Yeah, yeah, lots of ammo for jokes there, I'm sure.
Just got DD#1's Impreza back from the body shop, and there is a drip in the clear coat in one spot. I could take it back, but he gave me a deal on the work, and took care of some other cosmetic issues in the bargain. It looks like it would be easy to get one of those drip planes, shave it down, and buff it out... but I've never used one.
Anybody have any suggestions on which tool to buy, and where? TIA.
http://www.emm.com/products/mini-sanding-block/
These work well and wont break the bank.
What you want is called a nib file. They come in 3 or so coarsenesses and work perfectly. They cut nothing other than nibs and runs that are proud of the surrounding field of paint. I've salvaged any number of enamel, base/clear and lacquer jobs with mine. Amazon has singles and sets - I'd suggest get the full set for about $50. You may only need one today, but considering what paint and time are worth, it's a good tool to have. And for cutting back an area that needs flattening vs. just more buffing, Unigrit abrasive paper from Meguiars is awesome and worth the cost.
I saw those and they look interesting. What I was originally considering, though, was just the little plane / block thingy that holds a razor blade. How do those work?
They scare me. I'm well familiar with all manner of planes from a lifetime of woodwork and building model airplanes. The possibility of the blade "digging in" and detaching a the thick part of a run or sag is too great a risk for me. Nib files are relatively slow, but I'm talking maybe 10 or 15 minutes to make a job-ruining mistake invisible. Which is generally about .001% of the time I have invested in the job already.
Duke wrote: I saw those and they look interesting. What I was originally considering, though, was just the little plane / block thingy that holds a razor blade. How do those work?
I think you will still need to sand after that anyway.
motomoron wrote: They scare me. I'm well familiar with all manner of planes from a lifetime of woodwork and building model airplanes. The possibility of the blade "digging in" and detaching a the thick part of a run or sag is too great a risk for me. Nib files are relatively slow, but I'm talking maybe 10 or 15 minutes to make a job-ruining mistake invisible. Which is generally about .001% of the time I have invested in the job already.
OK, sounds good. Thanks for the tips.
Never heard of stuff like this, interesting.... Just may have a use for it.
I have a set of the nib files motomoron mentioned and also one of those razor blade tools. The razor blade tool sucks, oh yes it will dig in.
When using the nib files, I found they work best if the ends of the file part are covered with electrical tape, it keeps the sharp ends from digging in. Also if the paint is real new, like less than two months, I say leave it alone and just watch it, no matter what kind of paint it is it will still be flowing out. On more than one occasion I have had runs and drips mostly flow themselves out.
When you use sandpaper use a very fine grit (1000-1200 grit)and most important a very hard block. Rubber blocks of any type will not do, they flex too much and cause the paper to not contact the paint correctly. I have some aluminum mini sanding blocks that work great on runs, an old time painter showed me some he had made out of wood blocks. The same guy also showed me how to use sandpaper wrapped around a paint stirring stick to really smooth out body filler.
How will this affect the clear coat?
mr2peak wrote: How will this affect the clear coat?
On a base/clear job, the base is so thin and flashes off so quickly there should be zero imperfections before shooting clear. In other words, clear is the vast majority of the total film thickness of a base/clear finish. Any runs, sags or nibs should consist entirely of clear.
Curmudgeon wrote: I have a set of the nib files motomoron mentioned and also one of those razor blade tools. The razor blade tool sucks, oh yes it will dig in. When using the nib files, I found they work best if the ends of the file part are covered with electrical tape, it keeps the sharp ends from digging in. Also if the paint is real new, like less than two months, I say leave it alone and just watch it, no matter what kind of paint it is it will still be flowing out. On more than one occasion I have had runs and drips mostly flow themselves out. When you use sandpaper use a very fine grit (1000-1200 grit)and most important a very hard block. Rubber blocks of any type will not do, they flex too much and cause the paper to not contact the paint correctly. I have some aluminum mini sanding blocks that work great on runs, an old time painter showed me some he had made out of wood blocks. The same guy also showed me how to use sandpaper wrapped around a paint stirring stick to really smooth out body filler.
A little block made of hardwood with the edges relieved just a touch works very well.
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