my appointments today, I'm off to see if anyone still makes rims for tubular tires.