Had a customer at the Buick dealer who constantly complained that the 4T60E in his Park Avenue did not shift right. Wasn't a damn thing wrong with it, it just didn't shift like his old car did. He must have come in a dozen times demanding a new transmission. The service manager finally got sick of it; between he and I it definitely grew a few problems! 
Bad part: the new one shifted just like the old one. 
I think he finally traded it for an Oldsmobile.
has anyone contemplated the word "warped" yet? warped implies a change in shape (from flat to something-other-than-flat), not a change in thickness.
Running outta idears..
TC may have lateral rotor runout which could act like it's warped and pulse through the pedal, rust or debris on the hub face may prevent even a new rotor from seating parallel to the hub. Check rotor runout w/ dial indicator, rotor torqued evenly to hub. As to the uneven pad wear front to rear, the caliper bracket may be bent. There was a lotta talk on GM forums of brackets flexing.
Also a hard spot on rotor from overheating may cause the pulsing, this happened to me w/ a F-150
non vented rotors i have seen warp. never have i seen a vented rotor warp. extremely uneven wear and thickness variation but in order for a rotor to warp it will also affect the hub of the rotor. and a rotor warped 10 thousands would require atleast 11 thousands perside taken out.. and remember a warped rotor when turned will display the exact oposit warping on the other side. which is rarely the case. normally uneven wear plus pad buildup is the cause. i wont say its not possible just that ive never seen it. including having heated the rotors on your f150 to the point of glowing once when trailer brakes failed on the way in laramie with a 12000 lbs trailer behind us. those poor brembos. absolutly killed them. burnt the paint off the wheels. melts the rubber boots on the ball joints. terrible!
AngryCorvair wrote: has anyone contemplated the word "warped" yet? warped implies a change in shape (from flat to something-other-than-flat), not a change in thickness.
KATYB wrote: melts the rubber boots on the ball joints.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's looking like this problem has about 37 different causes, all of which are more money than I want to spend on a car with 160K miles, a hammer hole in the front fender (so I have a temper, you wanna fight about it?!), a C-clamp holding the exhaust manifold to the downpipe on one side of the flange, and an oil consumption problem. Guess I'm just replacing left front rotors every few thousand miles. It's cheaper. And easier.
About melted ball joint boots: Jeep Libertys were designed with the lower ball joint done the wrong way. Brilliant design. Anyway, the rotor was very close to the ball joint, when the brakes got hot the boot would crack (more penny pinching) and water would get into the joint. They would then separate. Nice.
One common result, saw it more than a few times:
FWIW, Toyota Tundras did something very similar.
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