Conductive epoxy?

While we're talking wiring, has anyone ever seen an epoxy that conducts electricity? I can't solder worth a squat, thought this might work.

Yup, we used it on Beech 1900D propeller blade shanks when I was working as an AME.

It was just Devcon 5 minute epoxy mixed with powdered aluminum. I can't remember the ratio but it went by weight.

The mix was conductive when it was cured. We used it to pot the blade bearings to the propeller shanks and provide a conductive path for static discharge.

The blades were kevlar / fibreglass composite with an aluminum spar in the middle. They were painted with conductive paint and the epoxy served to bed the steel bearings to the conductive painted blade shank and provide a current path.

I'd bet you can buy powdered aluminum online somewhere.

Shawn

I always thought something like a hot glue gun but like really strong glue, that was conductive, would be a very handy invention. I dont know of anything though

Trans_Maro wrote: Yup, we used it on Beech 1900D propeller blade shanks when I was working as an AME. It was just Devcon 5 minute epoxy mixed with powdered aluminum. I can't remember the ratio but it went by weight. The mix was conductive when it was cured. We used it to pot the blade bearings to the propeller shanks and provide a conductive path for static discharge. The blades were kevlar / fibreglass composite with an aluminum spar in the middle. They were painted with conductive paint and the epoxy served to bed the steel bearings to the conductive painted blade shank and provide a current path. I'd bet you can buy powdered aluminum online somewhere. Shawn

That powdered radiator sealant stuff? Ohm meter to verify?

Learn how to solder.

My tips:

1. get solder that doesn't require flux (most solder is like this)
2. let your soldering iron heat up
3. keep your tip tinned (load it with solder and let it bake hard to the tip)
4. give your tip a wipe with a damp paper towel to remove all soot before continuing
5. apply heat to the part, and apply solder to the part, do not apply solder to the iron
6. if the part doesn't seem to get hot enough, put a bit of solder on the tip and try again. liquids conduct heat better than solids
7. when you're done, put a nice blob of solder on the tip and store it like this

It's worth it to learn how to solder

what exactly have you been attempting to solder? Like most other skills it's acquired through practice and more practice.. a lot like welding.. and folks learn more every day. Soldering is not that difficult, plus what Taiden said.

I found using a small block of wood behind the joint (if possible) helps stabilize the wires to be soldered and aids in heat transfer to the wire joint, my .02

Yes.

I bought a used Snug Top Miata hard top with a rear window defroster. The wiring harness plugged onto male terminals that were epoxied to the grid on the glass, and one of them had come off. I wrote to the company and they sent me a tiny bit of the stuff in a plastic container, for free. From what I understand, it's really expensive because it has actual gold in it. I think i may have been a Permatex product.

Taiden wrote: Learn how to solder. My tips: 1. get solder that doesn't require flux (most solder is like this) 2. let your soldering iron heat up 3. keep your tip tinned (load it with solder and let it bake hard to the tip) 4. give your tip a wipe with a damp paper towel to remove all soot before continuing 5. apply heat to the part, and apply solder to the part, do not apply solder to the iron 6. if the part doesn't seem to get hot enough, put a bit of solder on the tip and try again. liquids conduct heat better than solids 7. when you're done, put a nice blob of solder on the tip and store it like this It's worth it to learn how to solder

There is way too much goodness here.... for what it's worth, I always keep my tip tinned. Keeps out the soot.

Taiden wrote: Learn how to solder. My tips: 1. get solder that doesn't require flux (most solder is like this) 2. let your soldering iron heat up 3. keep your tip tinned (load it with solder and let it bake hard to the tip) 4. give your tip a wipe with a damp paper towel to remove all soot before continuing 5. apply heat to the part, and apply solder to the part, do not apply solder to the iron 6. if the part doesn't seem to get hot enough, put a bit of solder on the tip and try again. liquids conduct heat better than solids 7. when you're done, put a nice blob of solder on the tip and store it like this It's worth it to learn how to solder

This plus buy hemostats. They are great heatsinks and cost next to nothing

Yeah, we use the stuff at work . The price will convince you that learning to solder is the way to go. Gotta sotre it a -50C if you want to keep it for any time. (arrives on dry ice) The cleanlines and general prep make soldering seem trivial. You dont want to try and run any high current through the stuff since it is more resistive than solder.

I've used silver filled epoxy with good success to re-attach wires to defroster grid on rear windows. It's expensive.

In reply to TRoglodyte:

Not rad sealant, we just had a white plastic uart bottle with "Powdered aluminum" on a label. Can't remember where we got it but we used so little with each mix that we never needed to re-order in the 8 years I worked there.

Yes, we verified with an ohmmeter when we were done. This wouldn't work with electronics since the resistance was in k-ohms.

I missed the "can't solder worth a damn" part. It's really not that hard, you just need practice.

Shawn

My final tip is to put your heatshrink over the offending wire BEFORE soldering them together.

Taiden wrote: My final tip is to put your heatshrink over the offending wire BEFORE soldering them together.

You need to stand over my shouldeer every time I'm soldering to remind me of that

MG_Bryan wrote: This plus buy hemostats. They are great heatsinks and cost next to nothing

Where does one buy roach clips, I mean hemostats?

Taiden wrote: My final tip is to put your heatshrink over the offending wire BEFORE soldering them together.

My tip about heat shrink.... Thermafix Plus dual wall, it has an adhesive on the inside that seals the join making an enviromental seal

The biggest thing about soldering is using a good iron. It's incredibly frustrating if your iron doesn't get hot enough. With a good iron, it's more or less brainless.

You should be able to get powdered Al from a pyrotechnics supplier. Sometimes these suppliers are at gunshows.

unevolved wrote: The biggest thing about soldering is using a good iron. It's incredibly frustrating if your iron doesn't get hot enough. With a good iron, it's more or less brainless.

+1

I struggled with soldering many years ago using a cheap iron. A friend gave me a good iron and it made a huge difference for me.

unevolved wrote: The biggest thing about soldering is using a good iron. It's incredibly frustrating if your iron doesn't get hot enough. With a good iron, it's more or less brainless.

For what it's worth, I have a nice analog temp controlled station, and a $5 walmart Weller soldering iron.

I use the Weller most often.

Basic how to solder and shrink wrap from PM:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/news/4213013

Radio Shack is an easy place to find tools and supplies but buy the better stuff, it's worth it. Clamp jig is nice but not always usable like under dash so be ready to improvise. A block of wood can make a good back up in a pinch.

I solder and shrink wrap all crimp terminals too.. forks, rings, slots etc. Makes for a stronger connection. I seen too many wires twist and weaken at the connector barrel end.

Taiden wrote: My final tip is to put your heatshrink over the offending wire BEFORE soldering them together.

..so then I solder through the tubing?

Learn to solder. It is not hard. Surely there's a youtube on it.

I used a $5 crap shack soldering iron for 2-3 decades. Same tip. And it was a major component of the tools I earned a living with for 7 years. Finally, when I had to build a Megasquirt based ECU from scratch with all miniature components, shown here:

I broke down and bought a professional solder station. It is very nice, but still, most of my work is done in the shop with a HF soldering gun or my old crap shack iron.

My point being that you don't need the $100 solder station. The cheap soldering iron will do you just fine. Just learn how to use it. And buy the smallest ROSEN CORE solder you can get at crap shack. It will make all of your work easier.

Dr. Hess wrote: Learn to solder.

neat practice project: DIY digital watch