Cracked block, how would you fix this?

Motor obviously still runs fine. This is an aluminum block.

I'm thinking drop the oil pan, clean everything up, JB Weld.

What do YOU guys think?

I assume it's actually leaking? If not I'd do nothing. If yes, then your solution is about how I'd approach it.

Yeah it's gonna leak. Especially if that piece ends up falling off.

Pins and JB Weld.

Line the part up, drill two pin holes, clean, JB Weld, pins and done. The pins are to keep everything lined up and add a little strength.

^+1

I would add maybe grind that little ear off that is hanging in the wind to keep anything from snagging on it in the future and stressing the repair..

^Good idea.

That ear looks to be what caused this to be as bad as it is. Axle popped out and gave it a wallop.

The pins that he mentions could be "split roll pins" but you will have to make sure that they won't leak though the open center or seal them up.

LS swap. (Hey, someone had to say it! )

RossD wrote: LS swap. (Hey, someone had to say it! )

Gross, and won't fit.

TIG it?

use cheap drill bit, and it'll automatically become your pin.

Unless I'm looking at something I don't see, isn't that a broken timing cover?

A corner of the head on my Triumph GT6 was repaired with JB weld almost 30 years ago. It's still holding fine to this day :)

Streetwiseguy wrote: Unless I'm looking at something I don't see, isn't that a broken timing cover?

oil pan rail

Get it tig'd. Otherwise get it metal stitched. Tig will probably be cheaper and with aluminium it will probably yeild better results than metal stitching.

I'd TIG it because I have a TIG. If I did not... pins + JB weld will do the job.

One of my solid mounted transmission ears on my race car have been that way for 2 seasons and it still hasn't cracked again. I seriously thought it was a temp repair to get it thru the weekend... but that is some tenacious E36 M3 when it hardens.

Shotgun.

RossD wrote: LS swap. (Hey, someone had to say it! )

That's what I did the last time I was faced with a cracked block, and it worked pretty well. But pins and JB weld would be what I'd do in this case if I wanted a less drastic solution.

http://www.alumaloy.com/#!alumaloy-specs/c12vf

Maybe this is obvious, but when you do the pin, drill all the way through the cracked part from the outside and into the block. You'll never get it aligned otherwise.

I'd pin and use the Alumaloy or Aladdin rod. http://www.aladdin3in1.com/products/3in1rod.php

Swank Force One wrote:

RossD wrote: LS swap. (Hey, someone had to say it! )

Gross, and won't fit.

lies and blasphemy.. an LS fits in everything, they even made a front wheel drive version, so that's no excuse..

seems like a better long term solution than JB Weld, so really we're trying to save you money and aggravation in the long term by suggesting it..

novaderrik wrote:

Swank Force One wrote:

RossD wrote: LS swap. (Hey, someone had to say it! )

Gross, and won't fit.

lies and blasphemy.. an LS fits in everything, they even made a front wheel drive version, so that's no excuse.. seems like a better long term solution than JB Weld, so really we're trying to save you money and aggravation in the long term by suggesting it..

6spd/2zz swapped MR-S with a hardtop. I'm good on the LS. Do not want.

Swank Force One wrote:

novaderrik wrote:

Swank Force One wrote:

RossD wrote: LS swap. (Hey, someone had to say it! )

Gross, and won't fit.

lies and blasphemy.. an LS fits in everything, they even made a front wheel drive version, so that's no excuse.. seems like a better long term solution than JB Weld, so really we're trying to save you money and aggravation in the long term by suggesting it..

6spd/2zz swapped MR-S with a hardtop. I'm good on the LS. Do not want.

Yeah, but with a FWD LSJuan mounted in the middle, it might even make up for its awkward styling with enough go that no one would care.