bravenrace wrote: I almost bought a '91 LX 5.0 with a 5-spd new. Then I took it on a 2 hour test drive, and realized how tired my left leg was from the clutch. It was pretty much all city driving, so take that for what it's worth.
your leg would adapt...
Ive never driven a stock clutch (that was working properly) that was tiring in my whole career of working on other people's cars. That's a lot of cars..
Vigo wrote: Ive never driven a stock clutch (that was working properly) that was tiring in my whole career of working on other people's cars. That's a lot of cars..
then don't use the clutch so much... use it only when you are starting to move.. you can shift up and down without a clutch..
The stock clutches are pretty light. Usually if it has high clutch pedal effort, there's a junk adjustable clutch cable setup. Replace with the Maximum Motorsprts adjustable quadrant kit with a Ford cable, and the effort goes back to stock levels.
Even in traffic, I never found the clutch effort to be unreasonable. If you are in stop and go traffic, the torque is your friend.
novaderrik wrote:Vigo wrote: Ive never driven a stock clutch (that was working properly) that was tiring in my whole career of working on other people's cars. That's a lot of cars..then don't use the clutch so much... use it only when you are starting to move.. you can shift up and down without a clutch..
Your synchronizers must love you.
aussiesmg wrote: How many miles a day? Manual V8 cars make a great DD, but are you looking for big power, because stock they don't make much. Are you looking for handling, see above All is easily fixed with bolt on parts or savvy shopping in the first place Some things matter more than others, ie: weld in frame rail connectors are essential http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/86-mustang-challenger-build/41304/page1/
What he said, especially the part about subframe connectors!
Mostly stock = mostly cheap and reliable yet still enjoyable. 
The only clutch issue I ran into with my 2.3L hatch was the aluminum bearing retainer that the throwout bearing rides on developing a ridge and making it impossible to fully release the clutch. The '93 has a bellcrank arrangement and there is a little cable that connects the bellcrank to the fork. I broke several of those little cables before I figured out what the issue was.
I cheaped out and just filed the ridge down instead of buying the steel bearing retainer but it's been fine so far. Late Model Restoration wanted ~$50 (crooks!) at the time for the little cable and since I couldn't find them in the HELP! blister packs locally, I just used a 1/4" bolt and lock nut.
I agree, subframe connectors will definitely make the car feel more solid.
then don't use the clutch so much...
I think you misread my post. 
Vigo wrote:then don't use the clutch so much...I think you misread my post.
nope.. if it doesn't work properly, then don't use it.. i got really good at driving my 98 Cavalier when the fluid would leak out of the throwout bearing and make it inoperable..
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