BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
7/27/13 1:00 p.m.

tl;dr - current NA has a lot more accident damage than expected, but still tracks straight. I keep discovering more and more issues. Continue building or get a better one?

When I bought my NA, I knew it had suffered from some "minor front end damage" and the PO changed out some sheet metal (front hood and fenders).

Trouble is, the more I work on the car the more problems I find, starting with the wiring, the fact that it appears to have had some repairs to at least one of the rear quarter panel (that one is attached to the rockers in a decidedly unfactory manner), the trunk floor has traces of a repaired hit to the back that aren't visible from above but which explain why the rear bumper doesn't fit 100% and doesn't match the paint properly, either. I also noticed recently that the door gaps aren't even all the way around. Oh, and it had some suspension damage (bent arms) that I fixed with a bunch of used parts from FM.

It does have a clear title and a clear Carfax, though...

The mechanical side of things is OK so far, the compression on the engine is OK but uneven and the gearbox is a bit so-so. I'm also guessing it'll want a new clutch soon.

Now, I've got a bunch of tasty parts that are partially on the car and partially in the garage (Blackbird Fabworx rollbar, Maxim Works header, supercharger, FM Vmaxx suspension, FM butterfly brace and some smaller stuff, a couple of ARC intake chambers and probably more parts I can't currently remember).

Main use for the car is as a nice weather driver and a track car.

Given that this car has been fighting me all the way so far and hasn't been on the track very often (mainly because it tends to need work every time I take it out) I'm beginning to wonder if I should continue sinking money into it.

I have a new front bumper cover that needs to go on the car (old one is damaged, no idea why the %/)/$%!###!!!! PO put it back on) and at that point I'll probably try to change out the front fenders for used OEM ones (the ones on there are E36 M3ty aftermarket ones) and replace the hood (another E36 M3ty aftermarket part). None of this is strictly necessary and I wouldn't do that if I was in Spec Pinata (car is definitely straight enough for that) but I'm trying to build a nice "tuner Miata" here with all the bits that I really wanted to put on one in the past.

So, the options as I see it are:

Fix the current NA:

  • Fix the remaining visible body damage
  • Get the car vinyl wrapped or painted. Painted in the OEM color is going to run me close to $5k at a good local bodyshop, the wrap is going to be about half that
  • Get a new windshield (old one is badly pitted)
  • Hold my nose about the remaining body damage and bolt the rest of the parts on, drive the snot out of it and hope that I'll work my way around all the broken bits over time

I'm guessing this option is going to cost me probably about another $3k in parts and wrapping and a lot of wrenching time, I'll end up with a car I know but OTOH I don't think that the the mechanical side will run for much more than another couple of years before that needs attention, too, sooner if I bolt on the s/c. Plus, I can most likely forget the rest of this years track season unless I'm willing to risk the CRX.

Buy another NA, as most of the cool parts I have are NA specific:

  • Get a better one (dare I say a good one?), take it to LA to Moti and have him fit a six-point bar
  • Swap all the other cool parts over from my current NA, then sell that cheap-ish with the mostly stock parts and the roll bar in it

I'm probably going to look at about $5k for a nice Miata plus something like $1k-$1500 for the rollbar, but all the other expensive stuff I have will simply swap over. I'm pretty sure I can get around $3k for the existing Miata when it's back to almost stock with the issues disclosed because they're mainly issues if (a) you're as picky as I am and (b) more of a problem on the track

Buy an NB, because they're newer and hopefully in better shaped:

  • This option would require me to rebuy a lot of the parts, the one major component that will swap over is the suspension but everything else I have is NA specific
  • For this option I'd probably go later NB with VVT, forget about the SC and just do the header+ exhaust and go ITB
  • Oh, and I get to drive to LA again and have Moti fit a six-point bar

This is likely to be the most expensive option, the later NBs still run 7k-10k out here (or I can try to get a salvage title Mazdaspeed for similar money), plus I need at least new seat mounts to transfer the fake Brides I have into this car (or get new seats also). So I'd have to part out the existing NA stash (which is probably going to net me between $1k-$2.5k, sell the NA and start from scratch.

The "Exocet donor" option has been considered, but that one would be more appealing if I had more faith in the mechanical side of the car. It's also even more costly than the "get an NB" option.

Which option would you take and why?

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/27/13 1:32 p.m.

Since you're not in the mood to rescue a needy car, the salvage Mazdaspeed option is a poor one.

I don't follow why "buy a different NA" requires a Moti-installed $1500 bar. Why not transfer the bar you already have?

I'd go for the nice NA option. Assuming you like NAs more than you like NBs. If not, then get the NB.

Adrift
Adrift New Reader
7/27/13 1:32 p.m.

My thoughts.

1 Buy good NA. They are still out there for about what you estimated (I bought one last fall). You don't state why you went with an NA in the first place but there must have been a reason. You have a plan and all the parts; so less horse trading.

2 Buy an NB. Newer everything and better everything (this can be debated). Better tunability with VVT, etc. Personally, I like the NB a lot but the NA is more "classic".

3 Keep current NA. From your post, I don't see you being satisfied just living with/fixing the issues with the current car. On the track, you need to be comfortable that the car (and you) will survive or it's no fun.

Good luck in your decision.

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
7/27/13 1:39 p.m.

I don't necessarily mind rescuing needy cars, the problem is that at the moment I have too many of those already, plus a lack of time. I've been futzing about with this thing for close to two years now and managed to get 2 1/2 track days in so far. Out of 11, and it's cramped my "racing career" - I wanted to move to SCCA CT/TT this year but with the car mostly broken after every outing I don't have the on-track confidence for that. It's never big things, but it's usually enough to require some of my non-ample spare time before I can go back on the track.

Yes, I can transfer the bar I already have, but that would mean I'd end up with the cut-up interior and no way to cover that up unless I go buy at least a new used set of brown interior C-post panels. So I figured I'll use it as a selling point and have a six-point bar in the next car...

I do prefer the looks of the NA and haven't had an NB so far (the current Miata is my fourth NA if I counted them right - might be #5). Plus I mostly know my way around an NA, even though I understand that the NB isn't that much different under the new skin. The NB idea mainly came from the fact that they are a bit newer and it might be easier to find a nicer one.

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
7/27/13 3:35 p.m.

Use the uncut parts from the new NA to replace the cut ones from the old NA. Voila.

clownkiller
clownkiller Reader
7/27/13 5:36 p.m.

Take off all the good bits off the current NA, replace with stock, sell it. Buy a super clean 1995 early build car. No OBD2 or ABS to deal with. I have a March build, and a July build 95's and the earlier car looks better. Pick the color you want, options and buy it. A super clean car can save you $5000 at the body shop.

your Goal:

"I'm trying to build a nice "tuner Miata" here with all the bits that I really wanted to put on one in the past."

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=1995&zip=89702&listingType=used&listingTypes=used&maxPrice=18999&mmt=[MAZDA[MIATA[]][]]&vehicleStyleCodes=CONVERT&modelCode1=MIATA&makeCode1=MAZDA&startYear=1994&showcaseOwnerId=0&searchRadius=500&bodyStyleCodes=CONVERT&listingId=348196537&listingIndex=2&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=1995&zip=89702&listingType=used&listingTypes=used&maxPrice=18999&mmt=[MAZDA[MIATA[]][]]&vehicleStyleCodes=CONVERT&modelCode1=MIATA&makeCode1=MAZDA&startYear=1994&showcaseOwnerId=0&searchRadius=500&bodyStyleCodes=CONVERT&listingId=349235454&listingIndex=1&Log=0

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=1995&zip=89702&listingType=used&listingTypes=used&maxPrice=18999&mmt=[MAZDA[MIATA[]][]]&vehicleStyleCodes=CONVERT&modelCode1=MIATA&makeCode1=MAZDA&startYear=1994&showcaseOwnerId=0&searchRadius=500&bodyStyleCodes=CONVERT&listingId=351298047&listingIndex=3&Log=0

Ian F
Ian F PowerDork
7/27/13 7:36 p.m.

I also vote for "ditch and switch". That's basically where I'm at with my E30. It's been so needy during my ownership I'm afraid to drive it. Here's to hoping I'll have better luck next time.

petegossett
petegossett GRM+ Memberand UberDork
7/27/13 9:56 p.m.
BoxheadTim wrote: tl;dr - current NA has a lot more accident damage than expected, but still tracks straight. I keep discovering more and more issues. Continue building or get a better one?

Tim, these three sentences describe the exact situation I was in a few months ago. I've know for years that my '96 had taken a hit to the right-front, and the rear bumper cover had been repainted, although there was no other sign of collision damage in the rear. But the more I worked on the car, the more I discovered issues that concerned me: the front end shifted slightly to the left, right-rear ride height needed to be jacked up much higher than the other 3-corners to get the car level, etc.

I had intended to drop a couple hundred to get it on a frame jig, and then decide if it needed straightened and/or what the cost would be, then also get a good autocross alignment, and go from there trying to sort the car. Unfortunately, due to scheduling I wasn't able to get it on a jig before I had the alignment scheduled(which was the day before an event). It took a couple events to sort it out, but I'm so happy with the car now. I no longer have to worry about what the car is going to do next - it's always planted, yet still rotates very well. Now I can just focus on my driving!

Ultimately it's your time/money/effort, but I wouldn't give up just because you know the car has a history of damage. If nothing else, see if you can get it checked on a frame jig - but it may not even be worth the trouble.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
7/28/13 12:50 a.m.

I vote for the exocet option

Alan Cesar
Alan Cesar Associate Editor
7/28/13 1:30 a.m.

Tl;dr

The automotive world is full of options. Explore a different model, or even - gasp - a different make.

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
7/28/13 10:19 a.m.

In reply to petegossett:

I did a "poor man's frame check" a while back when I had issues fitted the EGR roll bar to ensure that it was the rollbar that was out of shape and not the car itself. The basic structure is fine, it's the shoddy work done by previous owners and mechanics that is annoying the heck out of me.

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
7/28/13 10:24 a.m.
Alan Cesar wrote: Tl;dr The automotive world is full of options. Explore a different model, or even - gasp - a different make.

BURN THE HERETIC .

Actually, I'm wondering about that and had a little look around the local CLs as to what's available. A little more interior space and a few more horsies under the hood would be nice, even though I have all the bits for the Miata with the exception of a belt tensioner to make it produce a little more power.

I might be tempted by an FC, a second gen MR2 or maybe a 924S...

Either one of the above is available for 3k-3.5k around here unless I want an FC TII, but those seem to be much rarer over here than they are in Europe.

One of the big advantages I see with Miatas is the plentiful aftermarket, but TBH all I really need is good suspension and maybe a better intake and exhaust to get started. And seat mounts, because it's much easier to buy some off the shelf rather than get some made.

Maybe the fact that I like Meotters but get frustrated with them after a year or two should tell me something.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
7/28/13 8:49 p.m.

Ditch and switch. Want my mazdaspeed?

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
7/28/13 9:20 p.m.

I don't think I want to trade it for another headache .

A 944S in what looks like decent condition has shown up close to work so I might have a look at it in the next couple of days.

One issue with the ditch & switch is that I've already sold the number of vehicles I'm allowed to under NV law - I can only sell three vehicles a year up here without a dealer's license. So I have to wait until next year until I can offload the Miata, but I'd need the cash to buy another car. And of course, to get a dealer's license I need to have a proper "place of business".

So I guess I'm stuck with this car for the remainder of the year at the very least.

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