David S. Wallens said:
Good chatter. Thanks, everyone, for the interest.
Some follow-up comments:
Need it? Who needs any of this stuff? I'm thinking pure emotion (and editorial, of course).
Keith, good point about the Link needing a MAP. Hadn't even gotten that far, but Ed and I figured we'd need to replace the ECU anyway. (And please tell me more about that set that you have stashed away. ) And what do you think about the Jenvey setups? Is that a turnkey solution?
We've discussed bike IRTBs but Ed noted that he could feel the drivability issues from his house. (Which is not near my house as he was making a funny.)
That's the "problem" with the current setup. The engine is totally cold right now. If I turned the key, it would fire right up and then immediately set to a nice idle. No weirdness, no drivability issues--and that's with the Link, the cam gears, the lightened pulley, the aluminum flywheel, the bolt-ons, the headwork, etc., etc. Side note: The engine used to sometimes stall when returning to idle, but replacing the throttle damper seems to have totally solved that issue.
The Skunk2 intake sounds very cool but, sadly, they don't offer it for the 1.6L. Sad face.
The Link works far better than its specifications would imply because it is coded from the ground up to be a Miata ECU. It's baked into the OS, and it makes full use of that meager hardware. But that also means a lack of flexibility to do anything weird, so it can't manage alpha-N. The problem is has with ITBs is that they run in a very narrow vacuum range and the Link has limited resolution in MAP, so it can't really distinguish between cruise and WOT. The Targa Miata ran a Hydra which is far more flexible and was able to handle the ITBs better.
I think the Jenveys would be great on a Miata. You get the vintage look of carbs, it's really different but you can retain modern management and fuel delivery. You'd probably need a Weber adapter from Pierce and then just bolt them on. They're not turnkey because they don't include engine management. Switch to a modern Megasquirt (hello DIY Autotune!) and it could be a great solution with just the right kind of obstacles to be interesting editorially. This would also work very well for CM content, I think.
For idle, cold start, etc, just get Tom to machine a little plenum block to mount the IAC somewhere hidden and feed it vacuum lines from all four runners. Makes a world of difference in real-world driveability and that also gives you a good MAP signal.
Most of the UK crowd are using bike throttles these days, because really they're just butterflies at the end of the day. But they are also willing to accept crap driveability for character, so you do need to filter for that when looking for info.
The set on my shelf is the set that was in the dyno and talky video - some TWMs. Very nicely made with a single casting. Not sure if you can stilll get them, I think Weber owns the brand now.