As spring approaches, it's time to start thinking about cleaning up cars. I think it's time to invest in a buffer that will let me correct some minor flaws on the 128i and my GF's Mazda 3, as well as take on the bigger task of buffing out the very dead paint on my Saab. I'm looking at this kit, but I really am starting from zero when it comes to knowing what to look for. I've got a clay bar already, and a consumer-grade ceramic to use once I'm done. Anything else I need? Is the buffer I linked to a decent option? Pro tips that will save me from myself?
I am pro Chemical Guys anything. That looks to be a very good machine. With that said I've used a $40 random orbit machine for many years and find it just fine for my needs and use on several cars. The machine you suggest is much better and if you think you'll use it I say go for it.
Seems like a decent kit for the price. I do this for a living now, so it's hard for me to not to start recommending tools and chemicals that you don't really need.
That machine looks very similar to the old Porter Cable 7424xp that was pretty much every detailers first polisher 10 years ago. If it's anything like that machine it'll be fine for your use, but it will probably take more time if you try to do it the right way. With an 8mm orbital throw is not going to have tons of built in cutting power, for reference my polisher has a 21mm throw, but that's probably better for someone with less experience. I don't use Chemical guys stuff professionally, but they make decent products for the consumer. I'm not familiar with their pads and polishing liquids, so I won't make a recommendation there. Just start with a combination that should be in the middle for aggression and work from there.
Just take your time, and focus on a good technique and you should get good results. Try marking the backing plate with a sharpie. That will help you to know whether you've got the pad stalling or not. It's not the end of the world if the pad does stall, but you'll want to prevent it as much as possible. Do a test spot! That will save a lot of time in the long run and should give you a consistent result as long as you don't have a bunch of mismatched panels.
In reply to MTechnically (Forum Supporter) :
What do you recommend for seats and carpets that's better than a Bissell Little Green Machine? That's what I use now but I'm thinking about buying something better.
John Welsh said:
In reply to MTechnically (Forum Supporter) :
What do you recommend for seats and carpets that's better than a Bissell Little Green Machine? That's what I use now but I'm thinking about buying something better.
Are you talking about the full size machine or the little "spot bot" style machine? If the former, I would focus on chemicals and techniques before moving to a better machine, it should have plenty of suction power and heat to handle most DIY stuff. Otherwise you're stepping up to professional grade extractors like a Mytee 8070. That's what I use in the shop, but I'm not doing a crazy amount of extraction.
Steam can be a really good way to clean fabrics as well, helps to prevent stain wicking from foam to fabric. Just be careful to identify the stain first since tannin based stains can be set by heat.
I know I've seen posts asking this before but what are the polishes, waxes, etc you recommend that a non-professional can buy?
and what do you recommend to dry a car off with after washing??
jfryjfry said:
I know I've seen posts asking this before but what are the polishes, waxes, etc you recommend that a non-professional can buy?
and what do you recommend to dry a car off with after washing??
I'll have to admit that I'm limited in my knowledge of non-professional products, like you might find in a local auto parts store. Meguiars would be my choice for polish and compound that is widely available, usually you'll see 105 and 205, which is a professional grade product. I've heard good things about the new Turtle Wax hybrid ceramic products, but I have not tested them personally.
Waxes are a challenge for someone like me. I don't tend to use them as a professional because they tend to be time consuming to apply and remove. They have their place and can offer a nice warmth to the paint, but it's just not a good fit for most professional jobs.
When it comes to drying, my first recommendation would be use a good quality drying towel with a drying aid. I like P&S Bead Maker but most quick detailers should work fine. As with washing, try to work top to bottom and in straight lines, not circles. Filp the sides of the towel after a few panels. Drying with forced air is great to, especially if you're car has some sort of protection on it.
Some reading and watching from the Classic Motorsports side of the building that might help: How to easily, quickly detail your paint
And to watch:
Thanks for all the feedback. I think I'll go ahead and pick up the kit I linked to and see what I can manage once the weather warms up a bit.
MTechnically, can you explain this a little further?: "Try marking the backing plate with a sharpie. That will help you to know whether you've got the pad stalling or not."
Like this:
There is a clutch in the head. Too much pressure on the pad or too low a speed will cause the clutch to slip. The lines on the plate let you see that the pad is spinning, or not spinning.
fasted58 said:
Like this:
This is exactly what I'm talking about. If the lines stay in one place then you're stalling the pad. Keep the pad as level as possible to the surface and ease up on the pressure to get the pad moving again.
I learned buffing many years ago on a rotary machine. Made some mistakes but got very comfortable with it. I bought a random last year and don't have much time on it but so far I can't get the same level of results with it as I can the old rotary buffer.
Along this lines, I saw that Meguiars has a drill attachment DA polisher kit. For $55, seems like an inexpensive way to get into polishing. Especially for daily drivers, which is why I'm thinking about it. Anyone have experience with it? Meguiar's drill mounted polisher.
-Rob
Following this thread because Ive never thought about it before.
Liking seeing the low(er) budget stuff like the $55 Meguiar's attachment (vs the 140 kit posted upstream), but not sure where to start at and if I really NEED somethign like that.
hybridmomentspass said:
....but not sure where to start at and if I really NEED somethign like that.
That's kinda where I am. The paint on my Mazda is in decent shape and could probably be improved with a good polish, but it's also got a number of whisky dents and some bubbling at the edges, so dropping the money on a $150 polisher just feels like overkill. Plus, since I've never done it, most of it would be just a learning experience for me. If I ended up figuring it out and eventually get a newer car with better paint, I'd drop the coin for a nicer polisher.
-Rob
Nick Comstock said:
I learned buffing many years ago on a rotary machine. Made some mistakes but got very comfortable with it. I bought a random last year and don't have much time on it but so far I can't get the same level of results with it as I can the old rotary buffer.
Rotary buffing is great for it's cutting speed, but that comes with some draw backs in terms of finishing ability. I think we've all seen cars driving around with buffer trails after a bad rotary job. It's also much easier to burn through on edges, and with modern cars there is generally less material to work with and less safety margin before you do major damage. If you're comfortable with a rotary that is awesome, but I would absolutely steer newcomers away and towards a DA.
rob_lewis said:
Along this lines, I saw that Meguiars has a drill attachment DA polisher kit. For $55, seems like an inexpensive way to get into polishing. Especially for daily drivers, which is why I'm thinking about it. Anyone have experience with it? Meguiar's drill mounted polisher.
-Rob
hybridmomentspass said:
Following this thread because Ive never thought about it before.
Liking seeing the low(er) budget stuff like the $55 Meguiar's attachment (vs the 140 kit posted upstream), but not sure where to start at and if I really NEED somethign like that.
Detailing is a deep dark rabbit hole that you can get sucked into. It really depends on what your goals are and how much you are willing to spend on equipment for convenience and efficiency. That Meguiars attachment will probably do a decent job, but I can already tell it would be more tiring and harder to use than a traditional DA. Speed settings on a DA are important to get a nice consistent finish and can really help dial things in when you have finicky paint. You'll probably be able to achieve 80-95% of what I can do with this kind of equipment, if you dedicate the time and effort into the job. My opinion is detailing is 90% based on the detailer and only 10% based on the equipment and chemicals they use.
So to answer the question, you don't need anything more than some polish and a rag to detail your car. Give it a shot if you are interested. You'll find out quickly if you care to make the investment in more efficient tools, or if you'd rather leave it to a pro.
I think of myself as a fairly advanced amateur detailer. For buffers, I have a Makita 9227 rotary, but I use it sparingly. It can remove a lot, but it can also burn paint and get away from you, because it has serious torque. Unless the paint I'm working with is in pretty bad shape, it stays on the shelf, but when I need it, I'm glad I have it. For more "day to day" type work, the old classic Porter Cable 7424 is my workhorse, and it's my finisher after the Makita does the heavy lifting. For pads, I guy whatever foam pads have good reviews on Amazon, usually Chemical Guys.
As for what products to use, you might as well ask what the best religion is. 
But, generally speaking, Meguiars makes high-quality stuff, and you can find it at most auto parts stores. Plus, you can buy their pro-level stuff (which is often the same thing as retail, but in different packaging) on the House of Bezos. The 105 and 205 compounds are my staples for paint correction. Once that's done, I usually use Jescar Power Lock, as it's easy to apply and seems to last a good long while. Though I have been known to use good old Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax because it's quite a lot cheaper, and also easy to use. My final coat changes, but lately I've been using Turtle Wax ICE Seal n' Shine, which also has a good reputation for longevity.
But the products don't matter nearly as much as the technique. IMO, you have to enjoy this stuff, because it's a lot of work. But for me, spending a nice summer day outside cleaning and detailing one of our cars is good exercise in the fresh air, and when you're done you have something nice to look at. Plus, by protecting the paint you're helping to protect your car and preserve it's value.
I would also recommend going over to the reddit auto detailing forum, they actually have a pretty comprehensive WIKI as well as a weekly thread where you can ask questions (I recently had questions about toppers for ceramic coating on a car I recently purchased that had the ceramic already done, it was super useful). Here's a link to the wiki buyers guide that I like- https://www.howtoautodetail.com/knowledge-base/recommended-kits/ and then the forum itself- https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/
So, how'd the detailing go?
I'm getting the Porsche ready for Radwood this weekend. The paint doesn't need to be buffed, so it's basically been quick detail, synthetic clay bar and then Griot's 3-in-1 ceramic wax. Last night, I did the interior–well, most of it.
Tonight I'll do the rubber, trim and wheels. 
In reply to David S. Wallens :
It hasn't gone anywhere yet, but the buffer kit should be here today. I'll probably start out on my beater Saab 900S - I can't possibly make it worse, and if I do, I don't care that much - before moving to the 128i. I have high hopes that the Black Sapphire Metallic on the latter will really come up with a good detailing.
With the buffer, start mildly and you should do well.
Tim McNair shares some buffer tips in this video.
