Should I look or run? It's a 95, manual. 2 set of tires (summer and winter). 145K? miles. Sub $1k asking price
Should I look or run? It's a 95, manual. 2 set of tires (summer and winter). 145K? miles. Sub $1k asking price
Sub $1K? go buy it.
It's a 4-lug so it's a 2.0 ABA 4-cylinder 8-valve, and the mechanicallly shifted 020. there's always 4-5 drivetrain donors in the local Wayland LKQ for cheap parts for this chassis.
It'll get 30mpg highway.
I'm in GR if you want a second set of eyes on it from a VW guy. The biggest problem with mk3's is usually rot in these parts. Strut towers will blow out and floor boards/rockers get big holes with Michigan rust. If that is in any way a recent picture, that looks plenty clean enough to stay together.
What's wrong with it? That's a ~$2K+ car at 145K in proper running condition.
Personally, Mk III's do nothing for me. Much of the weight of a Mk IV, but without the industry standard setting interior. But also not known as much for electrical gremlins and the price seems decent. I guess it depends on what you want it for. I see that car and think, "rally-crosser.." but that's me.
xflowgolf wrote: Sub $1K? go buy it. It's a 4-lug so it's a 2.0 ABA 4-cylinder 8-valve, and the mechanicallly shifted 020. there's always 4-5 drivetrain donors in the local Wayland LKQ for cheap parts for this chassis. It'll get 30mpg highway. I'm in GR if you want a second set of eyes on it from a VW guy. The biggest problem with mk3's is usually rot in these parts. Strut towers will blow out and floor boards/rockers get big holes with Michigan rust. If that is in any way a recent picture, that looks plenty clean enough to stay together. What's wrong with it? That's a ~$2K+ car at 145K in proper running condition.
I might take you up on that. I guess it's up in Cedar Springs. Some rust showing on the hatch and a loud (not rice) exhaust.
They are prone to rust in the floor pans under the driver/passenger seats. Other than that, I'd rock it too!
Grtechguy wrote: Good winter cars? I need something before snow flies again.
heck yes! 14" snow tires are cheap. This was my winter beater a couple years ago, out ice racing with Furrin Group. Was lowered on an H&R cup kit and still tore through the snow on my 65 mile+ commute all winter.
I only replaced it because I finally found a smoking deal on a TDI. 'twas a great beater.
Grtechguy wrote: Good winter cars? I need something before snow flies again.
With snow tires or decent (newish) all-seasons, my TDI is awesome in snow. I'd imagine a gasser Golf would be similar.
Grtechguy wrote: What about timing belts? easy job?
non interference, pretty simple, make sure you align the distributor. People don't, berkeley up their timing
Grtechguy wrote: What about timing belts? easy job?
yes. easy and cheap. it's on the accessory side of the motor, so no trans pulling nonsense like VR6 cars.
Also 8V's are generally non interference engines, so timing alignment as a DIY is less scary.
ABA will bend the valves when the timing belt breaks, the older ones probably not. Its not too hard to change though. 99% chance the clutch is shot, and probably 50% chance the transmission has problems, especially with reverse. Other than that it probably needs new front a-arm bushings and strut mounts, but quite possible the rest of it isnt too bad.
You are in Michigan? Defiantly check for RUST. Saw a NY Jetta that had rust through in the ROOF.... So check strut towers, floors, bottoms of doors. Rear hatch and rockers for rust...
In reply to Grtechguy:
Forged rods and a strong possibility of a forged crank in an iron block engine.
They boost just fine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpftTrwbG9U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UybkYI3pqYA&feature=related
I think the G-lader supercharger from the G60 will bolt right to that engine if you score the bracket, too.
Ditto floor and tower rot.
Aba breaking a timing belt on a stock cam wont bend valves 9/10 times. I have snapped 3 over 6k rpm and it ran great after a new belt.
DukeOfUndersteer wrote:Grtechguy wrote: What about timing belts? easy job?non interference, pretty simple, make sure you align the distributor. People don't, berkeley up their timing
I nearly had that issue on my '91 cabby when I changed the timing belt. Didn't realize that the dizzy worked that way at first. Got it all back together the right way in the end.
To the OP that looks like a nice car for <$1k to me.
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