Specifically this 3/8" version:
It looks like I have to replace the 15+ year old torque wrench I brought over from the UK as the markings are wearing off. I really like the idea of having a digital torque wrench that can do both torque and degrees, but don't necessarily want to splurge for a CID or similar.
Before I volunteer myself to play guinea pig or buy a regular Icon torque wrench, does anybody here have any experience with this torque wrench?
Amazing, does nobody have an opinion or experience with this?
I get a little sketched out by budget torque wrenches. The reason you're using one is for precision and accuracy, and unless you KNOW you're getting that precision you might as well just use a regular ratchet. It's one of the few tools where I always buy the best I can because usually the cost of failure is too high. I'd splurge for the CID.
I still use the old school cheapie I bought in high school. I'm with Keith. Were I to get a good torque wrench, I'd spend the $.
Keith Tanner said:
I get a little sketched out by budget torque wrenches. The reason you're using one is for precision and accuracy, and unless you KNOW you're getting that precision you might as well just use a regular ratchet. It's one of the few tools where I always buy the best I can because usually the cost of failure is too high. I'd splurge for the CID.
All the same, a good digital torque wrench that does angle torque and all the other features you'd want is like $600. So I am curious.
My wrenches are all clickers. No angle display, but you can get the accuracy without the cost (or batteries). A CDI digital 1/2" is $340 shipped but I don't think it does angle. I use protractors for that :)
In reply to Keith Tanner :
The 3/8" CDI I'm cross shopping the Quinn with is around $280 (I already have a good Norbar 1/2" torque wrench). The want for a torque wrench with angle torque is probably more driven by featuritis than a current need. OTOH you never know when an LS sneaks into one's garage.
I don't mind paying for good tools - there's enough Snap On in my toolbox to prove that - but given that I'm very much an unprofessional hobby wrench I'm keeping a bit of an eye on the bang for buck side of things.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
Keith Tanner said:
I get a little sketched out by budget torque wrenches. The reason you're using one is for precision and accuracy, and unless you KNOW you're getting that precision you might as well just use a regular ratchet. It's one of the few tools where I always buy the best I can because usually the cost of failure is too high. I'd splurge for the CID.
All the same, a good digital torque wrench that does angle torque and all the other features you'd want is like $600. So I am curious.
That's more or less why the Quinn appeals. Plus the recent, slightly higher priced HF tooling seems to see pretty good reviews. Well, as long as one stays away from the axle stands.
rustybugkiller said:
https://youtu.be/-_biYSzH87o
Test
Thanks for the link. Interesting that he uses the HF adapter to check the accuracy - IIRC the GRM torque wrench test showed that at least their version was pretty inaccurate.
I'm all about buying tools with good value - my main ratchet set is a 24 year old Mastercraft set, and I have some HF "gearwrenches" that have shown excellent durability - but I'd definitely be looking at an analog high end torque wrench over a highly featured budget one unless I needed all the features. I've had cheap torque wrenches fail to maintain calibration and it makes that tool completely useless when you lose trust in it.
It would be interesting to know how precise the digital ones really are - I've seen some digital tools that show, say, 1/100 degree on the display but have a stated accuracy of 0.2 degrees.
I know it goes against what you are trying to accomplish, but I bought a SnapOn 6 years ago to do the conrod bearings on my e46 M3 and have used it so much since that it paid for itself already. I also expect it to last many more years.
This one does angle as well as has memory and you can do multiple bolts at different torque settings in sequence, etc
Best money I have ever spent on a torque wrench.
In reply to Slippery (Forum Supporter) :
This is actually where the mention of CDI came in - at least according to the folks over at Garage Journal, CDI makes the torque wrenches for Snap-On, and apparently sells the same or extremely similar models under its own name.
84FSP
UltraDork
7/12/20 9:51 a.m.
I bought one in 1/2" to do the ls crank bolt's 240ft lbs. It seemed nice although not sure I would have bought a 3/8 that will be used often
In reply to BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) :
Innnntresting.
I have regular analog click wrenches, but got to use a digital Snap-On when rebuilding a Duratec 2.3 and am sold on the concept. Having the angle torque built into the wrench is incredible when working in tight confines. Also, the torque readout while doing the angle allows you to re-use torque to yield bolts if you a super cheapass - you can SEE the bolt yielding and know when to stop!
In reply to BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) :
I have a couple of CDI ones. Extremelly well made and made by SnapOn (It actually says SnapOn on them).
Due to the nature of what we do at work we have to have all our torque wrenches and gauges calibrated constantly at work and every couple of years I throw my personall wrenches in the bin to be calibrated. Never had a problem except with one Craftsman.
I have 6 torque wrenches and 9/10 times I end up using the SnapOn digital one. Unless its a tiny bolt, the SnapOn comes out.
Word of advise on those digital ones, keep the batteries out of them when stored.
I don't know if I could trust a precision instrument sold at a hammer store.
In reply to MrFancypants :
They seem to test very well, though. Our generous hosts gave a big thumbs up to the Icon torque wrench, and from what I've seen on YouTube (which is of course the ultimate arbiter of anything, right?) the Quinn ones seem to be very well calibrated. Assuming that the various people testing them didn't get them from the "special" bin for YouTubers, obviously.
I guess the question is, how easy it would be to get a Quinn recalibrated compared to a CDI or Norbar.
The other question is, how important would be the angle measurement? The digital CDI without the angle torque would be within budget (just about) at about twice what I'd pay for the Quinn, but if I also want angle measurements I'm looking at a $400+ CDI and that's a bit harder to justify.
Or I could just forget about that whole digital nonsense that will never catch on anyway and get a regular CDI for the same price as the Quinn.
In reply to BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) :
I'm sure it's fine, just trying to add some tongue in cheek humor.
You guys made me check :) One 1/2" Snap-On (thumbwheel adjustment), one 3/8" Mastercraft (twist handle adjustment), one 3/8" CDI (twist handle adjustment). I've had a Mastercraft fail in the past so it's mostly just taking up drawer space. 90 degrees I can figure out on my own :)
Here's my CDI. $140 shipped and I'll never second-guess it. It will never run out of batteries. I taped the selection switch into place so it only ratchets one way - I guess I can untape it if I have to torque a left hand thread.
In reply to BoxheadTim (Forum Supporter) :
Depends on how new the vehicles you are working on are, and what kind of jobs you expect to be doing.
Almost all internal engine fasteners in the past 20 years have an angle torque spec, whether the bolts are torque to yield or not. It's just more precise that way, since bolt torque is sooo dependent on what lubricants are used that it can't really be trusted. I put a cylinder head on a Honda D17 last week and was mildly shocked that it did NOT have an angle spec.
Angle specs are finding their way in other places, too, like suspension mounting fasteners. VW uses torque to yield bolts to hold wheel bearings in, for instance.
Most of the stuff I work on is 70s-90s with a smattering of early 2000s thrown in. I'd like to do another engine build soon-ish if I do find the right victim, sorry, candidate. Most of the other stuff is regular maintenance and suspension work.
Sounds like that'd be borderline from a "needing angle torque" perspective.