I suggest leaving the rest of it to him as well. Buy all the parts he says you need and watch him put them in.
I suggest leaving the rest of it to him as well. Buy all the parts he says you need and watch him put them in.
I don't usually work on the truck anyway, so when it comes to the innards of the beast, I'm not touching it. That's why I have toys.
bravenrace wrote: Some of you people really need to learn some things before you spout off about them. I hate to feel the need to qualify myself, but I used to be a certified master technician, and I specialized in alignment and chassis. I've aligned literally hundreds of vehicles of all types. Any alignment issue except toe can cause a pull if it's bad enough. But camber will NOT cause a pull in any vehicle where one side isn't grossly different than the other. In all the vehicles I've aligned, I've never had one with a camber pull. There are differences in how FWD and RWD behave, but alignment theory is the same for both. Toe can't cause a pull under any circumstances. Period. Caster, brakes and tires are the main cause of a pull in 99% of the vehicles. Tire pull is easy to verify in that when you let go of the steering wheel it will jerk to the side it's pulling towards. An alignment pull under the same circumstances will drift when you let go of the wheel. Of couse, you can always swap the front tires, but you don't really have to. VERY few vehicles will pull to the left due to alignment, so if your vehicle pulls to the left it's likely a hung up brake caliper or a tire. If it pulls in both directions and changes over bumps, you have some bad parts in the front end.
very true. and the lack of pulls to the left is due to road crown. to qualify myself. i am an up to date ase master diagnostician (means i took the l1 also) admittedly my speciality is engine performance but i have done my fair share of front end work. rule of thumb is .4 combination of cross camber and caster will make a vehicle drive strait. .6 to the left will cause a pull left on alot of roads(up north there is more crown making it less likely) .2 will drift with road crown. there are always exceptions. for comparison i run my car as follows. toe in of .08 each front total to .16 neg .85 camber 4.7 caster on the left 5.0 on the right rear i run -2.2 camber and toe in of .13 total toe in .26
Thought I should update.
A few months ago I removed the front axle shafts. The universal joints were so bad I could not move them. I replaced the joints and everything is perfect again. On the positive side of things, I feel like an expert on WARN manual hubs.
Uneven caster will cause a pull, as bravenrace mentioned. Cars use to be aligned with uneven camber due to crowned roads.
In reply to Rustspecs13:
I replaced the usual suspects on my 1995 F150 for the same problem. And it didn't fix it!
Turns out it was broken/shifted belts in the passenger front tire.
Too bad all those parts and my labor could've been cured by a $25 tire from the JY.
N Sperlo wrote: Thought I should update. A few months ago I removed the front axle shafts. The universal joints were so bad I could not move them. I replaced the joints and everything is perfect again. On the positive side of things, I feel like an expert on WARN manual hubs.
Save that shaft for bludgeoning zombies!
Tires can make a big difference in the big ass trucks. Jed, fortunately all but the joint were good to go back in. Heavy motherberkeleyers, though.
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