BMW E46 330; what do I need to know?

I'm pretty sure this is the next ride. I'm looking at manual cars 2000-2003 vintage with around 200000km/120000m on them. I'd prefer the sedan.

What do I need to know? What are known problem areas? What should make me run screaming? Car will be used for daily driving and occasional track day use. Mods would be handling based; suspension, brakes, bushings, and rubber.

Thanks,

Jeff

Not much if you are already planning to replace the rubber suspension bits - good stout cars with the same cooling maintenance requirements as the E36.

• Radiator / pump / t-stat around 90k
• Window regulators - one will go wonky guaranteed
• The air pump or valve will fail eventually
• The power mirrors will stop working because a wire in the crush zone where the door opens/closes will need to be re-attached

If you get an iX, check the axle boots up front - if cracked budget an extra $200 for new axles. Easy job. Call Raxles in FL. Great to deal with and great prices.

I've had two e46s, one a 325iT and my current DD, a 330i ZHP. Love them both. Great cars, comfortable, quick and adept handling. GPS covered the important stuff above. I'd only add the recommendation of a PPI. Always helps to have a trained eye give a possible purchase the once over.

Here is my current DD:

In reply to dyintorace:

That looks damn sexy with those wheels.

I think I need to hold out for a red one, that looks fantastic.

I am also shopping these currently; looking at an '05 325ci today funny enough. I would add that '99-00 models are best avoided as they had rear subframe tearing issues (much like the E36 and Z3). The problem was rectified for the 2001 and newer model years.

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: In reply to dyintorace: That looks damn sexy with those wheels.

Thanks! They are replicas but I really wanted the M3 CSL-style, especially after seeing a photo of a red ZHP with them. It's not the flashiest wheel out there, but looks perfect to my eye.

In addition to the above, the CCV system will very likely have failed by the time a car has gotten to that sort of mileage. If you live in a cold climate, this can be very bad, as one of the failure modes results in sucking large volumes of oil directly out of the pan into the intake, and thus into the cylinders. It's under $200 in parts to replace the valve and all the associated hoses (just snap the old ones when removing - much easier than trying to undo the connectors), but it is a slightly annoying job.

The VANOS seals will also be leaking, possibly resulting in an oscillating idle during warm-up in colder temps, but definitely resulting in a loss of power at the top end. Beisan sells a kit with seals made of an improved material and offers excellent instructions. You do not want to know what a replacement unit costs (BMW does not offer seals).