Duke
UltimaDork
6/11/14 8:29 a.m.
DD#2's beater Celica is just starting to show a bubble at the top of each rear arch. I'd like to nip that in the bud by cleaning up above the fender liner and treating it with something. The question is, what? POR? Something else? Does not need to have any visible finish, just needs to seal off the exposed steel.
Thanks!
If it is showing a bubble the rust is already through the metal, if you clean the backside well enough to get the rust out there will be a hole.
I would use POR15.
Snrub
Reader
6/12/14 1:13 p.m.
POR-15 isn't prefect, but it's good stuff.
Eastwood used to sell a product called Corroless. Not sure they still sell it, but I was pleased with it.
I just did this to my 318ti using Eastwood products. I sanded down all the paint and got to bare metal; some surface rust deeper in the metal was left behind. I then hit it with Eastwood's Rust Converter solution, waited 2 days for it to cure, and coated it with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.
I guess I'll have to report back in a few years to see how it did. The process was really simple and painless though.
Any idea how paint adheres to some of these solutions? I have been doing a lot of reading about autobody work recently and a common theme seems to be don't use rust converters because they will provide problems with paint down the road.
It still sticking so far after 2 weeks and a lot of rain. The instructions on the bottle say spray with Eastwood Rust Converter, cure for 2 days, and top coat with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator or another top coat. All I did to top coat was scuff the surrounding areas, spray wax and grease remover, and then spray Rust Encapsulator.
My wife's Taurus X had some bubbling paint on the inside edge of the rear hatch a couple of years ago. I took it down to bare metal, hit it with Rust Bullet, then Rust-O-Leum primer, then Duplicolor touchup paint spray. Two years later, the rust has not returned. Note, I have also sprayed Fluid Film inside the panel twice since the repair, as well.