B&M was an accessory item offered through Hyundai and the aftermarket as well. The cap was used on all the cars after a certain date IIRC. SE would have also had full gauges (speedo, tach, temp and fuel), AC standard and the option of cruise.
B&M was an accessory item offered through Hyundai and the aftermarket as well. The cap was used on all the cars after a certain date IIRC. SE would have also had full gauges (speedo, tach, temp and fuel), AC standard and the option of cruise.
In reply to bobzilla :
I see. Definitely not an SE then. It does have A/C, but having the full set of gauges would be nice.
So things have advanced rather quickly. My buddy threw on the last few parts and got the car on the road...just in time for his wife's car to die. So, now his wife has his previous daily, and he's running the Accent. He's already got lowering springs for it, and he's ordering the basic KYBs for the SE model; they may not make much difference, but they are a different p/n than those for the GS. We'll get that stuff in fairly soon. I'm interested in fabricating a rear bar for it, but I've also got a lot of my own car work that needs doing first.
First autox is in two weeks.
In reply to 02Pilot :
Good luck and have fun!
Tires and seat time are about all you can do.
camopaint0707 said:Tires and seat time are about all you can do.
Theres a lot you can do. I get it. You have a negative opinion on Korean cars. Just because you've dismissed them doesn't mean the whole world did.
02Pilot said:So things have advanced rather quickly. My buddy threw on the last few parts and got the car on the road...just in time for his wife's car to die. So, now his wife has his previous daily, and he's running the Accent. He's already got lowering springs for it, and he's ordering the basic KYBs for the SE model; they may not make much difference, but they are a different p/n than those for the GS. We'll get that stuff in fairly soon. I'm interested in fabricating a rear bar for it, but I've also got a lot of my own car work that needs doing first.
First autox is in two weeks.
When you throw in the struts, put a pair of crash bolts to get some camber. With the softer springs you'll need it because you will have more body roll.
In reply to bobzilla :
Already on the shelf awaiting installation. I believe the new springs are both lower and stiffer, but more camber should still be beneficial.
We put in some work on the Accent today. Installed Megan Racing springs and a set of 15" American Racing wheels with Falken Azenis RT660s in 205/50-15. Probably at least the advertised 1.5" drop, and considerably stiffer than stock. New dampers were ordered but haven't arrived, so we'll have to do them later. The wheels wouldn't have been my first choice, but my buddy found them cheap, and it's his car, so....
Looks much better, and has a ton of grip now. Like plant your foot whenever you want and it goes. Midcorner? Sure, why not. It's only 110hp, so it's not like it's going to overpower the tires. It needs better dampers, but even the new KYBs he ordered may not be enough. Doing something about the bushings is probably up next, and eventually fabricating the planned rear sway bar. But it's a lot more fun than it was this morning.
Awesome.
Gut the old dampers that are on the car now and get some Koni 8610 inserts. Lowering springs will generally not work well with "regular" dampers. ..and will eventually blow them out. Use the KYBs while you do this work...
In reply to FSP_ZX2 :
The Koni inserts are an interesting idea. I don't think we'll try it short-term, but it's something to keep in mind down the line. Obviously, there's also the question of what to do for the rear, since Koni doesn't list anything for this application.
So I've been thinking about the situation with the rear roll stiffness. A sway bar is the obvious route to increase it, but looking at the rear beam, I see that it's basically just a piece of angle iron - a 90deg inverted V section all the way across. Would boxing that in with a flat bar across the bottom offer a significant increase in roll stiffness? I know little about twist-beam axle dynamics, but it seems instinctively like it might work.
First outing today. From what my buddy related, and I observed, the car needs:
- Brakes. No surprise, it just has stock street pads. Recommendations for at least appropriate pads that can be dual-use street/autox, and maybe upgraded rotors? The rears are drums, so I doubt there's much to do there. Are there any interchange parts that allow for larger brakes?
- Dampers. The new ones finally showed up, but we haven't had time to install them yet. The old ones are obviously overmatched by the stiffer springs - there's a fair bit of bouncing. We'll have to see how new units work out, but I fear this may be one of the harder problems to really solve. The Koni insert option given above may be the only real choice.
- Rear roll stiffness. No big surprise here either. I did some reading on torsion-beam axles, and it looks like one can put clamps of a sort around the axle to limit the amount of twist. This is probably going to be my first experiment, because it's relatively simple, cheap, and adjustable, but if that doesn't work, I'll try to figure out a sway bar.
- Gauges. The car was getting fairly warm - we could smell it. Need to get a basic set of gauges in there just so it doesn't blow up due to lack of information.
The car was definitely the oddball among numerous Miatae, an Audi TT, and an Elise. It clearly wasn't fast, but it didn't do too badly for being in a very early stage of development.
I've got a set of Carbotech AX-6 autocross pads on the front of my civic. I daily with them, although they dust like crazy. Noise is supposed to be an issue, haven't experienced this. Modulation and stopping power are superb.
Easy gauges could be any of these Obd gauge packages
I knew about those OBD2 gauge setups, but had forgotten - thanks for the reminder. We will look into the Carbotech AX6 - it looks like that make them for both front and rear, which is great.
In reply to 02Pilot :
I forgot about the Scangauge. I have one in my Miata. It doesn't read oil pressure, since it's not monitored by the OBD system, but I like it. I have the older version, I think it's the scangauge II. They have a newer version, but the reviews have not been good.
i'm going to buy another of the older version for the civic.
Question for the Hyundai specialists: my buddy reports that the car consumed roughly two quarts of oil in a half-day session. Now, it's got 188k miles on it, so it's not like we expected it to be fresh as a daisy, but that seems like excessive burning (it's not leaking). Any place in particular these are known to wear or fail in a way that causes significant oil consumption? I'd love for it to be something simple like a PCV problem, but I know nothing about these engines.
There's no reason your car should be getting that warm during an autocross. Especially a small stock engine. That couipled with your oil issue makes me think your engine needs some further diagnosis.
02Pilot said:Question for the Hyundai specialists: my buddy reports that the car consumed roughly two quarts of oil in a half-day session. Now, it's got 188k miles on it, so it's not like we expected it to be fresh as a daisy, but that seems like excessive burning (it's not leaking). Any place in particular these are known to wear or fail in a way that causes significant oil consumption? I'd love for it to be something simple like a PCV problem, but I know nothing about these engines.
PCV and a catch can can help if he's spending a lot of time above 5k rpms. A almost 200k miles and an unknown history it's going to be hard to tell what is normal, but the next grade up for oil weight may be a safe bet. The wife's SOHC Alpha would no burn oil until 5k on he oil change, then burn haf quart in another 500 miles, then another quart in another 500.
There is a rear disc option on that body style (supposedly), the ABS/CS cars could have them with the right option. Front, I believe the 12-17 Rio SX rotor and caliper bracket will work on this gen and give you 11" front rotors. Should be more than enough bite with the extra leverage.
In reply to camopaint0707 :
It's not a traditional autocross at this point (I probably should have noted that earlier). It's session lapping on a dedicated autocross track - sessions are maybe 15 minutes or so. They'll be doing timing later in the season, which may be shorter runs.
In reply to bobzilla :
Oh, I'll have to pass along the bigger front brake option - brake fade and general inadequacy was his biggest complaint. And that's with the stock calipers, yes? Thanks.
And he's planning to go with 15w40 at this point and monitor at the next event. Stay tuned.
In reply to 02Pilot :
I would recomend the 5w40 personally.
EDIT: if it helps, Rio likes to suck about a half quart per day doing 3-4 20 minute sessions on track. 0W40 helped a little but on 5W30 it was over a half quart per day. But that is a lot of time in the 5-6700 range.
Crash bolts are going to go in this week (along with some other stuff). Am I looking to set for maximum negative camber, or something else?
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