[Editor's note: This article originally appeared in the February 2013 issue.]
All car enthusiasts worth their salt can recognize the difference between a fuel-injected and a carbureted engine. Slightly wiser ones can identify throttle body injection, port injection and direct injection—as well as the merits of each piece of technology.
Even more esoteric knowledge concerns those round electronic devices themselves. …
That's a good read, I might try finding some later model 210's for my Probe. I've been trying to get the idle right and sharpen things up
This sounds promising. But just how can you tell what will fit what?
So the actual answer is- yes it will help IF you have a fuel problem already- too little or too much.
Before just changing injectors, see if you have a problem.
The only part of running that is much better with better atomization is the first 30-100 seconds. Once the injectors get hot enough, they are just injecting vapor, and the pattern is largely irrelevant.
Once the injectors get hot enough, they are just injecting vapor, and the pattern is largely irrelevant.
Please back up this statement.
noddaz said:Once the injectors get hot enough, they are just injecting vapor, and the pattern is largely irrelevant.
Please back up this statement.
Hm. Can't post the video I saw from about 15-20 years ago, as that was taken internally. But what was seen was seen was the designed pattern cold, a pencil spray as it warmed up, and then just vapor when it was hot. When the engine gets to operating temp, it's well above the boiling point of the fuel- and when you do an immediate reduction of pressure, that also contributes to the phenomenon.
Seems some indications that DI injectors do something similar, but there are no videos that show it.
If you don't believe it, no problem. But don't expect some magical change for peak power just because of the pattern change- unless there's already something very wrong. The improved patterns help for the cold region in many aspects, but not much for peak power.
Interesting that the 4 hole red top improved midrange power, but the old blue was far better below 2,500 RPM and slightly at high RPM. Perhaps that's more to do with tuning than the red injector's natural performance? While racing, that mid-range bump could be helpful coming off of turns for example, but the stock blue might feel better on the street if further tuning can't help the reds down low.
Regarding the hot vs. cold comment, the dyno chart IS with the engine at operating temp and it still shows a difference.
Interesting too that with the improved AFR of the reds, it's down on power slightly on the top end. Weird that a too-lean mixture made more power.
noddaz said:Once the injectors get hot enough, they are just injecting vapor, and the pattern is largely irrelevant.
Please back up this statement.
Gasoline's phase change is fairly low. Going from 60ish PSI to atmospheric when the engine temp is at operating temp is going to cause vaporization of a significant portion of the mass of the gasoline.
Depends entirely upon the volatility of the gasoline, so its hard to say how much will actually vaporize, but I'd generally agree with his statement.
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