Cheapest way to get a truck

93EXCivic wrote:

93EXCivic wrote:

ClemSparks wrote:

turbojunker wrote:

93EXCivic wrote: There is a '90s Sierra in my parent's yard (owned by a mowing company that rents a barn on the property) with 36k miles on it and it runs but it has been in an accident and the front bumper, grill, passenger's fender, and passenger's door need to be replaced. No clue of the engine but it has a carb. How much would that be worth?

Sure it's carbed? A 90's GMC should be a TBI truck.

I thought the same...but just chalked it up to a TBI looking a whole heck of a lot like a carburetor.

Probably was. I know zero about Chevy engines. I was thinking of offering him $400 for it. Should I even bother?

Here is pictures of said truck.

Body parts for those are pretty cheap. For that matter, if it's mechanically good and drives straight, don't bother fixing it.

I kinda figured I would just get the hood to shut and replace the bumper.

93EXCivic wrote: I kinda figured I would just get the hood to shut and replace the bumper.

That would be a great plan. If you don't have much money, the truck don't need be pretty.

N Sperlo wrote:

93EXCivic wrote: I kinda figured I would just get the hood to shut and replace the bumper.

That would be a great plan. If you don't have much money, the truck don't need be pretty.

It is not so much that I don't have money as I have other things I would rather spend money on.

4.3 Chevy. 1000 bucks should get you AC. You won't know the trailer is there.

I can probably be talked out of mine. It's a whole lot straighter than the one you posted. 95 F-150 XLT Extended Cab 2WD, Sport Truck flares & running boards, Factory tow package, 5.8L (351ci) V8, 4-speed AT w/OD, limited slip, captains chairs, sliding rear window, bedliner, Aluminum wheels, dual fuel tanks. The bad, canvas tonnau cover torn and dry rotted, AC needs a clutch to work, you'll need the dual gas tanks - 14mpg on a good day. Used to run better but don't drive it much and has small things pop up that goes away with milage. And speaking of mileage, >205,000. Even got better mileage when it had less miles. I'm sure if you do some work to it it would also tow better than it does now but it did tow great when it had less miles. Needs rear tires too. Dark blue w/light blue pinstrips but clearcoat coming off on top flat surfaces, roof and hood. And windows need retinting or tinting removed. I kept it for hauling when I got the Miata but now neglected and doesn't do anything well. Should run great with some maintenance done on it. Got enough maintenance hungary vehicle as it is. Plus SWMBO says I can have a new(er) truck next year. She wants a camper for when we retire.

If you haven't bought that truck yet, let me know. Body parts are cheap and plentiful (pick-n-pull or LKQ is your friend). It's probably already got a hitch on it rated for 5000 lbs (i think it was a law these half-ton's had to have a hitch mounted) or you can tow up to 2000-3000 with a ball mounted on the bumper. Hard parts are super cheap, if the interior is half way decent this is the way to go. (interior parts are expensive). Towing expect 10-12 mpg and 15-16 mpg in regular driving, but it will pull what you got no problem. Bought one myself a few months ago w/275,000 miles for 1K. Made a tow down to SoFla for a buddy with the biggest U-haul trailer we could find (14 foot i think). Burned a lot of gas on the way down but handled 65-75 on the highway no sweat. Biggest problem was a bad ignition module started cutting out, fixed it in the auto zone parking lot in 20 minutes.

wlkelley3 wrote: I can probably be talked out of mine. It's a whole lot straighter than the one you posted. 95 F-150 XLT Extended Cab 2WD, Sport Truck flares & running boards, Factory tow package, 5.8L (351ci) V8, 4-speed AT w/OD, limited slip, captains chairs, sliding rear window, bedliner, Aluminum wheels, dual fuel tanks. The bad, canvas tonnau cover torn and dry rotted, AC needs a clutch to work, you'll need the dual gas tanks - 14mpg on a good day. Used to run better but don't drive it much and has small things pop up that goes away with milage. And speaking of mileage, >205,000. Even got better mileage when it had less miles. I'm sure if you do some work to it it would also tow better than it does now but it did tow great when it had less miles. Needs rear tires too. Dark blue w/light blue pinstrips but clearcoat coming off on top flat surfaces, roof and hood. And windows need retinting or tinting removed. I kept it for hauling when I got the Miata but now neglected and doesn't do anything well. Should run great with some maintenance done on it. Got enough maintenance hungary vehicle as it is. Plus SWMBO says I can have a new(er) truck next year. She wants a camper for when we retire.

I will talk to you at some point about it.

93EXCivic wrote:

914Driver wrote: Why a truck? With a van you can hide your tools inside and have a place to duck into in case of rain.

Can a dirt bike fit?

Yep. Not in the captain chair version, but in a box it will.

No problem.

Up here in Michigan, 4x4's pull a premium, and the base 2wd's are looked down upon so they can be had cheaper.

I can usually find TBI Chevy "W/T" work trucks with the base model grill, vinyl floor, and steel wheels in 2WD for ~$1200 or less in the "old body" '89-'94 year range. They're 20 years old so not pretty, but with simple computers and simple EFI-TBI setups, they'll start easy, no carb tinkering, and they just plain work. Parts are everywhere as mentioned at LKQ pull your own yards or Craigslist. Old old trucks are cooler looking, but something ~20 years old or less for the same money probably means less headaches and less required tinkering since they've all bottomed out in value.

As noted before, anything in this price range regardless of age can nickle and dime you for tires/brakes/front end components/etc. but the basic guts can be kept running with some wrench turning fairly simply. Any of the 4.3/305 or 350 trucks will have adequate ability to yank around mid to small race cars and a trailer.

examples:
you can usually negotiate something like this down to $1200: http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/2789769904.html

or one that's a little ugly already for cheap: http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/2742335467.html

the '86/'87 "square body" GM trucks also made the switch to fuel injection even before the newer body style. example: http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/cto/2777304263.html

I bought a 92 f150, 300/5 spd 4x4 for 600 a couple years ago, put 10k on it only needed a rad hose, then had to sell due to lack of parking.

Currently have a 1998 gmc 1500 4x4 6.5 turbo diesel I got for 1500. Had it for 3 months so far and havent done anything mechanical on it and it runs great.

Best tip when looking for cheap trucks i think is go look at the ones with no pictures posted, most people skip these ads, and that's how I got both my trucks. Both owned by older guys who just didnt need them anymore. My theory is the older crowd isn't very net savvy so their ads sucks, but they're also more likely to take care of their vehicles.

93EXCivic wrote:

N Sperlo wrote:

93EXCivic wrote: I kinda figured I would just get the hood to shut and replace the bumper.

That would be a great plan. If you don't have much money, the truck don't need be pretty.

It is not so much that I don't have money as I have other things I would rather spend money on.

Do you have a large hammer? It can't get much worse, so mauling it into shape would be worth a shot.

MitchellC wrote:

93EXCivic wrote:

N Sperlo wrote:

93EXCivic wrote: I kinda figured I would just get the hood to shut and replace the bumper.

That would be a great plan. If you don't have much money, the truck don't need be pretty.

It is not so much that I don't have money as I have other things I would rather spend money on.

Do you have a large hammer? It can't get much worse, so mauling it into shape would be worth a shot.

hammer? a chain and a tree will get it to where it needs to be..