I always used the copper based stuff such as Never Seize, but I see there's nickle stuff and others out there now too. I consider this stuff like that hot sause. I put it on everything. What's the best today? A bottle last me years, but I'm running low now.
I have two bottles of this stuff. It should last me till I die at the rate it’s going.
I use aircraft nickel anti seize
I am a copper man, never has let me down.
Is the nickle better for like exhaust manifold bolts? I have turbos, man.... Speaking of which, there's an Esprit S4s for sale out there. Must Control Clicky Finger....
Nickel is probably the best overall, especially if you want high temp. Just looking at one brand the temp rating on the copper is up to 1800°F, nickel is up to 2600°.
Also, don't put the copper stuff on aluminum. I have a big bottle of the copper and a smaller tube of nickel.
I have an old bottle of Lok-Cease 20/20 that was given to me years ago, as a partial bottle, from a pro mechanic.
The stuff is amazing. Temps of -10F to 2,300F but the stuff is white like Crisco. No drips or stains. Claims to NSF safe for contact with food even!
I'm about out. I need more.
Some quick research tells me it might be the same as this McMaster Carr listing but that is hard to verify. I got that McMaster Carr number via this googled chatter of gunsmiths: https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Lock_Cease_20_20___Logix_Thread_Smart_Mcmaster_carr_part_number_/20-460290/
Usually have a can of Nickel around, Unflavored Antacid like Malox works in a pinch.
Interesting on the Lock Cease stuff. That would be like $30 delivered from McMaster. I've read that those can guys have problems getting them off the barrel sometimes, so it it works for them, it must be good stuff. And 2300F is a pretty good rating. Probably about the same price as the nickel stuff.
We use permatex on turbo vane packed and the copper stuff on threads.
You will be surprised how this stuff stays inside an exhaust housing.
MINIzguy said:Also, don't put the copper stuff on aluminum. I have a big bottle of the copper and a smaller tube of nickel.
Why so? I've been using it on bike parts for a couple of decades. No ill effects from what I can tell.
Car stuff - I have a similar bottle of the silver stuff from Permatex.
Aircraft grade? Pffft!
CRC sells Nuclear Grade!
(CRC is a GRM sponsor, ya know. 
)
That nuclear grade stuff is $125/lb. I think I'd use it more if it was in the $30 range.
I used to use the Loctite nickle stuff on Pred A Rotax 914's spark plugs and turbos as well as on the Pred B TPE 331's fuel nozzle bolts and igniters.
It's the stuff I use at home as well. It's ~$35 a pound where as the copper stuff is $21 a pound. A pound is going to last me the next 40 years at the rate I'm currently using it.
The Lock Cease stuff SDS says:
Chemical NameCAS No.Weight %
White mineral oil, solvent refined8042-47-545-70
Calcium carbonate471-34-115-40
Aluminum benzoate fatty acid complex82980-54-97-13
Zinc oxide1314-13-27-13*
The exact percentage (concentration) of composition has been withheld as a trade secret
So, mineral oil, tums, zinc sunblock paste and some aluminum in crisco.
Dr. Hess said:That nuclear grade stuff is $125/lb. I think I'd use it more if it was in the $30 range.
But just think - you can pass it down to your heirs like a precious commodity.
CRC does have a less expensive version.
The SDS says the nuclear stuff has nickel in it:
Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreatedheavy naphthenic50 - 607440-02-0
Nickel20 - 3064742-57-0
Residual oils (petroleum),hydrotreated10 - 207782-42-5
Graphite5 - 10
Specific chemical identity and/or percentage of composition has been withheld as a trade secret.
So, grease, nickle, squirt of oil and some pencil lead. Bill and a quarter a pound.
I think I'll pull the trigger on the mcmasters stuff. Hey, it's food grade and used on gun barrels. What else could you want?
Ian F said:MINIzguy said:Also, don't put the copper stuff on aluminum. I have a big bottle of the copper and a smaller tube of nickel.
Why so? I've been using it on bike parts for a couple of decades. No ill effects from what I can tell.
Galvanic corrosion is what a quick search brings up. Very explicitly stated on the instructions on my coilovers to not use copper anti-seize.
In reply to MINIzguy :
Interesting. I just tore down a bike I put together 20 years ago. Everything was fine.
In reply to Dr. Hess :
The McMaster stuff is an actual joy to work with and as such I am very likely to use it.
That silver stuff is misery to work with so I would often avoid using it, even if I needed it.
I’m still using the nickel based stuff from Motorcraft. OE stuff is hard to beat.
KyAllroad (Jeremy) said:
I have two bottles of this stuff. It should last me till I die at the rate it’s going.
Oddly, I have two bottles as well. I have no idea why I bought a second one at some point, seeing as the one I bought about 15 years ago is still 2/3rds full.
Also, fact that you will get silver on your face, hands, and clothes no matter how carefully you use it.
If you can find FelPro c100 in the tube it is good stuff and is less messy than jar with the brush.
I thought copper was what you wanted for the threads of spark plugs, no?
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