suburban was a no go, the no start issue, while likely enough a simple fix, was not an obvious enough fix.
still on the hunt for a gmt800 vehicle
suburban was a no go, the no start issue, while likely enough a simple fix, was not an obvious enough fix.
still on the hunt for a gmt800 vehicle
In reply to TurboFocus :
Not a GM, but what about this? 
TurboFocus said:Curious on the price of those obx vehicles as a back up
Not sure the price or what his inventory looks like these days. He had 12 of them at one point but he's moving his rental fleet to Jeep Commanders. But give them a call or email
Current multiple GMT400 owner here, with multiple GMT800s having been in the family. I actually like the 5.7 in the GMT400s better for towing than the 5.3; the powerband just seems to be a bit stronger below 3000 rpm. But maybe it's just that the older trucks are a little lighter? Not sure. Fuel mileage has been comparable at least within my family. GMT800s have a few more electronic niggles in my experience, but they are a bit more comfortable and have much, much better brakes. Parts are easy to find for each, but GMT400s tend to be a bit cheaper and replacement stock parts are still common. Aftermarket can be hit or miss with both trucks depending on what you are trying to do with them.
Plus, manual swaps are more straightforward in the GMT400s and they can be made to be pretty fun if you need some bad ideas and another project 
Want to buy my 2000 Silverado? I'm not towing a trailer anymore. PM me if yes!
The 88-up TBI trucks sell for pennies, and parts are everywhere, but you'll be supremely disappointed with 190hp and 275tq. They excel at nothing except running forever. Good luck getting 13mpg empty and 9mpg towing anything. If I'm going to have an underpowered wheezer, I at least think it should get better than big-block-with-a-holley efficiency.
Vortec trucks are great (late 96-99). They do tend to have trouble with the spider injectors and intake manifold leaks, both of which are a super simple fix. There are lots of documented head cracking issues, but honestly not as big a deal as you might expect. Worst case scenario is that the aftermarket has replacement options that don't cost any more than factory heads, but they're cast with a thicker deck.
The boxy GMs (76-87) are a super-simple truck and a wonderful choice, but there is a pretty high demand for them, meaning you'll get less truck for your money.
If I were shopping for your application, I would strongly consider these (personally).
97-up F150 with the 4.6L. The 4.2L V6 gets bought up by people who are expecting more MPG, and the 5.4L gets bought by people who really need the big grunt. The 4.6L is left as kinda the forgotten middle child despite giving similar power and MPG numbers to the 4.2L. Normally, I would say either one, but the 4.2L can have intake leaks. The 4.6L is not overly powerful or efficient, but I can't think of anything but a mercedes diesel that lasts longer than those engines. They just GO. You can't kill them. Get the eariler version with the single coil pack (not coil-on-plug) and you'll be golden. COP trucks are fine, but it is nearly impossible to chase down which one is failing without an oscilloscope, and as soon as you replace one, the next weakest one will fail. Most owners just buy them all when one fails. Getting the earlier truck will avoid that. 5.4L is a fine option if you find it. You'll either get the earlier version where the spark plugs blow out because there aren't many threads in the head, or the later ones where you can't get the plug out because the nose seizes in the hole. Either one is a pretty simple fix, but avoiding that makes things a little more reliable in terms of repair and downtime if anything happens. I've had two of this generation F150; a 98 with the 4.6L and an 02 with the 5.4L. The 02 was the "heavy half" and had all the F250 driveline stuff shoved under an F150 body. I had the spark plug popping issue, but shops are so used to it that they can fix it better than stock in 30 minutes. I miss my 98. It was one of the best all around trucks I have ever owned. Things to look for: rust. The rest is gravy
OBS F150 with the 4.9L I-6 or the 302 V8. They are remarkably similar in power output and displacement and parts are SO plentiful. 351W is also a fine option since it's just a taller Windsor, but they come with a bit of a premium price tag. Things to look for: play or binding in the steering box. Many of those Saginaw boxes wore out quickly and owners would tighten the adjustment to leave less play in the middle, but a little binding at higher steering angles. I think 88-92 were the years of the EFI straight 6
up to 87 boxy Chevy. Great trucks, but as I said, they tend to be collectible in the blue-collar circles, so expect to pay more for a decent example. Things to look for: Rust, particularly on the cab mounts and hidden rust at the cab corners.
88-96 Chevy. Great trucks, but as I mentioned, the TBI sucks hardcore. It will burn oil (cheap valve seal design), suck fuel like a V10, and have every 18-wheeler around you ticked off that they have to pass YOU going up a mountain. I had an 88 (180hp 350) and a 93 (200hp 350). Both mistakes. Brilliant trucks until you try to tow more than about 3000 lbs. Things to look for: Something other than this truck unless you don't mind going really slow and getting terrible MPG.
late 96-99 Chevy. Now we're talking The hp jump with the Vortec heads didn't seem like much, but those intake ports do such a good job with allowing bulk flow with a small volume that torque jumped WAY up. Add to that the super-efficient chambers, they could really get decent power without sucking as much fuel. Things to look for: repair documentation, misfire (which could indicate head crack or spider injector failure) and rust.
LS Chevy. You might get lucky and find a decent example of a 4.8L or 5.3L truck in your price range. The nice thing about the LS trucks is that (not only are parts everywhere) the drivelines are pretty bulletproof much like the 4.6L Ford. I wouldn't hesitate to snag a higher-mileage version with some rust/dents. You can fix the cosmetics knowing the driveline is solid. Another solid option is the 4.3LV6 which was available in the cheaper trucks for quite some time. They are basically a traditional 350 with two cylinders cut off, so parts are a no-brainer. In fact, the 4.3L is still used today in boats which means parts are everywhere since it is still an engine that is in production. Things to look for: A higher mileage 4L60/65E is a pretty safe bet, but check shift quality and fluid condition. 4L60Es are pretty inexpensive to build and almost always have no actual parts damage outside of the occasional input drum crack.
I had an 07 4 x 4 F150 with the 4.6 for my work truck, drove it 180K myself. It needed one EGT sensor under warranty, otherwise it was drop dead reliable. At 180K the Bosses decided they needed another work truck for the kids to run parts in. We kept it until just shy of 300K, engine and transmission were never touched other than routine maintenance. Still got $1,500.00 bucks for it. It was in no way fast, I think those are in the 240 HP range in truck form and a 4 x 4 F 150 isn't particularly light. It was pretty decent on gas for a 4 x 4, it averaged 17 - 17.5 in mostly highway driving and would do 20 on a tank if it was an all highway run.
Dave M (Forum Supporter) said:Want to buy my 2000 Silverado? I'm not towing a trailer anymore. PM me if yes!
Dave M, just tried to PM you but it bounced back. If TurboFocus passes, I'm down in RVA and interested in hearing more about the chevy...
Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to TurboFocus :
Not a GM, but what about this?
if that was not already sold i wouldve sent a PM and done a fly and drive
buzzboy said:TurboFocus said:Curious on the price of those obx vehicles as a back up
Not sure the price or what his inventory looks like these days. He had 12 of them at one point but he's moving his rental fleet to Jeep Commanders. But give them a call or email
i will certainly send an email!
gearheadE30 said:Current multiple GMT400 owner here, with multiple GMT800s having been in the family. I actually like the 5.7 in the GMT400s better for towing than the 5.3; the powerband just seems to be a bit stronger below 3000 rpm. But maybe it's just that the older trucks are a little lighter? Not sure. Fuel mileage has been comparable at least within my family. GMT800s have a few more electronic niggles in my experience, but they are a bit more comfortable and have much, much better brakes. Parts are easy to find for each, but GMT400s tend to be a bit cheaper and replacement stock parts are still common. Aftermarket can be hit or miss with both trucks depending on what you are trying to do with them.
Plus, manual swaps are more straightforward in the GMT400s and they can be made to be pretty fun if you need some bad ideas and another project
I am super interested in your take on this since youve literally been there and done that. I do like the idea of having better brakes however, if 400 and 800 part availability is relatively the same then i do not care which one I get since the 400s are cheaper to run and maintain per your experiences. am i understanding this correctly.
Dave M (Forum Supporter) said:Want to buy my 2000 Silverado? I'm not towing a trailer anymore. PM me if yes!
I dont know how to PM on this site, i was trying to get a guy to bring my car from west coast to east coast but I never heard back. not sure if its my fault or not.
whats the price tag youre thinking of? I hear the GRM community is usually very good when it comes to selling vehicles.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:The 88-up TBI trucks sell for pennies, and parts are everywhere, but you'll be supremely disappointed with 190hp and 275tq. They excel at nothing except running forever. Good luck getting 13mpg empty and 9mpg towing anything. If I'm going to have an underpowered wheezer, I at least think it should get better than big-block-with-a-holley efficiency.
Vortec trucks are great (late 96-99). They do tend to have trouble with the spider injectors and intake manifold leaks, both of which are a super simple fix. There are lots of documented head cracking issues, but honestly not as big a deal as you might expect. Worst case scenario is that the aftermarket has replacement options that don't cost any more than factory heads, but they're cast with a thicker deck.
The boxy GMs (76-87) are a super-simple truck and a wonderful choice, but there is a pretty high demand for them, meaning you'll get less truck for your money.
If I were shopping for your application, I would strongly consider these (personally).
97-up F150 with the 4.6L. The 4.2L V6 gets bought up by people who are expecting more MPG, and the 5.4L gets bought by people who really need the big grunt. The 4.6L is left as kinda the forgotten middle child despite giving similar power and MPG numbers to the 4.2L. Normally, I would say either one, but the 4.2L can have intake leaks. The 4.6L is not overly powerful or efficient, but I can't think of anything but a mercedes diesel that lasts longer than those engines. They just GO. You can't kill them. Get the eariler version with the single coil pack (not coil-on-plug) and you'll be golden. COP trucks are fine, but it is nearly impossible to chase down which one is failing without an oscilloscope, and as soon as you replace one, the next weakest one will fail. Most owners just buy them all when one fails. Getting the earlier truck will avoid that. 5.4L is a fine option if you find it. You'll either get the earlier version where the spark plugs blow out because there aren't many threads in the head, or the later ones where you can't get the plug out because the nose seizes in the hole. Either one is a pretty simple fix, but avoiding that makes things a little more reliable in terms of repair and downtime if anything happens. I've had two of this generation F150; a 98 with the 4.6L and an 02 with the 5.4L. The 02 was the "heavy half" and had all the F250 driveline stuff shoved under an F150 body. I had the spark plug popping issue, but shops are so used to it that they can fix it better than stock in 30 minutes. I miss my 98. It was one of the best all around trucks I have ever owned. Things to look for: rust. The rest is gravy
OBS F150 with the 4.9L I-6 or the 302 V8. They are remarkably similar in power output and displacement and parts are SO plentiful. 351W is also a fine option since it's just a taller Windsor, but they come with a bit of a premium price tag. Things to look for: play or binding in the steering box. Many of those Saginaw boxes wore out quickly and owners would tighten the adjustment to leave less play in the middle, but a little binding at higher steering angles. I think 88-92 were the years of the EFI straight 6
up to 87 boxy Chevy. Great trucks, but as I said, they tend to be collectible in the blue-collar circles, so expect to pay more for a decent example. Things to look for: Rust, particularly on the cab mounts and hidden rust at the cab corners.
88-96 Chevy. Great trucks, but as I mentioned, the TBI sucks hardcore. It will burn oil (cheap valve seal design), suck fuel like a V10, and have every 18-wheeler around you ticked off that they have to pass YOU going up a mountain. I had an 88 (180hp 350) and a 93 (200hp 350). Both mistakes. Brilliant trucks until you try to tow more than about 3000 lbs. Things to look for: Something other than this truck unless you don't mind going really slow and getting terrible MPG.
late 96-99 Chevy. Now we're talking The hp jump with the Vortec heads didn't seem like much, but those intake ports do such a good job with allowing bulk flow with a small volume that torque jumped WAY up. Add to that the super-efficient chambers, they could really get decent power without sucking as much fuel. Things to look for: repair documentation, misfire (which could indicate head crack or spider injector failure) and rust.
LS Chevy. You might get lucky and find a decent example of a 4.8L or 5.3L truck in your price range. The nice thing about the LS trucks is that (not only are parts everywhere) the drivelines are pretty bulletproof much like the 4.6L Ford. I wouldn't hesitate to snag a higher-mileage version with some rust/dents. You can fix the cosmetics knowing the driveline is solid. Another solid option is the 4.3LV6 which was available in the cheaper trucks for quite some time. They are basically a traditional 350 with two cylinders cut off, so parts are a no-brainer. In fact, the 4.3L is still used today in boats which means parts are everywhere since it is still an engine that is in production. Things to look for: A higher mileage 4L60/65E is a pretty safe bet, but check shift quality and fluid condition. 4L60Es are pretty inexpensive to build and almost always have no actual parts damage outside of the occasional input drum crack.
my man, you always seem to be the truck expert and have yet to lead me astray. Towing for now wont be bad, tow dolly and sub 2 ton vehicles, but in the future I wouldnt put it past myself to get a 20-ish ft long trailer (enclosed if its the right price) and a full size classic car with tools, tires and some spare stuff. Essentially, I want to get into drag racing and as the vehicle gets faster, so will the need/want to tow to and from the track.
cursory google searches show that some of those ford dont always have the rated capacity to tow the loads im expecting (realistically ~7k pounds) but I dont know a ton about towing since all ive done is a few uhaul tow dolly runs. With a brand new truck, its pretty easy.
It sounds like the obs ford, 97+ coil pack fords, and 96+ chevys (LS is my current hunt) are the ones to really look for. knowing a little more information, is there any further recommendations to hone in on?
11GTCS said:I had an 07 4 x 4 F150 with the 4.6 for my work truck, drove it 180K myself. It needed one EGT sensor under warranty, otherwise it was drop dead reliable. At 180K the Bosses decided they needed another work truck for the kids to run parts in. We kept it until just shy of 300K, engine and transmission were never touched other than routine maintenance. Still got $1,500.00 bucks for it. It was in no way fast, I think those are in the 240 HP range in truck form and a 4 x 4 F 150 isn't particularly light. It was pretty decent on gas for a 4 x 4, it averaged 17 - 17.5 in mostly highway driving and would do 20 on a tank if it was an all highway run.
those 4.6's, every time i knew someone who had'em, never seemed to ever have any work done to them. It seemed like earlier in the thread, chevy was the way to go, hence my chevy searches on facebook
In reply to johndej :
i definately am interested but based mostly on price. im a trash panda, what can i say?
Curtis is definitely right about the TBI chevy valve seals. Mine smokes like a chimney on startup, but uses virtually no oil otherwise.
I towed a youhaul with my miata about 1200 miles over a four day weekend recently, running 70-75 MPH with the AC running, and used less than half a quart.
On the other hand, it's a 400,000 mile engine, so I've got no complaints.
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:Curtis is definitely right about the TBI chevy valve seals. Mine smokes like a chimney on startup, but uses virtually no oil otherwise.
I towed a youhaul with my miata about 1200 miles over a four day weekend recently, running 70-75 MPH with the AC running, and used less than half a quart.
On the other hand, it's a 400,000 mile engine, so I've got no complaints.
lmao, that sounded horrible at first but after reading the mileage it sounds pretty good actually. I assume it isnt your daily driver eating oil like that?
In reply to TurboFocus :
Hey, I tried to email you back and communicate in the other thread- I got your PM about your car in Tucson but apparently you're not seeing my return messages. Email me at cnonack on the gmails thingy, let's discuss! Alternatively, check your spam folder on the master mask 2 email address the forum apparently has you listed as.
If you are serious about getting an enclosed trailer, you may want to change up your search to a 3/4 ton truck. Unless you don't mind experimenting with a half ton, then upgrading later.
John Welsh (Moderate Supporter) said:Ford 300 straight 6 w/ 5 speed manual have a reputation of being undestructable
I'm surprised the Ford 300 I6 hasn't been mentioned more...
Around 15 or so years ago when DSM's were more plentiful but really dropping in value, I had a buddy who pretty much made his living buying broken ones and either flipping them for a quick few bucks, fixing them and selling them for a lot more, or occasionally parting them out. He eventually picked up a super high mile plain jane 300/Auto/RWD/Longbed/single cab 92-96 F150 somewhere in the $1000-1500 range and I think it spent the majority of his time driving it with a flatbed trailer either empty or with a DSM on it. The thing towed dozens of them and never struggled or skipped a beat. IIRC, what started to become an issue was frame rust around the rear leafs, but by that time, he'd made enough money in the DSM game to get himself a nice 7.3 Crew Cab Dually SuperDuty.
For cheap towing, an EFI 300 I6 equipped Ford would be at the top of my list.
TurboFocus said:Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:Curtis is definitely right about the TBI chevy valve seals. Mine smokes like a chimney on startup, but uses virtually no oil otherwise.
I towed a youhaul with my miata about 1200 miles over a four day weekend recently, running 70-75 MPH with the AC running, and used less than half a quart.
On the other hand, it's a 400,000 mile engine, so I've got no complaints.
lmao, that sounded horrible at first but after reading the mileage it sounds pretty good actually. I assume it isnt your daily driver eating oil like that?
My first GMT400 was a TBI 350 with the NV3500 5 speed manual behind it. That one had about 170k miles on it and I had the same experience with the valve seals. The older engines had a much less positive valve guide seal on them that was meant to help lubricate the valve guide, and it seems like they tend to wear. Oil leaks past the stems when the engine is sitting so you get this big puff of smoke on startup with no real oil consumption otherwise. The TBI engines are definitely not strong compared to the later Vortecs and definitely feel like they are from an older era of engines, much like my limited experience with a Ford with that 300 six in it, but they are durable and get the job done.
@turbofocus yes your take is right, GMT800 has better brakes (and the 4l60 has tow haul mode on those, which requires an ECM swap to get on the GMT400 even though its the same transmission) but the GMT400s are a bit cheaper to maintain and are a bit more truck-like. I had forgotten about the tow haul mode until just now; it actually makes a big difference in both the driving experience and the durability of the transmission, where in the GMT400 you have to pay a bit of attention to making sure the transmission isn't hunting. I always tow in 3rd with my GMT400s, which means I actually like the trucks with a little longer gearing (3.42 vs 3.73) because 70ish mph is like 2600 rpm once the converter locks up vs over 3000 if you have the shorter gear set and it's a bit better for mileage and feels a bit less stressed.
Someone mentioned enclosed trailer. If that's a consideration... I would also recommend a 2500 if it's a chevy from this era because that means you get a better axle, you can get the 6.0 LS in the GMT800 or the 454 with the GMT400, and both generations step up to the more durable 4L80e transmission. Enclosed trailers just work the driveline a lot harder because of the drag. Mileage will suffer compared to a 1500 if you're running unloaded, but it doesn't sound like the intent is for this to be a daily driver so that may not matter much.
Every one of our TBI's got fel-pro umbrella type valve stem seals. Never smoked again on any of them. Dad's 91 9C1 he sold with around 350k miles still didn't smoke on startup. We put them in around 150k miles. That sucked.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:In reply to TurboFocus :
Hey, I tried to email you back and communicate in the other thread- I got your PM about your car in Tucson but apparently you're not seeing my return messages. Email me at cnonack on the gmails thingy, let's discuss! Alternatively, check your spam folder on the master mask 2 email address the forum apparently has you listed as.
I use that email almost exclusively for spam, that was probably my issue. Ill send you an email from my normal email lol
eastsideTim said:If you are serious about getting an enclosed trailer, you may want to change up your search to a 3/4 ton truck. Unless you don't mind experimenting with a half ton, then upgrading later.
enclosed trailer would be far far in the future, as of now a normal trailer is still in the future. I just cant see future me living without a trailer.
shelbyz said:John Welsh (Moderate Supporter) said:Ford 300 straight 6 w/ 5 speed manual have a reputation of being undestructable
I'm surprised the Ford 300 I6 hasn't been mentioned more...
Around 15 or so years ago when DSM's were more plentiful but really dropping in value, I had a buddy who pretty much made his living buying broken ones and either flipping them for a quick few bucks, fixing them and selling them for a lot more, or occasionally parting them out. He eventually picked up a super high mile plain jane 300/Auto/RWD/Longbed/single cab 92-96 F150 somewhere in the $1000-1500 range and I think it spent the majority of his time driving it with a flatbed either empty or with a DSM on it. The thing towed dozens of them and never struggled or skipped a beat. IIRC, what started to become an issue was frame rust around the rear leafs, but by that time, he'd made enough money in the DSM game to get himself a nice 7.3 Crew Cab Dually SuperDuty.
For cheap towing, an EFI 300 I6 equipped Ford would be at the top of my list.
I thought about those but I assumed that they would be similar to my current truck. Brakes may not be up to tow dut. The engine, while barely capable, may not be up to a 1-1.5hr drive to the track and back consistently; when I got really into auto-x I was doing it 2-4x a month depending if highschool me could afford to fix my car or not and I don't think much has changed since then.
I have time to wait it out and find the diamond in the rough but if push ever came to shove, I'll add this to the list of things to look at.
gearheadE30 said:TurboFocus said:Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:Curtis is definitely right about the TBI chevy valve seals. Mine smokes like a chimney on startup, but uses virtually no oil otherwise.
I towed a youhaul with my miata about 1200 miles over a four day weekend recently, running 70-75 MPH with the AC running, and used less than half a quart.
On the other hand, it's a 400,000 mile engine, so I've got no complaints.
lmao, that sounded horrible at first but after reading the mileage it sounds pretty good actually. I assume it isnt your daily driver eating oil like that?
My first GMT400 was a TBI 350 with the NV3500 5 speed manual behind it. That one had about 170k miles on it and I had the same experience with the valve seals. The older engines had a much less positive valve guide seal on them that was meant to help lubricate the valve guide, and it seems like they tend to wear. Oil leaks past the stems when the engine is sitting so you get this big puff of smoke on startup with no real oil consumption otherwise. The TBI engines are definitely not strong compared to the later Vortecs and definitely feel like they are from an older era of engines, much like my limited experience with a Ford with that 300 six in it, but they are durable and get the job done.
@turbofocus yes your take is right, GMT800 has better brakes (and the 4l60 has tow haul mode on those, which requires an ECM swap to get on the GMT400 even though its the same transmission) but the GMT400s are a bit cheaper to maintain and are a bit more truck-like. I had forgotten about the tow haul mode until just now; it actually makes a big difference in both the driving experience and the durability of the transmission, where in the GMT400 you have to pay a bit of attention to making sure the transmission isn't hunting. I always tow in 3rd with my GMT400s, which means I actually like the trucks with a little longer gearing (3.42 vs 3.73) because 70ish mph is like 2600 rpm once the converter locks up vs over 3000 if you have the shorter gear set and it's a bit better for mileage and feels a bit less stressed.
Someone mentioned enclosed trailer. If that's a consideration... I would also recommend a 2500 if it's a chevy from this era because that means you get a better axle, you can get the 6.0 LS in the GMT800 or the 454 with the GMT400, and both generations step up to the more durable 4L80e transmission. Enclosed trailers just work the driveline a lot harder because of the drag. Mileage will suffer compared to a 1500 if you're running unloaded, but it doesn't sound like the intent is for this to be a daily driver so that may not matter much.
These first hand expiriences are warming me up to the GMT400 life, but I don't think Id want the TBI motors from the issues they present, I'd much rather deal with a vortec engine and get the power from them as well.
Out of a pure price point, a 1500 would fit my needs much better at the moment. As mentioned earlier in this response to someone else, an enclosed trailer would likely be much farther in the future. An enclosed trailer would be a luxury rather than a need or even a "want."
All this said, there is a strong chance I'm gonna buy Dave M's truck.
Update, Dave's truck is essentially sold!
Gmt800 at a more than fair price, some days GRM really is the best.
TurboFocus said:Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:Curtis is definitely right about the TBI chevy valve seals. Mine smokes like a chimney on startup, but uses virtually no oil otherwise.
I towed a youhaul with my miata about 1200 miles over a four day weekend recently, running 70-75 MPH with the AC running, and used less than half a quart.
On the other hand, it's a 400,000 mile engine, so I've got no complaints.
lmao, that sounded horrible at first but after reading the mileage it sounds pretty good actually. I assume it isnt your daily driver eating oil like that?
I drive it to work periodically, to get it run and keep the miles down on my cars. Doing that, it runs through a quart of oil in maybe two thousand miles.
I have all kinds of fun inside info on the TBI. I fish every summer with the GM engineer who was in charge of it.
Basically, they had reached a turning point with the Qjet. It was still their go-to for emissions and efficiency (and was used up through 1989 on some Olds 307s, Buick 3.8s, and chevy 4.3V6), but the powers that be declared that since so many other trucks were going EFI, GM had to do it as well. Given the 9 months to provide a from-scratch system with a limited budget, they were able to come up with the TBI. Their first iteration was so bad that NOx was nearly 10 times higher than what they were getting with a Qjet. They were using traditional injectors and couldn't get enough fuel through the tiny throats, so they switched to big liquid-squirting nozzles and dropped the pressure to about 25psi. They then had to design heads with a "swirl vane" to try and coax the fuel to evaporate just before the valve stem and in the process they completely neutered flow. Then they had to design a cam that would work with the head flow and came up with one that has 181 degrees duration intake and 188 exhaust. (or 186, I forget). Basically, the whole project was underfunded and crunched for time. They ended up making less power, more emissions (but still satisfied EPA), and spent all that money making something that didn't work well. Countless owners got fed up with them and stabbed in an HEI and a Qjet, and in the process picked up about 5hp and 2-3 mpg. In the process of ditching the traditional injectors and mounting those big spray bottles in there, they took a perfectly respectable 550 cfm throttle body and choked it down to 390 cfm... which is fine because the compression, head flow, and cam all wussed out at 4500 anyway. GM also limited them to flat tappet cams, but supplied them (partly) with roller cam blocks.
To this day, he apologizes profusely for the TBI and wishes no one knew it was him who was in charge of it.
It sounds like the obs ford, 97+ coil pack fords, and 96+ chevys (LS is my current hunt) are the ones to really look for. knowing a little more information, is there any further recommendations to hone in on?
Much of the years and numbers are failing to come to mind right now. 4.6L "mod" motors were a mid-90s invention and they are fantastic. The early ones used a more traditional single coil block with 8 wires. The later ones (01-up maybe?) did an individual coil on each plug. They aren't the beefiest coils so you'll get one that starts failing and a code for (let's say) P0306 "misfire cyl 6." So you test that coil and it says it's bad and you replace it for $50. Pretty soon you'll have P0302 and have to buy another one. The solution is to take it to a Ford dealer service dept and they put it on an oscilloscope to determine which ones are weak and they can often identify 2 or 3 that need to be replaced. The earlier "coil block" versions were simple. If the coil failed (which rarely happened), you can replace one single coil for $60 and be done with it. Word to the wise: Unless you're doing some crazy modifications and really know Ford electronics, always just use Ford parts counter ignition parts, or the correct Motorcraft plugs if your parts store carries them. Ford's EEC4 computers are incredibly sensitive to changes. The good news is that Ford OEM parts are really only a couple dollars more than generic Auto Zone parts. My Mazda B4000 (rebadged Ranger) had a bad coil block and replacing it didn't fix the issue. Replacing the hi-performance Taylor plug wires with Motorcraft wires fixed it instantly.
The 5.4L is a beast, but the early ones didn't have much thread depth for the plugs. They would work loose and pop out. Later 5.4L used a funky plug with a super long insulator that likes to get coked up with carbon and break off in the hole. It's not a big issue and every shop is aware of the simple fixes, just something to watch for.
My go-to for Fords is a 4.6L with a single, 8-post coil. Ridiculously reliable engines. If you can find one, my favorite choice of trucks would be the "heavy half." In some years they called it an F250LD, other years they called it an F150-7700. If you see an F150 body with funny 7-lug wheels, that's your ticket. They took an F150 body, boxed the frame, then stuffed all the F250 goodies in it; brakes, axle, 4R100 transmission, springs, the works. It has all the heavy duty suspension stuff which will last so much longer.
For the chevy, there isn't much to separate early from late. The 4.8L LS trucks are wimpy, but cheap. The 5.3L is a great engine, and might be a wee slow with 7000 lbs on it, but they are a dime a dozen. The 6.0L is a great power upgrade, but a disproportionate loss in MPG. Chevy also did a "heavy half" for most of the run. My B-I-L has one. It's the same basic story; 1500 body with 2500 goodies under it. His is a 6.0L and it is THIRSTY.
I tend to lean toward Ford stuff, but everyone has their loyalties. Ford seems to get the nod for quality of materials and assembly. The cloth on the seats will last longer. There are fewer rattles and buzzes. GM seems to have more electrical gremlins. The buttons on the dash will wear the coating off like wax. Ford just seems to have the quality nailed down a bit more than GM.
If ride quality is an issue, GMT800 trucks are better than an equivalent OBS Ford. That seemed to change over the years. Dad's two GMT900 Duramax trucks (one 2500 and one 3500) are absolutely punishing to ride in. They've fixed the noise/vibration stuff to a degree so you don't hear the bumps, but good lordy do you feel them. I also tend to prefer my Fords because I nearly always get 4x4, and Ford has a better steering design meaning that it doesn't take a football field to make a turn.
So... single-coil 4.6L is my first choice. 5.3L GMT900 second choice. Single-coil 5.4L third choice.
Oh, one other thing. The 4.6L and 5.4L will likely have exhaust manifold leaks on the passenger side. Rock Auto has a couple aftermarket solutions in the form of beefier castings and they aren't too hard to replace. You might want to ask a seller if it has been done.
lmao, bought the truck and four days later...
I know, zombie thread... Dave, I fixed the leaky radiator and replaced that trans sensor in your old truck.
Idk why, but recently when I buy a vehicle from someone. I fix all the immediate problems, update the original owner that their old vehicle is good to go and then never speak to them again.
Well since this is GRM I think you should probably talk to the guy again at some point just to be neighborly! 
Congrats on a new vehicle and problems solved!
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