When I was eyeing a 3/4ton suburban with the 8.1 that ran and drove on copart a couple of weeks ago the car was in Colorado and I was uneligible to bid I looked into the fees. I don't think where you are matters about eligibility its about where the car is and that states laws for that particular item.
That being said I also looked up autobid master and I figured spending about 2k on the car it was going to cost about 1k in fees to copart
300-500 for the member sale fee
60 for the gate fee at the lot
69 for the internet bid fee
Then Autobidmaster was a 250 dollar transaction fee with a 400 dollar deposit which I assume goes to your purchase
This is before calculating any storage fees or transportation fees to actually get the car picked up/delivered to you.
But so first find was a running driving 8.1 3/4ton suburban that sold for 2500 in texas
2004 Mazdaspeed Miata 2300, needed a bumper and a fender and had a crease in the rear but looked driveable
2002 Acura RSX Type-S 925, looked pretty straight just had steelies on it and mismatched body panels
2007 Mazda 3 650, very little damage
2008 Toyota Prius 3000, main damage was a door/side hit but seemed mostly contained to the door itself
2014 Camaro 2SS 11000, main damage was door/side hit
2004 Yukon 875, no damage but high mileage 280k
High mileage domestic stuff seems to go dirt cheap, prius's seem to be selling to NJ likely for Taxi fleets, trucks and pony cars, and newer cars/suvs seem to be much more competitively bid on. I've watched a bunch of running and driving look fine taurus now sell for 150-250 bucks. China Grove near Charlotte moves an insane amount of cars but is too far for me to get to easily to look at stuff in person unless I was really serious. Just for the next auction run and drive no license required they have 384 cars going up