BMW rod bearings: What is the real story here?

In reply to Slippery :

Yea your right 2003 im in Toronto Canada get wholesale price on bmw parts so I will just go oem. You think the BE bearing will last longer? 

In reply to Slippery :

As for my rod bolts do I need to put engine oil on it, fastener assembly lube or dry? 

In reply to Tigm3 :

I used engine oil. 

Tigm3 said:

In reply to Slippery :

Yea your right 2003 im in Toronto Canada get wholesale price on bmw parts so I will just go oem. You think the BE bearing will last longer? 

I used OEM last time at 100k miles, I keep reading the BE ones are a better option. I am trying those this time (already got them) and debating whether to go with OEM or ARP bolts, might do ARP. 

In reply to Slippery :

cool

In reply to Slippery :

In my experience oem is better if you can why not 

In reply to Tigm3 :

That sentiment definitely does not apply to these scenario. The OEM bearings and rod bolts are inferior to the aftermarket alternatives.

Tigm3 said:

In reply to Slippery :

As for my rod bolts do I need to put engine oil on it, fastener assembly lube or dry? 

When I use ARP stuff I always use their ultra torque lubricant. I might have ran out a time or two and used oil. Wether it made a difference I dont know.

Tigm3 said:

In reply to Slippery :

In my experience oem is better if you can why not 

In many cases, that's true, but not always.  Sometimes there's a known weak point in the OEM part and one of the aftermarket suppliers comes up with an improved version. 

Opti said:

Tigm3 said:

In reply to Slippery :

As for my rod bolts do I need to put engine oil on it, fastener assembly lube or dry? 

When I use ARP stuff I always use their ultra torque lubricant. I might have ran out a time or two and used oil. Wether it made a difference I dont know.

ARP did some weird stuff with their lubricant.  It is moly based (as far as I can tell) but, I am told, they changed the formula a little ways back to include something that increases friction by mechanical locking.  So it is like 1000 grit moly grease.

When in doubt, follow the directions with respect to lubricant and torque, and they seem to work out just fine.

Has anyone put aftermarket bearings ACL , BE or any other aftermarket brand of bearings and lasted longer? 

I visited the bmw dealer today to confirm my bolts are the re-usable ones also checked the price of the bearings $777 after tax with my discount. Im thinking of going ACL bearings debating wether i should get the extra clearance or the standard ones, what are the diffrences ? any thoughts???

In reply to Tigm3 :

Call Bimmerworld and buy the BE bearings. 

In reply to Slippery :

thank you 

Also, I think you are in Canada, so those $777 are probably Canadian dollars, but they are $500 from Tischer BMW and $475 from The BMW MINI Store

Tischer BMW

https://www.genuinebmwminiparts.com

PN 11 247 835 439 x6

PN 11 247 835 440 x6

In reply to Slippery :

yes Toronto canada 

In reply to Slippery :

If you convert it to CAD its practically the same for the oem bmw you provided. Found the be bearings to be $400 usd shipping to me is cheaper than bimmerworld $33 vs $55

In reply to Slippery :

Im going to get the BE clivite bearings as you recommended, plus arp bolts found out rod bearing recall was done 100k ago probably they re-used the rod bolts.

Off topic here I am going to purchase a 4 point rear brace for my e46 m3 I need help deciding between 2 versions of it. I would like to purchase the most robust one pout of the 2 constructions/ types. If you guys can give me advice thanks .

Looks like the red/purple one would allow less flex overall since it has better triangulation.

Many years ago I'd considered custom-building a rear strut brace something like that for my AE92 but I'd never seen anyone do anything like it...until now.

Edit: Heyyy also another GTA GRMer...there are like 7 of us on here now

Tigm3 said:

Off topic here I am going to purchase a 4 point rear brace for my e46 m3 I need help deciding between 2 versions of it. I would like to purchase the most robust one pout of the 2 constructions/ types. If you guys can give me advice thanks

What's the use case? My previous research (years ago) was the only fix was to weld in reinforcement plates/repair cracks. That would fix it 100%, no need for a brace. And that a brace was really unnecessary once the weldin reinforcements were completed unless it's a full on Hoosier out slicks racecar (which you would tie into your cage).

In reply to Olemiss540 :

Even with the rear plates that are welded the chassis is still susceptible to cracking this 4 point brace prevents flex from occurring at all 4 point of the rear sub frame bolting points. Especially knowing that the flex occurs in a left rear and front right movement/ flex,  hence why those bolting points have the worst cracks.  

In reply to GameboyRMH :

Thats right Gta. Check out there webpage they are custom built in germany  https://yurkancages.com/

Can you use the rear seat with those? I would go with the Vincebar and be done. 

In reply to Slippery :

They have other 4 point braces that allows your rear seats to remain intact. As for me I have no need for the rear seats. The vincebar option does not cover all 4 bolting points on the e46 m3 which is crucial for this chassis.