DIY Engine Rebuilding?

As I was working on my Exlpoder this weekend, I was thinking about how much I like the old truck, and the fact that with over 200k miles, the possibility of an engine rebuild may be in the future somewhere. I've considered rebuilding it myself, but I've never done one.

My question to the hive -

What specialty tools will I need to effectively rebuild a late Ford 302? I have a well stocked shop, but none of the engine tools.

What machine work has to be done?

I'm basically trying to evaluate cost / value of leaning to do a rebuild myself, gaining a valuable skill and a better engine, verses buying a junkyard, verses a reman, verses a crate.

The motor runs good right now, I'm just preplanning.....in case I need it.....

Other than an engine hoist and ideally an engine stand, the only tools you would need are standard engine repair tools. Ie, sockets, wrenches, ratchet, a good breaker bar, etc. Hopefully you already have everything you would really need if you're contemplating this level of repair. Air or battery impact helps too. The machine work you would want to farm out. A good machine shop would evaluate things and tell you what machine work needs done. At the least I would want to do a valve job with all new valve stem seals. The level of bottom end work needed really depends on the engine. At 238k miles my GS430's bottom end was tight as a drum so I left it untouched when I did the heads. I imagine a Ford 302 pulling a truck around might be a little more worn at that point, but that's not necessarily true.

Ring compressor, Ring spreading pliers, feeler guage, 3/8' and 1/2" torque wrench and a valve spring compressor would be a good start.

I read this guy's info several years ago when I was rebuilding a 351W and he mentioned a book on rebuilding SBF engines (How to Rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines). I subsequently bought the same book and recommend it. It's a little dated and doesn't cover the roller lifter change Ford made in mid-1985 nor the roller lifter-ized 351W but it's still a useful reference to have.

http://www.fast351.com/cartech/enginerebuild/

Not much in the way of special tools needed here, and those that are can usually be rented.

As for machine work, I'd suggest getting it hot tanked and an overbore. Heads hot tanked and inspected. MAybe have them milled if need be and a valve job.

Assembly is the easy part.

I've rebuilt a few. I do a complete teardown and evaluation/measuring so I can communicate what I want with the machine shop. Then I take it to them for machining and I usually let them source the parts unless its a performance build. I could buy a Lunati cam for $200, or just get an inexpensive Melling grind for $40 from the shop. I also don't usually disassemble heads. I just have them do a valve job and magnaflux. It only adds something like $30 for them to disassemble and reassemble, and I really hate assembling valves.

A good thread chaser set is nice to clean up all the threads before taking it to the machine shop. The shop I use chases the threads as part of the deal, but they knock off some money since I do it myself.

Re-assembly isn't bad. I can think of these things you'll need aside from the regular stuff:

1- torque wrench
2- feeler gauges
3- ring gap grinder
4- ring compressor
5- lint-free rags
6- a few cans of brake cleaner (great for making sure things like bearings are squeaky clean)
7- assembly lube. This is important. Don't fall into the "more-is-better" camp. Also, don't fall into the "my daddy used Lubriplate so it must be good" camp. I'm not a machinist, but when it comes to the physics of lubes (that sounds dirty) I can teach these old cats a thing or two.
8- Teflon paste assembly lube. This is for lubing fasteners that need to seal, like head bolts that go into water jackets, intake bolts that go into oily lifter valleys, etc.
9- appropriate gasket adhesives/sealants. I have lots of tech on this as well. Hit me up.
10- a depth dial gauge is really nice for degreeing cams and checking crankshaft endplay.
11- One more tip... have the machine shop chamfer the bores. The extra $20 it costs will pay for itself by not requiring a case of band-aids.

Plastagadge is about the only thing that I don't see on other peoples lists here.

My standard stuff at the machine shop is to have them:

1- hot tank everything
2- appropriate overbore
3- new cam bearings
4- head magnaflux and valve job. They will advise you what the head needs. Sometimes they'll just need a valve job and new seals. Sometimes they'll need guides, valves, seats, springs, retainers, etc. Your exploder should have the GT40 heads which are excellent units.
5- resize main and rod bearings
6- polish crank (or grind and polish if necessary)
7- if you have press-in wrist pins on the pistons, I let the shop do it. They have a special little induction heater that heats the rod so the pin can be put in. Its not easy to do at home. If they are floating pins, they are just retained with a little circlip and you can easily do them at home.

Those things will let you save a BUNCH by disassembling and assembling yourself. You can basically take them your engine in boxes, get back a bunch of clean and machined stuff, and assemble.

Cam bushings need a special pusher. The NAPA guys that deck the block will do it.

dean1484 wrote: Plastagadge is about the only thing that I don't see on other peoples lists here.

I didn't want to be an answer hog.

Moving_Target wrote:

dean1484 wrote: Plastagadge is about the only thing that I don't see on other peoples lists here.

I didn't want to be an answer hog.

Well, to be fair, with a good set of in/out mics, you don't really need it.

Don't forget a factory shop manual for your car, or at least a good aftermarket manual that covers your engine, so you have all the assembly procedures, clearances, and torque values available.

I would suggest letting the machine shop fully assemble the heads, as well as the piston/rod/piston ring assemblies. Then, about the only specialist tool you'll need is a piston ring compressor for installing the pistons in the blocks. As mentioned a torque wrench is required but that shouldn't be considered a specialist tool.

If this is a one time deal, to save money I'd go for the Plastigage instead of micrometers or calipers. The machine shop should set everything up correctly but it's still a good idea to double check bearing clearances.

Don't forget, it's fun! YOU built your motor, not too many "normal" people can say that. And, the first time it fires up, you will get a HUGE rush!.

It's a process. Get a shop manual with all the specs, or find a reliable source with all the specs.

Follow the process. Don't cheat or skip steps. Lubricate everything well.

You shouldn't need many special tools—at least nothing you need to go to the dealer for. Assuming you already have a torque wrench, the most expensive single tool I bought while rebuilding the Subaru engine was a ring file. I spent $50 on a manual one on Amazon. You may not need to enlarge your ring gaps.

The rest of the stuff—feeler gauge, ring compressor and expander, Plastigage—is all available at your local parts store. An engine stand helps. I borrowed one from a friend.

It's a great thing to do. Definitely a car-guy bucket list item. I could've bought a used Miata engine for how much I spent rebuilding mine, but it was a point of pride that I rebuilt it myself, and I learned a new skill.

Keep everything clean and take your time, and you'll do fine.

Good info guys. Yeah, I absolutely am factoring in the 'I did it' part of the equation. I'd really like to say I rebuilt it myself, and I trust my workmanship more than a reman. Plus i could overbore it and put in a towing cam for a little more grunt.

So overall, where do costs fall on the machine work? I know there are a lot of variables, but lets assume I take Stuart's approach and that the crank/block/heads are solid and reusable. Can you guys throw some numbers around so I know I'm not being bent over?

Prices vary all over the place depending on location plus it will depend on how much needs to be done to the engine, so it's hard to hazard a guess, but the good thing is it's a Ford - parts should be relatively inexpensive and easy to find, and any old shop should know how to work on it.

One thing you should consider is do you want to rebuilt that engine? If after you remove it and you find that it's worn out, requiring a re-bore, etc. You may be money ahead if you search out a used engine, or at least a used short block. I have taken 302's apart with over 100K that still had the factory cross hatch pattern in the bores.

All I did was put a fresh set of rings & bearings in it and she was good to go!

Oh, certainly. Used engines are definitely on the radar as well - I just wanted to build my knowledge base on the rebuild process so I could make a fair judgement. As I said, it runs fine now and it may for another 100k, but if not.....

Crap, I just remembered another thing you'll need: BIG trash bags to protect the engine from garage debris before it's buttoned up.

The only other item I might add would be to cost everything out, put a budget together and stick to it. I can't tell you how many times I've seen projects get derailed, mine included when I didn't stay with my plan or budget. It's easy to go overboard sometimes, particularly when folks start throwing in advice on how to make to make it quicker, faster, better, etc...

good tips, and inspiring for another guy like me on the fence of whether if its something I could do, if I wanted to.

i think you can do a 302 with a pair of vise grips, a medium sized channel lock, a hammer, and a tape measure for checking clearances..

edit: oops, almost forgot the most important thing- a tube of silicone..

Do a bit of research... you'd be surprised how targeted machining can really improve things...

Before you buy any part... look into what other mods add value to your parts purchase.

Since this is your first attempt.... read, and re-read each procedure until you can almost recite it. Take your time, if there is something you don't understand... the GRM pool is here to help.

One thing I recommend for first time builders go get a used engine and rebuild it... this allows you to keep the truck running, allowing you plenty of time to do things right...

USE QUALITY parts... poor parts(gaskets/seals/etc.) almost always come back and bite you...

Other than what's listed above, get a gun cleaning kit. Never, ever, EVER trust an engine block that comes back from the machine shop. Remove all oil galley plugs, freeze plugs, etc, and clean the ever loving hell out of the engine with degreaser, scrub the inside of all oil passages with the gun cleaning kit, and with a water hose, but even better a pressure washer, put water pressure to the oil pump boss and follow all the circuits, make sure the water pressure makes it to all bearing holes, lifter galleys, etc. If the water pressure isn't coming out of all the proper places, the oil isn't either. Then immediately dry the block with compressed air and oil it down with WD40, so it doesn't rust.

I learned this the hard way, got a freshly machined 460 Ford back from the machine shop, didn't clean the gallies, assembled it, and the oil pressure blew all kinds of metal shavings and assorted funk right into the bearings, and screwed up the entire engine.

Also, always change the cam bearings when rebuilding a domestic V8, you'd be surprised how many people skip the cam bearings and wonder why they have low oil pressure

dean1484 wrote: Plastagadge is about the only thing that I don't see on other peoples lists here.

Meh.... Someone did a test on Plastigauge vs actual tolerances and it was pretty pathetically inaccurate.

triumphcorvair wrote: The only other item I might add would be to cost everything out, put a budget together and stick to it. I can't tell you how many times I've seen projects get derailed, mine included when I didn't stay with my plan or budget. It's easy to go overboard sometimes, particularly when folks start throwing in advice on how to make to make it quicker, faster, better, etc...

While I agree, this can be taken to extremes. For a first-time builder, its nearly impossible to target and predict every need. I would hate for a builder to spend $800 on tools, parts, and machine work only to skimp on the last-minute gaskets, sealants, and fasteners.