E36 M3: Decision Time

Opinions Requested.

Use: Not-quite daily driver. Don't need it for work 90% of the time, as I cycle. Love to drive it, except when it niggles me to death. Occasional work trip (~200 miles). Terrible snow vehicle, but I'm in DC, so don't need it that much.

Patient: '95 E36 M3. 160k. Fresh rear suspension from subframe/diff bushings/rtabs/balljoints/control arms/struts. Fresh front struts. Great interior with new headliner. Paint/body: pretty good excepting two cancer issues.

Symptoms:

1. Begins to heat up (caught before red on temp gauge). Diagnosed as fan clutch.
2. Heater intermittent at best. Undiagnosed recent symptom.
3. Cancer: Small spot at back of left rear wheel arch. Two spots on rear valence below trunk. None other.

Remediation:
1. Complete cooling system on order. Will accomplish post-haste to get back on the road.
2. Guibo/transmission mounts next.
3. FCAB next.
4. Cancer: ??

So. None of this addresses the heater, nor the cancer. I am a little weary when I think of the work, time, and $$ I'll put into this in order to get it to right. I am concerned that anything past the cooling system will prove to not be worth it cost/benefit wise. I am considering moving along, but it is so fun to drive.

Do I stick with it, and spend the $2k to get it to 100% (rust repair)? Do I attempt the repair myself? I have about $7k into it (purchase cost plus all suspension rebuild parts, etc), and am loathe to get much deeper, but what say you?

I'll start the bidding at $2000.

According to the interwebs, and all the Bimmer message forums, an E36 M in this state should fetch between 6-9K, Easily.. Don't settle for less..

Put it on the sell block and see what bites you get. That should help you determine your options.

Good Luck!

Not $6-9 with cancer and a cooling issue. That's a $4000 car right there. Since the overheating/no heater could be headgasket related, buying this car would be a real gamble.

If all the issues are fixed, I agree you could look for $6-8K. However you are already $7K in with no guarantee that you can actually fix the car's issues for $1-2000, unless you are doing all the work yourself. There is ALWAYS more rust that you can't see. If you do have a head gasket issue, you will be in really deep.

I would first run a pressure test on the head gasket to make sure it is ok. If it is, then patch up the cooling system and sell it on. Look a little further South and you can find a rust free replacement. I hate rust.

Overheating and intermittent heat sounds like you're low on coolant and/or blowing exhaust bubbles in the coolant. Start with a level check.

i got 20 interwebs that says that fixin the cooling system will magically fix the heat. air bubbles are a bitch in those damn bimmers. suspension only makes it more fun. so do good guibo and trans mounts. i say fix the mechancal stuff, and ta hell with the rust. its just spots, its not like the car is going to rust in half tomorrow. hell, if you soak the undercarraige with gear oil and trans fluid, it will probably be no worse in 10 years. i say fix her, drive her. and buy some snow tires ya cheap bastid!

-J0N

jmthunderbirdturbo wrote: i got 20 interwebs that says that fixin the cooling system will magically fix the heat. air bubbles are a bitch in those damn bimmers. suspension only makes it more fun. so do good guibo and trans mounts. i say fix the mechancal stuff, and ta hell with the rust. its just spots, its not like the car is going to rust in half tomorrow. hell, if you soak the undercarraige with gear oil and trans fluid, it will probably be no worse in 10 years. i say fix her, drive her. and buy some snow tires ya cheap bastid! -J0N

I agree with this. The car isn't worth $7k and you won't be able to replace it's fun factor for what you can sell for + $2k.

Fix the mechanicals up and enjoy it. When the weather improves try to learn how to do a little body work - to atleast stop the spread. There are always box flares to hide your mistakes!

Yeah. What I was thinking I guess. I think I'm in a down spot because of the cold and the prospect of being out in it to fix the issues.

Re: the rust. I already have the back panel to fix that area, and can get the wheel arch panel pretty cheap from BMW. I'm a little antsy about cutting what is otherwise such a sound car, and then the paint.... I've got welder and tools. Might as well quit bitching and get down to business. When I look at it, I'm at the 85% mark for the entire "restoration", and paint and body will just finish it up.

In reply to Teh E36 M3:

Don't discount the flares as a legitimate fix. This is a friend of mine's race car. Sexy, no?

Yeah, but that means I got to go all four corners.... that's a pretty big step when the rest of the car is so clean. Weird, but I've been under it a lot (doing rear suspension/bushings), and there's no rust to be seen.

My opinion is that one shouldn't buy a 19 year old car without expecting to pay a good amount in major repairs or overlooked maintenance by previous owners. But that's just me. I would also suggest that you should buy Evans waterless coolant. You blow out all the water from the block and use no water so the system doesn't overheat. Check out jaylenosgarage.com, he has a couple of videos on it. I will do that to both of my cars when it's time for new radiators.

I don't think the Evans stuff is going to protect against the fan going through the radiator...

I bought it when it was 17, but I get it- thanks for the advice- this isn't my first rodeo though. I'm not going with evans either- I'm sure it works for some people. I put that in the silicone brake fluid (DOT5) category- a solution looking for a problem. Was mainly looking for some commiseration with my best friends I've never met and maybe some confirmation of issues and a way forward I didn't think of, or maybe that advice that is just get out from under it before it eats you alive. Didn't get the latter, and I'll probably put in the time to fix it properly, and practice my bodywork skillz yo.

Leaning toward keeping it- and maybe expanding my driving beyond the occasional commute. Can't remember when I last went for a drive early on a Saturday morning just for the joy of it.

I'd say the big question is if you can find a better condition car for decent money. If you can, it might make sense to sell this one and buy a better one to start out with.

Yeah, it's not that bad though. Seriously, I did a good amount of the hard work- the rear suspension bushings/balljoints is not something I want to do again. Cooling system will be a good day of work. The minor rust will just be an annoyance until I either get up the nerve to DIY or pay someone to fix. That's really all there is.... it truly is in fantastic shape- just a couple things came up at once and sorta irritated me (and I have a niggling CEL on the '02 WRX - P0442 "small evap leak" that will be impossible to find).

Lack of heat could be t-stat stuck open or coolant level, although a refresh wouldn't hurt.

I'd fix the mechanicals first, if the lack of heat isn't something simple I'd do a compression test before digging deeper.

BoxheadTim wrote: I don't think the Evans stuff is going to protect against the fan going through the radiator...

That is what motor mounts are for ;)

Sweet project! get it running and have some fun. Is the car from WA state? Looks like it has WA plates. If it is, and it lived up here for a lot of its life, I wouldn't think you would have any more hidden rust to worry about, Seattle cars have known to have a lil rust but nothing like the East coast. Most areas up here in the NW don't use salt on the roads, and a lot of the state is dry desert.

Our E36 m3 was the best car we ever owned. I'd keep it. It should also be a fantastic winter car with the right wheels and tires.

In reply to Teh E36 M3: Your first post made it seem like you had the car for a year at most. But, what's the deal with silicone brake fluid? I'm not familiar with that.

I've had it for a couple years- just equating the evans coolant to silicone brake fluid- as in a solution that didn't really have a problem to solve. Silicone was supposed to be non-hygroscopic, but in the end, just made mushy brake pedals and required a similar complete flushing of the system to avoid problems if you switched between traditional and silicone.

Not a Washington State car... MD, but I'm military and have WA plates on it. I think I've come around to just putting the fix on it, and enjoying it... even though the wife just asked if it would be better with a newer version (eyebrows raised)... Then I thought "E46, E90, wheee..." until I realized who would be paying for it.

You would be better off with an older version ;)

Keep it, its a fun car.