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Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
3/30/16 4:40 p.m.
Stefan (Not Bruce) wrote: The Shelby GLH-S had their ECU's tuned to reduce boost targets at lower vehicle speed to save the weak transaxles they were stuck with. The same engine package in one of the larger cars had a much more wide power curve. Oddly, this led to the GLH-S being a bit more exciting to drive since the boost came on so much stronger at higher speeds.

Everyone does this. Look at the Mazdaspeed3s that don't give you full boost unless you're in 4th gear or higher. And it cuts power if the steering wheel is turned.

Same engine, Mazdaspeed6, so heavier chassis with all whee drive, engine is turned to just beyond the capability of the fuel pump. Looking at "tuner" dyno plots vs. stock is funny, the curves are exactly the same. Good tunes turn down the boost at low RPM to keep the engine happy...

SVreX
SVreX MegaDork
3/30/16 5:06 p.m.

First generation El Caminos were built on wagon pans. They did not eliminate the rear footwells, but covered them with a piece of corrugated steel in the bed. There were no gaskets or seals for this plate, so there was a compartment under the bed approximately 2' wide, 5' long, and 12" deep perfect for making a concealed swimming pool, which later led to automated weight reduction as the pans rusted and dropped out the bottom of the car. Most early Elkys have a hole in the pan large enough for an average adult male to crawl through.

Furious_E
Furious_E GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
3/30/16 5:15 p.m.
Cousin_Eddie wrote:
Bingo, I always do the 1-2 shift at 2500-3000 rpm minimum to avoid the skip shift nonsense, rather than short shifting at <2k like the lazy torque monster would prefer. Not a big deal once you adjust your driving habits to it, but still stupid. The one time it really, really bugs me though is in auto x when you have a course that's tight right out of the start gate and want to short shift to 2nd ASAP. Stupid thing cost me a position at one race last year
Have you considered eliminating the skip shift ? You can DIY the job for under 10 bucks or buy a commercially made one that plugs right in for under 30. It's just a little electrical hack to do away with it.

Yes, I'm well aware of both the options you mention. I keep telling myself "one day" I'll put a cam in it and get it tuned and have the skip shift eliminated in the tune. We'll see if that day ever actually comes lol. Until then, it really doesn't bug me enough to spend even the measly ten bucks to DIY it. The above mentioned scenario is the only time it really becomes obtrusive.

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