H2 is tossing the following codes. I have read the official GM diagnostic procedures all it talks about is replacement of very expensive components. I saw some video on YouTube about a fix for the clock spring that looked rather simple basically hard wiring things and removing the plastic clip things when I was looking up the codes.

Clockspring shouldn't cause the passenger side code, I would say.

From Alldata:

•DTC B0018 will set when one of the following conditions occur: •I/P module high and/or low circuits is short to ground or short to voltage for 500 milliseconds . •I/P module high circuit is less than 2.4 volts and I/P module deployment loop resistance is less than 6 ohms for 500 milliseconds .

•DTC B0024 will set when one of the following conditions occur: •Steering wheel module high and/or low circuits is short to ground or short to voltage for 500 milliseconds . •Steering wheel module high circuit is less than 2.4 volts and steering wheel module deployment loop resistance is less than 6 ohms for 500 milliseconds .

So- both codes say exactly the same thing, for both sides of the car. Wiring diagrams show the two circuits are independent- drivers wiring in pin12 and 13 of the module, passengers side in pin 9 and 10. Nowhere does it suggest one code setting will induce the other, although the guys who write the diagnostics miss all sorts of stuff, too. Have you cleared the codes and had both of them reset? Does the communication code return immediately, or is it random? The whole issue could be caused by the damn radio, or the electric mirrors, or the heater controls if its shutting down communication for some reason.

Find the module, make sure the wiring hasn't rubbed through somewhere. I'd say there is either a problem with the wiring or connector near the SDM, or the SDM itself is cooked. One of the special tools you need is a connector to replace the airbag with a resistor. They allow you to use an ohmmeter on the circuit without the risk of blowing the bag.

Found this, too- turns out its not for the Hummer, just the Silverado/Sierra. Same sort of idea I'm talking about, though.

1. Check connector C221, a 2 wire 4 cavity connector Instrument Panel (IP) Harness to Body Harness, behind the left kick panel, per bulletin #05-09-41-001B.

2. If OK, install a 2 ohm resistor in place of the driver's frontal air bag, Brown to Tan. Turn key on, recheck SIR lamp.

3. If the light stays on after 7 flashes, try resistors at column base connector, same wires.

4. If the SIR light remains illuminated, inspect the harness to the SDM located under the driver seat.

Yes the codes returned after clearing but not immediately. Took about 3-4 days.

At least it is relatively easy to get at SDM as it is under the LF seat. I bet it got bumped / kicked I am going to have to remove it and inspect the connections.

Also (and I could look this up but if some one knew the answer it would be faster) I assume I should disconnect the battery and let it sit for a while.

Also after thinking about this further I did replace both front impact sensors a couple months ago and every things was good for about a month and then these new codes came up. Would they be related?

If its under the seat, trace the wires until you find the corroded connector. GM isn't the only group of clowns who put computers where they can drown, but they seem to do it better than most.

They say you should shut the key off and let it sit for a minute, but airbags don't blow as easy as the safety nazis suggest.

Impact sensors won't have anything to do with it.

Pulling this up from the dead.

How do you get at the SDM in an H2. If it is under the driver seat do you have to take the seat out? The carpet seems to be continuous under the seat. Anyone done it? Any easy way to do this? I am not sure I have the proper tool to get the seat unbolted. It is a star socket and I don't think I have that here at home.

Thanks

Well answered my own question. Yes you have to pull the seat.

And this is the bad boy that has been causing me all the angst!!!!

So this appears to be a sealed unit with the exception of the port you plug it in to. I set it in the sun for half an hour and then placed it on top of a fan blowing in to it for 15/20 min hoping that if there is any moisture in there that I will get it out. Other than that what else can I do with it except get a new one? @ $300 plus the cost of re programing it I am hoping to at least give it a shot of some sort of fix before I toss in the towel and toss $$$$$ at it.

AND ??????? ?? ? ?

Success!!!!!

After letting it sit on the fan for 20-30 min I cleaned up the connector on both the unit and on the wiring harness and loaded the one on the loom up with dielectric grease as well as coated the rubber seal with it and the pins that I can see going in to the connector (by the rubber gasket on the plug). I am very suspicious that water got in there as it is open to the weather and it would short out the pins that are going in to the connector piece that plugs in to the unit.

Put it all back together re attached the battery and started it up and no more codes!!!!! And the check engine light is not on any more.

My car hates me. Drove it 15 miles or so and then the CEL comes on again. Got the codes and this time it is O2 sensor bank one sensor one. Oh well at lest the SDM issue seems to be fixed.