SPG123
HalfDork
11/20/24 2:40 p.m.
Actually going a little deeper than just cleaning. Already done most of the cleaning. I am about to strip the tired paint from my Ford Mustang Cobra intake manifold, and from the valve covers. Maybe using oven cleaner if my discount paint stripper is not up to the job. Then sand, prime and probably use high temp (wheel) paint to make them look factory fresh. No clear. although I want it to look like day 2 on this Mustang SSP resto. Also going to paint the equal length shorty headers. Any tips before i dive in?
The last engine I painted got sandblasted and painted using a generic Ford blueish paint to match the shortblock.
Header paint probably won't last.
Have fun!
Mr_Asa
MegaDork
11/20/24 2:51 p.m.
I love oven cleaner on steel parts. De-rusting/de-scaling is also important.
I've found that gently heating the parts in between, and potentially before install/running will help the paint last longer. Find an old oven, put the parts in on "Warm" or 200ish °F
Getting the baked in oils out is also super important. Got an engine rebuilder nearby you can ask to run your parts through the washer? If not, the old oven is useful again, this time at a higher temp and for a longer period.
Scrub, scrub again, then repeat 12 more times. Iron and aluminum are very porous, so expect fisheyes even after copious washing.
Don't use full strength degreaser, it will eat aluminum. Simple Green, Purple Power, etc. Make sure to dilute properly.
For a final prep, I like to use a case of brake cleaner and hose things down.
Send it out for blast and powdercoat and use your time for working on the rest of the project. This sort of stuff is cheap to do on a part basis if you bring enough of them in to the shop
Use zinc chromate primer, or at least self-etching primer, on anything made of aluminum that you're going to paint.
You don't necessarily have to strip all the original paint, if it's still holding on to the metal well you can paint over it. The biggest thing is cleaning it as well as you can. Use the stuff marked as engine paint if you want it to look OEM.
My tip: I painted everything up, it was beautiful factory Cavern Moss Green. I killed a new battery and the starter because there weren't enough grounds. I've added good grounds and the starter is out being rebuilt.
Mr_Asa
MegaDork
11/21/24 8:26 a.m.
DarkMonohue said:
Use zinc chromate primer, or at least self-serving primer, on anything made of aluminum that you're going to paint.
Ooohhh yes. Good tip.
Can usually be found in boat/marine supply shops.
For a couple hundred bucks you can get the headers ceramic coated...if you want it to last, that's probably your best bet.
Mr_Asa said:
DarkMonohue said:
Use zinc chromate primer, or at least self-serving primer, on anything made of aluminum that you're going to paint.
Ooohhh yes. Good tip.
Can usually be found in boat/marine supply shops.
Gack! That was supposed to be self-etching primer. Stupid autocorrect fought me hard on that one.
Another thought: if you want to mask certain areas, like the top of fins on aluminum valve covers, applying a thin layer of schmoo (thick grease, chapstick, etc.) is easier than endless cutting and trimming of masking tape.
SPG123
HalfDork
11/21/24 12:44 p.m.
I - knew- that you folks would know, You know.
SPG123
HalfDork
11/21/24 12:46 p.m.
In reply to ryan_long_01 :
The powder coating and ceramic coating folks in these parts must have some high boat payments. The high prices I have been quoted are why we are painting...
SPG123
HalfDork
11/21/24 12:50 p.m.
In reply to 914Driver :
Be Yoo Tee Full!!! I love that color too. I pass a 37 Chev Coupe every day that is screaming for me to come rescue it.