I just picked up a 1991 Saab 900 Turbo convertible off Craigslist for $400 and then drove it home. The car needed a new water pump and a ton of cleaning (already done).
It also has a host of electric problems. I'm installing a new ignition switch (which I think should cure most of the problems).
Is there anything else I should be on the look-out for? This is my first Saab, and it's s bit different than I'm used too!!
There's a good article on the 900 that's in the rotation of online articles on the homepage here. It's not "featured" at the moment, but I found a link.
http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/nordic-metal/
Enjoy! I've always liked those cars, I didn't realize how cool they were until I worked at a racing buddy's indie SAAB shop for a minute back in the day.
To get to that switch, you'll find three 3-sided "anti-tamper" nuts at the shifter/ignition "box." You can sometimes get them out with two flat-bladed screwdrivers. If that doesn't work, use one of the screwdrivers with a hammer and go at them sideways. Careful not to lose the washers. When you're done doing the switch, replace the nuts with 11mm. All that said, doing this job is a pain; be sure it's the ignition switch before you go for it. What are the symptoms, BTW?
Clean the grounds at the intake manifold and at the base of the radiator. If the alternator jumps around a lot when running, replace the bushings. Do not buy poly bushings for it; rubber only and replace the ones on the bracket, too. If you don't r&r the bushings, eventually, you could fatigue and break a big ground wire (hidden behind the alt.), and the car will die unexpectedly (no idiot light will glow to let you know that you've killed the battery).
The tail-light bulb assemblies on convertibles and sedans are notorious for bad grounds, so if funny electrical things happen when you hit the brakes, you'll be needing to add an additional ground. Lots of info on this at Saabnet -- search taillight ground, etc.
www.eEuroparts.com has about the best prices for Saab parts, and free shipping over 40 bucks or so.
The wastegates on these cars go out of adjustment over time, which affects spool and max boost. Take the car out on the road, put in 3rd, floor it, gently press the brake (only enough to get the lights to come on) and see where max boost is. The brake cuts boost to "base boost," which is half of max. If the needle is below half in the yellow zone, adjust it up.
With the hood up, brakes on, put the car in gear and let the clutch out a bit. If the motor rises, you need a front mount, which can tear.
If the $h!t hits the fan and you need to do a major repair, get a Bentley manual, which is an abridged factory manual. Also see www.townsendimports.com for good tech by a real Saab mechanic. Saabnet has bad usability but lots of good info if you search. Put phrases in quotes for better results.
Treat the transmission well; it is their Achilles heal.
Wow..... procainestart has a lot covered....
only thing I can add off the top of my head... is check the mounting of the lower control arms. The pass through for the axles can get loaded up with road debris, and then hold moisture... then rot. This section is where the lower control arm mounts.
IF this has failed... it can be a major PITA to repair....
I'm late to the party. Listen to those guys ^
I currently have 3 C900s. Great cars.
Great info guys. Thanks to all.
I changed the ignition switch. It cured alot of my problems. I had a whole block of components with no power before (windshield wipers, blower fan, turn signals, etc.) they are all fed from the "ignition lock" relay. Now they are powering up and working fine.
I just got a new Bentley manual yesterday. I have some more reading to do to figure out some other problems.
The alternator is moving around, so it sounds like replacing the bracket bushings is on the list for the near future.
a few custom/shop tools make repairs on an older 900 easier...
1) 7mm flex shaft driver.
2) clutch leverage tool, and clutch PP retention tool
procainestart wrote: Treat the transmission well; it is their Achilles heal.
This cannot be stressed enough, if a '91 is the same style as '82. I had two '82s; a non-turbo and a turbo. Both broke transmissions, the turbo did it twice.
I used a spark plug wire to hold the clutch pressure plate "open". I cut a bicycle inner tube's valve out and sandwiched it between some thin alum. sheet to pressurize the clutch hydraulics for bleeding.
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