When things are slow at work, I start thinkin' too much...
Remove the side windows, panels, electric motors, wiring, etc to save the weight? But I like to drive in Ohio in winter sometimes. Has anyone replaced their windows with Lexan?
I even saw a site with ready-made for MKII models, but no love for the MK1.
Rally cars race in snow and they have lexan, hope this helps!
(I know it doesn't)
Lexan's a monster PITA on a street-driven car (due to extreme scratchability if nothing else). On anything but a dedicated track car, I wouldn't even consider it.
In reply to fidelity101:
I actually meant to use Lexan in the winter, versus no window at all. So it helped, sorta. 
I've seen someone with a Miata who took the window mechanisms out and replaced them with hooks on the bottom of the glass to hook over the door when installed. Might be an idea but they are either up or off.
There are anti-scratch coatings for optical lexan. Not sure how much it would cost to get car window sized things that way.
EvanB wrote: I've seen someone with a Miata who took the window mechanisms out and replaced them with hooks on the bottom of the glass to hook over the door when installed. Might be an idea but they are either up or off.
Any links to this? I am interested...
93EXCivic wrote:EvanB wrote: I've seen someone with a Miata who took the window mechanisms out and replaced them with hooks on the bottom of the glass to hook over the door when installed. Might be an idea but they are either up or off.Any links to this? I am interested...
I think its pretty common. They pop the windows in for towing the car.
Is it weird that my brain just assumed you typo'd "Linux" as "Lexan"?
EvanB wrote: I've seen someone with a Miata who took the window mechanisms out and replaced them with hooks on the bottom of the glass to hook over the door when installed. Might be an idea but they are either up or off.
I'm ok with up or off. I figure Spring-Summer-Fall would be off, Winter and rallycross would be up.
Lexan is a pain in the ass and totally worth it.
Getting the curve for the rear hatch of my RX7 took a lot of patience, but the weight savings are undeniable. I saved more than 30 pounds with that alone.
That said, I don't run side windows. But they're fairly flat so I don't see it being a problem if you can keep them attached.
Miatacage has clips for the Miata windows. They hold the windows in much more solidly than I expected, I'm impressed.
http://miatacage.com/products/11-window-clips.aspx
I've got a polycarbonate rear window in my Miata - so do at least two other guys at FM. Also polycarbonate vent windows in another car. They're not that bad to live with, really, but the main side windows would be a challenge to keep from damaging.
FYI, I figured the weight savings on a Miata rear hardtop window was about 6 lbs. Not earth shattering. On a car with bigger glass such as a hatchback, you'd obviously lose more.
Jerry wrote:EvanB wrote: I've seen someone with a Miata who took the window mechanisms out and replaced them with hooks on the bottom of the glass to hook over the door when installed. Might be an idea but they are either up or off.I'm ok with up or off. I figure Spring-Summer-Fall would be off, Winter and rallycross would be up.
NASA doesn't allow the side windows to be Lexan unless it was installed from the factory that way (GT3 Cup cars for example).
I wouldn't do it on anything other than a dedicated track car. I imagine coming up with a system to quickly remove the side windows and reinstall them and be weather-resistant would become a PITA rather quickly.
I believe this thread is the one I am thinking of (I can't see the pics at work to verify):
http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/89-roadster-projects/44470-my-na-becomes-track-car-build-thread-14.html#post1131468
Pic of a hook to hold the window up here:
http://www.saferacer.com/miata-cage-miata-window-clips
I would much rather do it this way in frameless doors where the window is unsupported while the door is open. This way you can open the door for airflow while sitting in grid and you don't worry about the lexan flexing and deforming.
If the doors are framed it would be much easier because the lexan would conform to the window track and be supported on all sides.
edit: Keith beat me to the window clips.
Cool. Thanks. Gonna make something like that for the Yugo.
Since the Yugo has fully framed windows couldn't you just remove the mechanism and add some sort of pin to lock it in the up position then remove the pin to drop it back down into the door?
I was only thinking side windows, and mostly for the weight of the glass + motor. The back window is tiny (not savings), and not sure I'd go full-on for the windshield.
Hmmm as Yoda would say I must meditate on this. (Sorry, got Star Wars on the mind while I search Jedi costumes for Halloween.)
It's amazing they want $35 for those clips...
In reply to Jerry:
I took the regulators out of my Starlet and used a dead seatbelt to move the window up and down.
Attach the male belt to the bottom of the window (I used the metal rail on the window bottom)
Route the belt up inside the door alongside the glass and out over the top if the door edge.
Bolt the female side to the door sheetmetal inside the car.
Pull the window up into place and pull the belt out and down over the inside of the door and latch it.
If you made the belt the right length it will hold the window fully up, when you unlatch the belt it will let the window drop back in, keep the male buckle sticking out so you can grab it again.
Shawn
DaveEstey wrote: It's amazing they want $35 for those clips...
Welcome to trying to make a living.
In reply to DaveEstey:
What's your time worth?
I'd charge you $65.00/hr plus materials.
Or I'd do it the cheap way and buy those.
EvanB wrote: Since the Yugo has fully framed windows couldn't you just remove the mechanism and add some sort of pin to lock it in the up position then remove the pin to drop it back down into the door?
Yeah good point. I will take a look at it and figure something out.
Other products with more R&D and production costs - sure. That piece? Not so much.
I like Trans-Maro's idea.
In reply to Trans_Maro: Band saw and some aluminum - it would take about 30 minutes to make these and I wouldn't have to pay for shipping and handling + wait a week.
DaveEstey wrote: Other products with more R&D and production costs - sure. That piece? Not so much. I like Trans-Maro's idea. In reply to Trans_Maro: Band saw and some aluminum - it would take about 30 minutes to make these and I wouldn't have to pay for shipping and handling + wait a week.
Yes, but $35 includes the "I'm incapable of making E36 M3" tax.
DaveEstey wrote: Band saw and some aluminum - it would take about 30 minutes to make these and I wouldn't have to pay for shipping and handling + wait a week.
+1 I have no proper metal-working tools and minimal training but those things would have to be under $20 for me to consider not-DIYing them (assuming I could have them at my door in a couple of days for $5). I admit if I wasn't so broke that number would be higher 
You'll need to log in to post.
