TGMF
TGMF New Reader
11/24/14 10:06 p.m.

So, I've been lurking these forums for several years, watching the builds and cool stuff you creative folks do. Never really needed much, so didn't sign up and haven't posted much when I finally got around to registering. But I need some help now. Here's the deal. My wife drives a 09 ford escape FWD 4 cylinder 2.5. She used to take it to quick lube oil change shops till just recently when we got married. Last time I changed the oil, and the drain plug was stupid hard to remove, and as you'd expect of quick lube, they had over torqued and stripped out the aluminum oil pan. After screwing around to get what I was expecting to be a simple oil change done in a pinch, in the dark, I put a oversized plug in. Of course laying on my back, in the dark, it went in crooked and doesn't seal well. I hate that.

It drips a couple drops here and there, but I lived with it. It is now (5months later) due for a another oil change. Can't stand having it half assed under there, so I bought a new oil pan.

Looks like the trans bell housing bolts go into it, along with the front timing cover. Anyone sneek one of these off and successfully reseal without taking the valve cover/ timing cover off? It's freaking cold out now (already) and I want to know what I'm in for before I crawl under that salt covered road warrior again. Hoping for straight forward, but looks like kind of a pain. Advice?

Edit- so it's duratec... Without the H. Not a Ford guy.

atm92484
atm92484 New Reader
11/24/14 11:20 p.m.

I dropped the pan on my Locost which was Duratec 2.0 powered with a NC Miata transmission and didn't pull the engine. I had to back the bellhousing bolts off several turns so when I wedged something between the block and the housing two there was a ~3/16" gap . This gave enough room to drop the pan straight down. I think I also loosened the engine mounts to give the wiggle room.

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