Bolt thread restoration?

I am looking for something like a die that is split in 1/2. That way I can put it over the good portion of the threads and run it over the bad section.

Any know of anything like this?

I've seen those 2 half type but not in a long time. Just use a real die the type with the split and a set screw in the side to adjust the thread depth. or use a thread file.

I always just run the die over the threads, it won't damage the good threads.

44Dwarf wrote: I've seen those 2 half type but not in a long time. Just use a real die the type with the split and a set screw in the side to adjust the thread depth. or use a thread file.

A thread file would be fine for cleaning threads, not repairing them, at least in my experiences with the file. I guess I'll have to search a see if I can find info on what you are reffering to as a "real die".

iceracer wrote: I always just run the die over the threads, it won't damage the good threads.

That's what I want to do, start on the good threads near the top and rethread on the way down, repairng the threads on the end of the bolt.

Get a standard die, use a dremel with abrasive disk to cut notches, use a chisel to split it, dress the split edges, use a vise to lightly hold the split pieces onto the bolt on the good threads at the top, use a wrench or rachet to unscrew the bolt past the damaged threads.

Carter

erohslc wrote: Get a standard die, use a dremel with abrasive disk to cut notches, use a chisel to split it, dress the split edges, use a vise to lightly hold the split pieces onto the bolt on the good threads at the top, use a wrench or rachet to unscrew the bolt past the damaged threads. Carter

This man is wise.

There are wheel bolt thread restorers that are split dies. That way you can assemble it on near the drum (disc), and back it off, restoring the end of the stud. They're not cheap, but a good mechanic may have a set you can borrow (or pay for his services, tools and knowledge).

erohslc wrote: Get a standard die, use a dremel with abrasive disk to cut notches, use a chisel to split it, dress the split edges, use a vise to lightly hold the split pieces onto the bolt on the good threads at the top, use a wrench or rachet to unscrew the bolt past the damaged threads. Carter

Why? Why not just use a normal die.

I don't think I get the question. Surely there must be some reason to complicate this that I'm not getting.

I just take a regular die and carefully start it on the buggered end threads and run it down. Works every time for me.

I'm thinking that the only threads good enough to start the die straight are at the head end of the bolt, not at the free end.

You just need to look around, all my old taps and dies are split two-piece ones. Only relatively recently in the tap and die world are they all the hex-shaped ones.

If you want to swing for a good set, check out item #8335A21 at McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) for a set of exactly what you are looking for.

Why not use a normal die? To quote 'db', the OP: That way I can put it over the good portion of the threads and run it over the bad section.... That's what I want to do, start on the good threads near the top and rethread on the way down, repairng the threads on the end of the bolt. IOW, the threads on the end are buggered. A split die allows you to start where the threads are good, and then rotate it down to the buggered threads while maintaining perfect alignment needed to 'repair' them.

Carter

I've never NOT been able to use a regular die. Now, I have a good set of Snap-On dies that have the set screw so you can adjust the depth. If the bolt/stud is THAT buggard up that a good die won't start (again, I've NEVER seen this) then I don't want ot use that mangled hunk of hardware.

AngryCorvair wrote: I'm thinking that the only threads good enough to start the die straight are at the head end of the bolt, not at the free end.

Gotcha. That makes sense. I didn't get that from the original post.

Sorry about the confusion.

The "bolt" in question is actually the threads on a non-replacable ball joint (ie: have to replace the whole a-arm).

Because of this is the reason I need to put the die in a holder, so I can fix it with the arm still on the car.

I finally found a regular die (12x1.25) so I'll give that a go since the car needs to be drivable soon.

I'll check the links mentioned and if they are what I'm looking for, I'll put them on the tools to get list.

great!

split dies are show about 1/2 way down http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_and_die

db wrote: Sorry about the confusion. The "bolt" in question is actually the threads on a non-replacable ball joint (ie: have to replace the whole a-arm).

i learned a similar lesson years ago. the secret is to leave the nut on the ball joint stud when you're pounding the crap out of the surroundings with the BFH.

db wrote: Sorry about the confusion. The "bolt" in question is actually the threads on a non-replacable ball joint (ie: have to replace the whole a-arm).

Hazarding a guess: E30?

AngryCorvair wrote:

db wrote: Sorry about the confusion. The "bolt" in question is actually the threads on a non-replacable ball joint (ie: have to replace the whole a-arm).

i learned a similar lesson years ago. the secret is to leave the nut on the ball joint stud when you're pounding the crap out of the surroundings with the BFH.

That works just fine until you smack the nut and bend it.

That happened to me at the junkyard a few weeks ago. The balljoint popped loose but then I couldn't get the nut off of it. Lying on my back in the gravel, I ended up using jacks, rims, sacrificed chickens and swearwords to jack the control arm up to re-wedge the ball joint into the spindle. Then I finally got the nut the rest of the way off . And with a final triumphant smack of a BFH, the spindle was free.

After that is when I discovered that the bolt holding the control arm to the frame was permanently corroded to the no-longer-bonded metal sleeve in the control arm bushing and wouldn't come out...

mel_horn wrote: i learned a similar lesson years ago. the secret is to leave the nut on the ball joint stud when you're pounding the crap out of the surroundings with the BFH. Hazarding a guess: E30?

The nut was on the bolt, not fully threaded on though, only about 1/2 way, and it was a castle nut. I'm guessing it's like what Cory said, bent nut. This actually happened on both sides of the car. The end threads were fine on the passanger side so I wsa able to easily get the tap started.

I have since learned the trick is to smack the knuckle where the ball joint goes through.

This happened on a Miata. We were swapping the suspension between her "old" one and "new" one. The "old" one came apart just fine.

The secret to minimal damage ball joint removal with a BFH (Big Freakin' Hammer) or FOIG (Field Operated Impact Generator): use 2 BFH's or FOIGs. Place one against the knuckle with the offending hole (make sure there is a nut on the stud in the event of poor aim) then smack the bejezus out of the other side with another FOIG. If the FOIGs are different sizes, place the bigger one against the knuckle and smack with the smaller one.

I know this post is a bit old, but in case anyone is still interested, take a look at www.murraycorp.com/index.pl/muuray_tools2 and see a split die. The idea is that the end of your stud is where you're likely to get damaged, and this split die can be pulled apart and put on the undamaged threads then chased with a socket.

In reply to tech: sorry, that's www.murraycorp.com/index.pl/murray_tools2 (misspelled)