In reply to Type Q:
Nice, thanks! What club do you run with? I came in at the tail end of the season, but there seems to be about 5000 different clubs. I got a day in with ESCA, though they're not really based in San Francisco.
In reply to Type Q:
Nice, thanks! What club do you run with? I came in at the tail end of the season, but there seems to be about 5000 different clubs. I got a day in with ESCA, though they're not really based in San Francisco.
accordionfolder wrote: In reply to Type Q: Nice, thanks! What club do you run with? I came in at the tail end of the season, but there seems to be about 5000 different clubs. I got a day in with ESCA, though they're not really based in San Francisco.
I generally autocross with SCCA. I have also run with UFO, and the American Autocross Series. There is a lot going on here.
Now that I think about it, If you are getting the car ready for a track day, I suggest starting with Roger Kraus. I think you'll get an alignment that matches the track and your talent level. 
accordionfolder wrote: In reply to DaveEstey: It does seem to indeed work well there. Now if only the nut behind the wheel were better.... ;) In reply to Keith Tanner: Huh, you're much better at your google foo than I. Thanks, I'll give them a ring.
Wasn't google. Was experience. The guys know their stuff.
I have my EG Civic with some 650s up front and 750s in the rear, ZERO camber in the rear, no rear sway (still trying to find some), rear drums. I have zero oversteer under braking, though I do have some turn-in understeer.
In reply to Type Q: I'm working on that talent level thing! That's what track days and autoX's are for :D
In reply to Keith Tanner: Even better!
Looks like I'll give Roger Kraus a visit. 2 recommendations ftw.
In reply to DukeOfUndersteer: Sounds like I need to figure out what the alignment on the car is and move from there. The car is completely gutted in my case, I supposed that could add a little bit to the equation.
In reply to accordionfolder:
Yea, mine is a coupe (more rear weight than a hatch?) and has full interior. I would check rear toe, maybe even if you have a bad wheel cylinder. I had one go on the left rear drum, made it kinda twitchy under hard braking.
The last chariot of god I drove would oversteer if you lifted, let alone braked. The trick was to left foot brake and drive it like a hyperactive Porsche. REALLY fast when done correctly, hence the name.
Hey, just in case nobody mentioned it - I think it's the alignment. 
In reply to DaveEstey: Got it. My hatch is really a Porsche which is really a VW beetle which makes me a neo nazi? Right?
But seriously. I would love to put a fast driver in my car and have them tell me what's what. I'm a visual learner anywho. I just got a passenger seat put in, and the new harness is coming in this week. Next autoX season I should be able to toss a fast fwd person in and see what they think. Maybe find someone who wants to co-drive for an event or two.
In reply to Matt B: lol, yeah, that's what I have discerned.
Well, I think the alignment suggestion has been sufficiently covered. But before getting an alignment, I would suggest giving the entire rear suspension a thorough once-over to ensure everything is in tip-top shape. Every joint, and every structural member, to the best of your ability. This is wise to do before a track event anyways. However an alignment will be a complete waste of money if other parts are worn out or damaged, and allowing the alignment to wander under braking.
While it doesn't sound like rear lockup is your issue, as you would probably be able to feel it, another thing to watch out for besides balance is simply the inherent nature of drum brakes. Depending on design, drum brakes can have a self-energizing force causing them to over actuate. Even brand new cars with rear drum brakes and ABS can try to lock up the rears in certain situations. The rear disc conversion should sufficiently cover this.
From years of driving a FWD car. Brake hard in a straight line and then trail brake if the turn is long. From high speed, never ever brake hard after turning. then again, depending on available traction, a light brake application can help turn in.
From years of driving a FWD car. Brake hard in a straight line and then trail brake if the turn is long. From high speed, never ever brake hard after turning.
All my FWD experience has been in classic Minis. So let me edit that to fit my experience...
iceracer wrote: never ever brake
You'll need to log in to post.
