Cutting Off Rivets

When I say rivets, I mean the big bastard bolt variety.

I am trying to figure out a way to get at these two spots on the leafspring hanger on my truck to cut the rivets off. I currently have access to a sawzall... but I'm thinking air hammer?

Thoughts? As you can see, they are kind of in a channel... I don't want to spend days on end doing this, so I'd be willing to pay a shope $100-$200 to do the labour but around here I don't know if that would be possible...

Drill through them.

Air hammering just wrecks your joints.

Since i can't see the part in situ, I can only offer advice from the pic. I'd take a torch to the heads of the rivets and cut them off, or a angle-grinder. Again, depends on the angle of the dangle. I'm assuming you can't just drill them like Knurled said?

angle grinder with .062 cut-off blade. If you can get 50% or more of the nut...you're done...

Rog

I did the front hangat on my longbed in situ with a normal grinding wheel on mu 4 inch. Ground the head off, hit it with a propane torch to break the rust bond, and hammered them through with an air chisel.

Careful application of the cutting torch, or a little pneumatic die grinder with a cutoff wheel.

I do this stuff for a living.

Center punch the rivet head.

Drill completely through with a 1/4" drill.

Drill with a 1/2" drill until the head pops off.

Knock the rest out with a punch.

It's important to go completely through with the 1/4 so the rivet can shrink a little or you'll be beating on it for hours with a punch. Drilled through, they nearly fall out.

Have fun.

bah.

torch head off, knock out, replace with bolts.

i have dealt with more than my share of riveted on rusted out brackets.

I only have a butane torch, nothing powerful. Unfortunately, getting a drill in on one of them was possible. The other one, the leaf spring is directly in the way (and not enough space in the fenderwell for the drill with a 1/2" bit to fit).

Fuuuuuu. All suggestions will work for the rearward rivet, its the forward one that is going to be tough :(

Two good options:

Failing that:

Looking that last picture suggests to me that you are replacing this existing rusty mount... Right? If that is the case then why not remove it in stages? Cut the bolt holding the spring in place out so the spring can move, then cut the outer part of the bracket free of the inner part, and then you should have clear access to all the rivets with a cut off wheel. The bracket appears to be garbage so who cares if it comes out in one piece.

itsarebuild wrote: Looking that last picture suggests to me that you are replacing this existing rusty mount... Right? If that is the case then why not remove it in stages? Cut the bolt holding the spring in place out so the spring can move, then cut the outer part of the bracket free of the inner part, and then you should have clear access to all the rivets with a cut off wheel. The bracket appears to be garbage so who cares if it comes out in one piece.

I actually never did consider that... If I have the axle at full droop, I guess the leaf will fall out of the way. I might be able to get a grinder in there at that point!

Its definitely not a matter of being nice to anything. My tools are limited, as well as space in the wheel well. Getting that leaf out of the way might do it though :)

Trans_Maro wrote: I do this stuff for a living. Center punch the rivet head. Drill completely through with a 1/4" drill. Drill with a 1/2" drill until the head pops off. Knock the rest out with a punch. It's important to go completely through with the 1/4 so the rivet can shrink a little or you'll be beating on it for hours with a punch. Drilled through, they nearly fall out. Have fun.

^^^^ I will add that you should buy good drill bits. I have been at the point where the head is ground off and the SOB acts like it is still welded in place.

So, using a combo of sawzall, 4" grinder, and cobalt drill bits, this is where I am at (its break time lol)

Unfortunately, I had to cut the hanger attached to the leaf spring :( they are cheap to replace, I just wish I had it RIGHT NOW amd I could be done today...

Im on the north side of a million population city at my garage I rent, looks like I'll be taking lightrailtransit back to the south side where I live! :o

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-95343.html worked pretty good for me on a core support, centerpunch is a must though. might work on rivets

Remove the entire leaf spring assembly from the car, then separate the leaves on the bench.

You should only have 1 bolt at the rear, and maybe a U-bolt or 2.

If you have to cut the U-bolt, big deal. They are cheap.

SVreX wrote: Remove the entire leaf spring assembly from the car, then separate the leaves on the bench. You should only have 1 bolt at the rear, and maybe a U-bolt or 2. If you have to cut the U-bolt, big deal. They are cheap.

Removing the spring usually means having to cut the front hanger off, too.

SOP where I work is, when one hanger is rusty, you order the rear hanger, the shackle, the spring, and the front hanger, since none of it ever comes apart. Also, of course, all through bolts and U bolts involved.

Man I am glad those trucks are gone from the roads now. I don't miss eight hours of air hammering and breathing burnt rubber and torching on the drivers side front spring eye while someone keeps hosing the work area (and, by definition, me) with water to keep the fuel filler neck from catching fire...

Everybody I've ever seen remove those rivets has just ground away the head then centerpunched the E36 M3 out of the remaining stub.

In reply to Knurled:

Did you miss the picture?

Front hanger already gone.

Knurled wrote:

SVreX wrote: Remove the entire leaf spring assembly from the car, then separate the leaves on the bench. You should only have 1 bolt at the rear, and maybe a U-bolt or 2. If you have to cut the U-bolt, big deal. They are cheap.

Removing the spring usually means having to cut the front hanger off, too. SOP where I work is, when one hanger is rusty, you order the rear hanger, the shackle, the spring, and the front hanger, since none of it ever comes apart. Also, of course, all through bolts and U bolts involved. Man I am glad those trucks are gone from the roads now. I don't miss eight hours of air hammering and breathing burnt rubber and torching on the drivers side front spring eye while someone keeps hosing the work area (and, by definition, me) with water to keep the fuel filler neck from catching fire...

Haha, I think there is some confusion. ;)

The rear hanger was toast. Unfortunately, the rear shackle had the bolt rusted in it, so I had to cut it off too. No need to remove everything, the front hanger and shackle are fine (thank god). The rest of it came apart ok though surprisingly enough!

The truck is way too far gone rust wise to do any more work than is necessary. It needs to last another year or two until the colorado with the 2.8L baby dmax comes out, or the aluminum 2.7L TT f150's come out. So I am just replacing the hanger and shackle on the one side :)