FWIW, I have it plugged in so the block is nice and warm.
93gsxturbo had some good troubleshooting steps to rule out fuel - check fuel bowl in the valley of the engine, check HPOP for oil, verify pump is running. If those are both ok it could be a random sensor or something else crazy.
I don't think the glow plug solenoid being broken will affect much especially if it's plugged in. I'm pretty sure in Texas and AZ half of the people with 7.3s don't know their glowplugs don't work
Yeah, I still need to unplug the ICP and listen for the fuel pump. I can't hear the pump from the cabin. Need to gave someone turn the key while I'm at the pump. I drained the bowl by way of the petcock.
The pump will run and refill the bowl with the key in "run". does not have to be in crank. Not sure what sort of pump it is but both of my trucks (both 2002s) will knock a bit as they fill, sounds like an electronic chipmunk. I am pretty deaf and I can hear it no prob.
Regarding the glows, if you are plugged in you should have no need for glows, my trucks start fine down to about 40F with no glows, any lower and you gotta run them. If you need the glows to start a warm motor, the motor is about past it. Your truck will start easily with 6 of the 8 glows working fine, but more than that are dead and it will be tough to start.
The glow plug indicator on the dash is not actually tied to the glow plug relay, its just the computers best guess. So just because that is going, doesnt mean the glows are on. They actually continue to run for a minute or 2 after the engine starts depending on outside temp.
But since the truck shut off while running, its not the glow plugs or a cranking speed problem. On a diesel, thats generally a fuel issue.
First thing to check is make sure your filter is good and the bowl is full. Change the filter and reprime. If you havent changed your filter in 6 months you are due anyway.
You said you replaced the CPS, make sure you have it plugged in and the wires are not damaged.
Make sure the crankcase oil (dipstick) and HPOP oil (inspection plug) are within range. No oil no start.
Besides from that there is really not a whole lot you can do without a scanner. Generic OBD2 is OK at best, the Powerstokes are sort of odd and most of the PIDs you want to read are not generic, you need a specific scanner for them. Autoenginuity is very good, if you can find someone with a Snap-On MT-2500 or MTG-2500 (the old red brick) these are fantastic for Powerstrokes as well. You want to scan engine RPM and make sure you are seeing a crank signal and scan ICP pressure and make sure you have over 900 PSI.
There is a good thread on this exact issue here, its somewhat technical so feel free to read it and ask questions. I have been inside these trucks forward and backward.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1372424-fixed-cranks-no-start-ipr-icp-ficm-good-fixed.html
Fuel pump sounds fine. No stress and even sounding. Disconnected ICP. Still no start. I'm not sure what the device is in front of the heater blower on the passenger side fender well but it usually runs then shuts off but right now it just keeps running. I've been looking for a local place to buy a filter wrench but no joy and I'm not clearly seeing dripping from that area when I open the fuel valve. Previously I could see dripping of fuel.
Is there a test for the fuel injector harness under the valve covers. I know mine was very brittle when I replaced a driver side injector, I guess get a schematic and ohm it fron the connection on top of valve cover.
I imagine if 4 cylinders weren't firing it wouldn't start. Was it down on power or surging at idle before it quit?
I had a surging at idle, maybe 40 to 60 rpm. Took it to my friends shop and hooked his pro box up. When it started testing the fuel system the engine immediately died, his first thought was a short in the injector harness or a fuel issue. So if it's not the CPS, that is something else that could shut it down automatically, mine is a 2001 e350.
I know there's a way to test continuity with the injectors without pulling the valve covers, just can't find it right now.
There's a connector through the valve cover, inboard side, right in the middle. They get pretty grimy. Should be one wirefor each injector, glow plugs power and a ground?
I know on the 6.0 the injectors can leak, causing the oil to get thin. Thin oil will not build up enough pressure to run, and the trucks shut off like you're out of fuel. Sometimes they will restart after sitting, run for a few days, then shut off again. Not sure if the 7.3 has the same issue, but figured I'd throw it out there
In reply to markwemple:
With the right diagnostic tool you can do a "buzz test" on the injectors even if the engine won't start. Should clearly tell you if the injectors are working.
You can get more info with a cylinder contribution test but you need a running engine for that.
I haven't had any luck finding someone willing to lend me one and it looks like its 400 to buy. Wish it wasn't specific to my truck. Easier to justify the spend if it worked on all of our vehicles.
It's not out of the realm of possibilities that the CPS you put in was a dud. I'd try another before tearing in too far. This has all the ear-marks of a CPS. All of them.
More ideas, anyone? Trying to find a Bluetooth scanner that works on my truck that I can get next day No luck so far.
I want to see what it does with a "known good" CPS before you go any farther. These almost never just stop like you described unless it's the CPS.
I'd probably try a cheapy Auto Zone one if you can. If it doesn't work either then it's probably something else although a bad batch of electronics isn't unheard of these days - esp since they are likely all made by the absolute lowest bidder.
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