wife's minivan in a 2008 mazda5. 70k on it.
Axle came out of the trans on her way to work friday morning. Ugly noises, no forward momentum, fluid everywhere.
Couple crackheads pushed it unto a parking lot for $10 while she waited on me to get there.
I swear the axle on the drivers side i just replaced was seated. And it had the circlip on.
I got it pulled in go the shop and dropped the drain plug through a coffee filter. Theres metal shavings in it. My guess is from the splines rubbing against one another.
What is my next move? Is it still a tear the suspension apart and pull the axle and look for damage, or is jt berkeleyed already?
Drain and fill with new filter and a magnetic plug. You might be okay.
I'd stuff the axle back in it, change the fluid and see what happens.
It has a filter in it. The biggest problem you have is whether the axle seal is boogered, and whether the splines will feed back in without binding on damage.
Streetwiseguy said:
It has a filter in it. The biggest problem you have is whether the axle seal is boogered, and whether the splines will feed back in without binding on damage.
Seriously? Should i visually inspect the splines, or just see if it goes back together without too much force?
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
They won't be super damaged, but it's possible the end of the axle and the side gear might be a bit galled. Nothing a file won't fix. You just want to be sure you don't get stuff jammed together.
Torn down this morning.
Axle seal is garbage.
I dont see any obvious damage except for the very tip of the axle, and then only compared to the old.
Trans: best i could do.
New axle:
Old axle
The fit of the new axle in the trans isn't smooth, but it fits.
Thoughts?
If it fits, run it. You might change the seal incase it got damaged.
I think the most important thing is, did you actually screw up, or is there another problem? Compress old and new, compare lengths. Check retainer ring, maybe spread it a bit. Make sure the inner boot is clamped in the right spot so it isn't pulling on the inner joint.
The assemble, inspect, and send it.
Anecdote: I had a Hyunda Santa Fe, I think, come into the shop with the joint out. New shaft, installed elsewhere. Shaft got damaged, replaced with another new one. Returned a couple of weeks later, popped again. It took a pile of detective work to discover there were two shafts available, based on engine and trans options, and the one I needed didn't exist in the aftermarket. When I got a used one, it was about 2cm longer.
In reply to Streetwiseguy :
I didn't think of that.
Original axle had catastrophic demanufacturing of the inner joint due to ocer extension. So not sure how to compare lengths. Ideas?
So, i beat the old cv back together with a 3lb hammer, and compared to new. New is about 1/2 shorter overall. Is that enough to make a difference?
Check for broken motor mounts; that did similar damage to a Dodge Caravan my parents owned. Chances are it will be ok with the new axle and seal, and if not you haven't lost much trying to save it. I suspect the old cv joints have a little stretch to them.
Fun fact - the 2008 Mazda5 has a 5 speed automatic. Parts houses somehow believe that they have the 06-07 4 speed automatic. The transmissions are similar, but have substantial differences, including I suspect the CV axles. I had to order parts for a 2009 to ensure I got the right stuff.
In reply to Javelin :
Ill need to look into that.
Do you know what the difference in axles is?
Shorter axle - oopsie
Back to the parts store for the correct axle.
Given that, I had a circle track Neon that I had to chain the motor to the inside to keep the G's from pushing the motor over against the outside frame.
Using a steering quickener is great until the power steering pulley gets rubbed off on what identifies as a frame!
Good news: trans, after 6.5 quarts of fluid, a filter, a magnet, and an axle seal shifts fine.
Oriellys only had one part number of axle listed, and said it was installer error.
4.2 miles, reinserted on the side of rhe road from where it popped out again. And i know that motherberkeleyer was seated, as i did so with a 3lb hammer and 2x4.
Its a bad axle. Gotta be. Or wrong part. Or both.
Wonder if advance axles are better?
i've had decent luck with the axles sold by Advance. Lemme look for a pic of the packaging.
EDIT: CarQuest brand, 2010 Odyssey, one has 100k on it, the other was replaced under lifetime warranty when inner CV came apart at about 70k. In defense of that CV, I suspect it was damaged in a crash at about 50k.
This happened to me over and over on an old 5 speed Sentra I had- actually my first car. We finally figured out the FLAPS axle was too short. Bought a longer one and it never happened again.
Dusterbd13-michael said:
Oriellys only had one part number of axle listed, and said it was installer error.
That's weird, the website looks like it shows three different part numbers? MZ8158 @ 24 11/16", Mz8252 @ 24 7/8", and MZ8152 @ 25 1/16". Which part number did they give you?
Just looking at the parts catalog on Partsouq, it shows 2 different shafts for the '07 year and a 3rd for the '08, but doesn't specify the differences.
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Mazda&ssd=%24%2AKwHR5fSdsoS2tNS0oIr5x4mdvbqk1drX1sTXx4eHpbPSnIOV-sHWio6DiKPT19eLytuGgYuLo9DQ1or16Z2VjNaj0NHSAAAAAPE9nRY%3D%24&vid=1406823447&cid=871&uid=5253&q=
If you still have the OE axle, is it worth rebuilding with new CVs? It's what I ended up doing on my 3 to avoid issues.
In reply to paul_s0 :
Unfortunately old one is gone.
Iansane: i should have been more specific. One part number for the 06-09 models, wi th no transmission difference.
We ordered the other two shafts this afternoon, and will compare against what i was sold initially. Seems like the "manual transmission " is the longest, which is likely what i need.
Ill get the thing torn down again tonight. I have to say that the quickjack is earning its keep right now.
