So the listing states that the door bottoms have rust and one rocker panel. He wants less than 1k for the car so that tells me a few things. (it's not running either).
Is this a pit of tuna-saga like repair waiting to happen? (i.e. the next ten years of working late into the night to try get the rust fixed?)
Is it worth rebuilding the stock engine or should I budget out an ls swap already?
I've always loved how these cars look ever since I bought my 350z and did research on z history.
Picture of said car.
My opinion is a Z car is one of those cars that you want to buy the absolute best one you can find.
Yeah, unless you're genuinely interested in taking on a complete restoration, I say pass.
That will probably make my truck look rust free, are you in the mood for a rust repair project?
I've always wanted one though.
That is a 10 years working late into the night restoration job unless you can spend 40 hours a week working on it.
My 240z was (is) in about the same shape as the 260 you posted. I would say go for it but only if you are willing to do quite a bit of rust repair. These cars rust in the weirdest places.
Does it come with a lifetime supply of tetanus shots?
That just looks like an unfinished project waiting to happen. It's going to be a serious time and money bandit.I would try to find something a little better.
Yes, the paint is shot, but I'm wondering how everyone is able to tell how much rust the car has from that one photo.
I saw that one on my weekly CL search last night, haha. It's not from the photo, it's from the description. I was looking at Z's a while back and sent a message to AZHitman (from: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/1972-datsun-240z-resto-mod-meet-bella.html ). Here's his response. The one I was looking at was in worse shape and had more pictures but it was still in bad shape. His advice is better than any I could give.
AZHitman said: As far as that particular car goes, it's a stretch at $500. The rust is insurmountable - even an AZ-born Z with a little rust is a PITA to fix, primarily because the metal was so crummy to begin with... I burned a LOT of holes through the stock metal trying to weld in patch panels, and my car had 2" rust spots, not HUGE holes. If the floors are rotted, the "frame rails" (which are thin stamped steel) are also long gone. That also means the strut towers are compromised. The 70-74 cars are notoriously "sloppy" anyway, with weak structure that requires reinforcing - and even then, you're welding to tissue-paper steel. You'd be better off with a west-coast shell, with no rust. Sure, you'll spend $2k shipping a dry, clean shell to GA - but you'll save $3k in repairs right there. Once you're ready, look for a 77-78 and put some early bumpers on it - no one can tell the difference, and it's a much more solid basis for a build. In fact, I just picked up a 77 shell in CA for $1k that I'm going to use to REDO our blue Z, because even after all my work, it still twists, creaks and groans.
stuart in mn wrote: Yes, the paint is shot, but I'm wondering how everyone is able to tell how much rust the car has from that one photo.
You've never owned one, have you? :D
i'd buy it for the spoiler.
seriously though, my car was from VA. nice doors, quarters, rockers had barely any rust. it had to have new floors and frame rails put in.
A Z car for under a thousand? In twenty years, it might be worth 20x that, as-is. Yeah it's not a 240, but once that market is more mature, people will begin seeking out the 260 and later 280s.
Mostly looking as a "fun" project to work on for the next few years that I'll enjoy to drive when I'm done.
Mad_Ratel wrote: Mostly looking as a "fun" project to work on for the next few years that I'll enjoy to drive when I'm done.
Buy a nice one and spend your time fixing the little things it needs.
If you buy a basket case, you'll be buried in it for the next 5 - 10 years and probably sell it out of frustration before it's anywhere near finished.
Frame rails are the big issue with these. You just don't see those anymore up here in the northeast.
If you buy a basket case, you'll be buried in it for the next 5 - 10 years and probably sell it out of frustration before it's anywhere near finished.
Or talk him down to <$300 and build a Lemons car
classicJackets wrote: I saw that one on my weekly CL search last night, haha. It's not from the photo, it's from the description. I was looking at Z's a while back and sent a message to AZHitman (from: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/1972-datsun-240z-resto-mod-meet-bella.html ). Here's his response. The one I was looking at was in worse shape and had more pictures but it was still in bad shape. His advice is better than any I could give.AZHitman said: As far as that particular car goes, it's a stretch at $500. The rust is insurmountable - even an AZ-born Z with a little rust is a PITA to fix, primarily because the metal was so crummy to begin with... I burned a LOT of holes through the stock metal trying to weld in patch panels, and my car had 2" rust spots, not HUGE holes. If the floors are rotted, the "frame rails" (which are thin stamped steel) are also long gone. That also means the strut towers are compromised. The 70-74 cars are notoriously "sloppy" anyway, with weak structure that requires reinforcing - and even then, you're welding to tissue-paper steel. You'd be better off with a west-coast shell, with no rust. Sure, you'll spend $2k shipping a dry, clean shell to GA - but you'll save $3k in repairs right there. Once you're ready, look for a 77-78 and put some early bumpers on it - no one can tell the difference, and it's a much more solid basis for a build. In fact, I just picked up a 77 shell in CA for $1k that I'm going to use to REDO our blue Z, because even after all my work, it still twists, creaks and groans.
This right here is everything you need to know.
A Z-enthusiast friend of mine described it best. The Japanese looked at British sports cars and made one that does everything better, including rust.
Just from the picture, I'd assume that car is rusty underneath. There's no air in the tires and it's parked over dirt. I doubt they rolled it out there just for that beauty shot. I'd love to have an early Z car and own a welder, but would never touch one with significant rust.
Having clicked thru the restoration saga of a guy in Sweden? I decided that if I were to get a Z car it would be rust free before I got my hands on it. It's crazy where these cars rust where you can't even check realistically before buying. The guy put his on a Rotisserie and patched so many areas and reinforced the whole chassis.
clutchsmoke wrote: Having clicked thru the restoration saga of a guy in Sweden? I decided that if I were to get a Z car it would be rust free before I got my hands on it. It's crazy where these cars rust where you can't even check realistically before buying. The guy put his on a Rotisserie and patched so many areas and reinforced the whole chassis.
Came here to say this. Unless it will be a "save the J-tin" effort, or a track prepped car, don't bother. My 260 was incredible though. L28 with a diesel maxima crank to stroke it. "Silver dollar" flat top Pistons, n42 head, Schneider race cam, header, and the icing on the cake? Triple MIKUNI carbs. The manifold and carb set up isn't even made anymore. It got wrecked by a drunk dickhead in a corolla one Saturday morning. (A hit and run at that!)
clutchsmoke wrote: Having clicked thru the restoration saga of a guy in Sweden? I decided that if I were to get a Z car it would be rust free before I got my hands on it. It's crazy where these cars rust where you can't even check realistically before buying. The guy put his on a Rotisserie and patched so many areas and reinforced the whole chassis.
Project Binky comes to mind………..
Someone needs to start stamping out complete replacement body shells for early Z's alá the dynacorn ponycar reproduction bodies.
I'd love an early Z, but I've given up hope in finding a viable one, I think I'm about 2 decades to late.
Problem is they are unibody cars. So if they stamp the whole freaking body out, it probably wouldn't be worth it.
That being said, if I bought another one (that would be number five for me...) I would buy one that has been immaculately kept, or refinished. They are easily had for 15k, and that's a bargain when you consider you don't have the fight rust or 40years of hillbilly redneck tuning.
Mad_Ratel wrote: Picture of said car.
I fully support the concept of the "Collectable Japanese Car". As someone who firmly believes that it is inevitable, I can see that there will come a day when almost every remaining hulk of an S30 is worth saving.
Today is not that day, dude.
OTOH, if you can weld, and someone like Black Dragon is making repro floors & rockers, I would love to see you prove me wrong!
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