I recently started working on my Forester's 200k mile, engine out service and my uncontrollable scope creep has me wanting to fix some minor frame damage while I'm at it and have good access to everything. Basically I was doing some off roading a long time ago and ran across an erosion ditch that hit low down on the front bumper. I can live with the body damage for now as its not that noticeable against the rest of the car's "patina". But the bumper no longer sits straight because the crumple zone is minorly buckled on one side. It's only pushed back about 1/2". That damage also traveled across the lower radiator support putting some creases in it. I think with the right tool it wouldn't be that hard to fix. So has anybody used one of the harbor freight kits, and how did it work? Worth the ~$200?
Porto power will work, as long as you have something sturdy enough to push against. I have pushed the bottom rad support rail back on a dozen or two second gen Neons.
Just remember to watch whatever you are braced against.
I should be able to push against the subframe for support. I haven't actually figured out where to the other side should push against yet. I haven't looked at it that closely.
I've used one to fix a van bumper, lift an engine to install spacers under the motor mounts, fix tractor decks, lots of stuff. It's a good tool to have around, and as long as you keep an eye on fluid levels and what both sides are doing, it's pretty simple to use.
watching. I'm was considering one at WM but it's NLA and one at NT but they're around 80 miles away so HF is looking the most convenient day trip other than Prime shipping. Had an oopsie recently and need to push some metal out. 
I have the HF unit and have used it a several times. So far, works as advertised and has moved what I needed moved.
My brother has a motor home that has some damage to a frame outrigger from the PO. Just bought a puller attachment for the HF porta-power from FleaBay for $40 to use on that job.
It's the kind of tool that there a good substitute for and, if you can get it with one of the HF 25% coupons (like I did), it's kinda hard to say no.
ddavidv
PowerDork
10/8/18 6:37 a.m.
Being in the collision repair business I won't try hard to dissuade you since this is GRM and all but...having a shop do this on a proper frame machine really is a better way to go. Most pulls and measuring will usually cost $200-300 and then you will KNOW it's actually straight vs eyeballing it. Though my BMW M3 seems straight after it's tire wall incident earlier this year I'm having it gauged and a printout done just to be sure. "Close enough" on a 70 mph car is okay for most. Not adequate on something doing 140+.
For the OP with damage that seems to be mostly in front of the wheels the HF solution is probably okay but Subaru frame rails tend to be a bit weak to pass the crash test rating system. If you aren't careful about what you are doing you could potentially make them worse. Think ahead about where you are pushing against on both ends and what it will take to 'reverse' the damage done.
In reply to ddavidv :
Thanks. I'll post pictures when I get a chance. I'm not too concerned about the strength or accuracy of the finished product, although I think I could get it pretty darn close with some patience. All of the damage is entirely in front of the front suspension which is good.
