Cost Effective Drive By Wire throttle pedal?

I am putting an engine with DBW into the 360.  It has Wilwood pedals and I really want to keep the throttle pedal.  I need to mount a DBW throttle to the car.  I would like to keep the Willwood pedal.  

I can't seem to type the right string of inputs into google to find a stand alone sensor for DBW throttle that isn't the $500  Lokar one.

~$100 buys a GM full pedal assembly with plug.

Is there an option other then mounting a GM pedal and actuating it with the willwood pedal?  Surely I can get just the sensor for <$100?

There are some metal Subaru pedals that you might be able to pull the pots off. 

Throttle position sensor + pigtail + bell crank on TPS shaft. Connect the two with a linkage

At least that is how we have always done it with Haltech systems. Kits exist for Tilton pedal boxes

Many Honda V6s had a cable operated APP under the hood.  A throttle cable went to it from a regular cable pedal.  Should be junkyardable because Honda made zillions.

Are you using a standalone or an OEM engine controller?  If an OEM then whatever solution you use must be electrically compatible.  Not everyone used the same APP 1/2 strategy.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

There's a Subaru>Vanagon swap shop that mounts the DBW pedal on top of the engine (at the rear, 15' away) and drills a hole it in. The factory throttle cable is attached to that, so when you operate the factory throttle it pulls on the DBW pedal for you. I always figured it was super-janky but apparently that's basically what Honda did.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Yep!

I just did an image search for Honda Pilot accelerator pedal sensor.  These were used when Honda went to drive by wire with chassis still engineered around a cable pedal. 

Trent's solution is much more Race Car, but this seems very easy for retrofit.

GM throttle pedals are way more flexible than Holley would like people to think (and junkyards and eBay are full of them).  That said, you have to spend countless hours on the LS1 site figuring out the millions of minute ways they change the wiring sequence in the plug to find out that you actually can use a truck pedal in a supposedly Corvette/CTS-V-only application . . .

They are super-simple rheostats that any engineer should be able to figure out.  The control is for a freaking electric blanket or an old thermostat.  In one application, I combined the guts of a GM van and pickup to fit a certain firewall/plug requirement.  It just takes messing with.

Pretty sure thats an old Dodge trick too, there are certain years drive by wire with a conventional cable and a remote sensor.

I think they were on the Cummins trucks so they may have the Diesel Tax on them

In reply to rustomatic :

Not sure about Holley, but for the original drive by wire GMs where they had a separate TAC module, you could find yourself in a world of suck if you didn't keep the TAC and throttle pedal and engine control module together.  They weren't always compatible with each other.  (I think the specific issue was the TAC and the PCM not communicating properly)

I don't know the tech behind it, but in 04 or 05 the crown Victoria went DBW, might be easy junkyard fodder

There is absolutely no possible reason to descend to this level of jankiness, but an e-bike throttle is basically the same as half of an accelerator position sensor.

These are like $4 on Aliexpress.  You'd need 2x plus a resistor to shift the voltage on one of 'em.

IMHO drive-by-wire throttles are not the place to prioritize price over quality.

The application will use a Haltech Nexus R3 Stand alone, and drive a OEM Subaru Throttle body.   I do not believe there is any limitation and the Nexus can adapt basically any OEM type pedal solution.  

I'm not looking to jank and or cut this to the absolute limit of cost.  I just imagine a OEM quality sensor without the size and complexity of a molded in pedal is available for less then the  $500 Lokar solution.  The Honda OEM parts seem like a winner just to direct drive it off is the pedal or up under the dash by a very short cable.  

Here is a dorman replacement for the Honda assembly. 

And here appears to be the plug with pigtails..

This looks like it might be a winning combination.  I am trying to find the plug without single color pigtails or unterminated.

In reply to nocones :

Oh, Dorman is a four letter word in the auto repair community.  It's what you install if you like comebacks, assuming that it even works right out of the box.

I'd trust a junkyard part 100 times more than a Dorman part.  I'm not exaggerating when I say I have never seen one of these fail in the wild.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

I will probably go get one out of a junkyard.  I need to run over to get some other parts from our local one anyway.  I'll probably snip the pigtail as well.  

I mostly just linked it so I would have the part number for illustration so I could cross reference the OEM one.  Not necessarily suggesting to buy the dorman one.