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DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) MegaDork
11/8/24 8:58 p.m.

I can't find a shipping weight for this or their Camaro version, but for a guess I looked up 2x4x 14 gauge tube....3.26 lb/ft. 30 or 40 feet of tube would do it. Then you offset that with removing the front cross member and put lighter front suspension, lighter exhaust, etc. I can see it remaing at close to stock weight. Interesting concept.

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
11/8/24 9:24 p.m.

I don't see anything on the "options" list as being optional to the build. So the $16k is a bit of a teaser.

What would be a good guess for a driving car if you started from scratch? Your first purchase would have to be a Mustang of sufficient quality to deserve this chassis. 

Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter)
Tom_Spangler (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand UltimaDork
11/8/24 9:49 p.m.
Noddaz said:

What needs to be changed to fit other Fox body platforms?

Building a TBird could be...  Well, you know.

earlybroncoguy1
earlybroncoguy1 Reader
11/9/24 6:06 p.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

One good thing about Fox body Mustangs is that Ford made a BUNCH of them. And a bunch of the ones they made were 4 cylinder/V6 models, which didn't get near the abuse that V8's did. Notchbacks, hatchback, convertibles, SVO's - lots and lots of them. Since the only thing that I would probably use for "theoretical" project would be the body shell, any of them would make a possible donor.

Now, I owned (and daily drove, and raced) an '88 5.0 LX hatchback for many years, so I'd probably go with a notchback body this time. Find a 4 cylinder car that got parked due to mechanical issues and has sat, pick it up cheap, remove all the drivetrain, plop it on the Roadster Shop chassis with baby 'Zilla engine, Tremec 6 speed, and relive my sordid youth.     

  

MadScientistMatt
MadScientistMatt UltimaDork
11/9/24 6:45 p.m.

This looks more like a set of subframe connectors, K-member kit, and rear suspension package that happens to be able to roll around on its own instead of a full strength ladder frame. Or how a Miata has that part that connects its front and rear subframes even though the body provides the real stiffness.

A 401 CJ
A 401 CJ GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
11/10/24 11:04 a.m.
pinchvalve (Forum Supporter) said:

So, you have the weight of the unibody and the chassis? And you raise the body up by putting it on a chassis? Seems odd, but it sounds like they thought of that and came up with a pretty good solution. I applaud anyone keeping the beautiful notchback Fox body on the streets for another few decades. 

That's my all-time favorite Fox.  My favorite Mustangs are Fox.  Ergo: that's my all-time favorite Mustang.  wink

Tom1200
Tom1200 PowerDork
11/10/24 9:29 p.m.

In reply to A 401 CJ :

With each passing event I like my Foxbody Mustang more and more.

GCrites
GCrites Dork
11/11/24 9:55 a.m.

What would happen if I tried to turn it into an SN95 instead?

STM317
STM317 PowerDork
11/11/24 10:51 a.m.

More options are better. And Roadster Shop puts out some really impressive quality stuff. But man it's pricey.

$16k starting point? Likely over $25k with brakes, suspension, differential, etc?

You can get the Maximum Motorsports full Grip Box for $6800. It comes with:

- strut tower brace and weld-in subframe connectors

- tubular front k member/control arms with improved geometry and 40 lb weight loss

- Coilovers

- panhard bar, torque arm, sway bars, etc

 

Everybody says they're the best in the business, and they look the part, but nobody ever does any kind of comparison tests, and for the premium pricing I'd want to see some justification. I've lusted after Roadster Shop full builds for a long time, but I'd need to see some really convincing evidence that their "off the shelf" product was WAY superior to existing packages to justify spending 2.5-3 times as much as other proven aftermarket companies.

maschinenbau
maschinenbau GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
11/11/24 12:17 p.m.

In reply to STM317 :

I think you just signed up GRM to track test one of these smiley

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