psychic_mechanic
psychic_mechanic Dork
6/4/12 6:47 p.m.

I'm trying to do a trans swap on a protege, but the drivers side CV axle seems to be fused to the hub assembly.

I've tried beating on the axle with a hammer (then grinding the mushroomed prt off), threading the nut back on and beating on the socket, an ingersol rand air hammer and prying on the back. Cursing at it didn't even work.

I've soaked it down in WD40 and am calling it a night for now, anyone have any good ideas?

corytate
corytate Dork
6/4/12 7:08 p.m.

slide hammer?
for prying a pickle fork + a bfh is a step above just a pry bar

corytate
corytate Dork
6/4/12 7:10 p.m.

I had this problem when doing my dad's blazer wheel bearing the other day. real pita. ended up hammering it ALOT, then going to a $500 air hammer (not mine, guy in bay next door), THEN it finally let go.
those things are.... fun sometimes.
subaru rear axles require a slide hammer most of the time as well.

DrBoost
DrBoost UberDork
6/4/12 8:42 p.m.

spray some good penetrating oil on the splines as well. Then I'll usually put a sacrificial nut on it and beat the crap outta it.

Streetwiseguy
Streetwiseguy SuperDork
6/4/12 8:52 p.m.

Big three jaw puller on the hub, with the shaft on the end of the CV shaft. Impact wrench, then beat the end of the puller with BFH. If it bends the hub, you were screwed anyway.

turboswede
turboswede GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
6/4/12 9:13 p.m.

WD-40 won't work. It is a water displacer, not for rust.

Get some PB Blaster or Kroll

Soak it over the course of a couple of days.

Use some heat from a torch on the hub to expand it and help the rust breaker to wick into the splines. A cooling spray of water or even freeze spray on the axle can help break the bond.

Repeat several times then try tapping it.

Worst case? Take it to a machine shop to have them press it out.

Good luck!

44Dwarf
44Dwarf SuperDork
6/5/12 6:14 a.m.

By the time your done beating the live rust out of it you should have new bearing pressed in cause beating it is applying all the load through the rollers in the bearing and there not spinning so your making small dents in the races.

Donebrokeit
Donebrokeit Reader
6/5/12 7:40 a.m.

Start with a LOT of PB-blaster, let is sit over night, find another nut that will thread on (keep the nut about two threads above the tip of the shaft) and then find a BFH and have at it with the knuckle secured in a STRONG vise mounted on a STRONG bench.

If this fails then find a torch set and heat it up and reapply a liberal amount of BFH. If you still cannot get the two apart you should head over to your local pick-n-pull, as that thing is most likely berkeleyed.

Good luck and have fun.

Paul B

psychic_mechanic
psychic_mechanic Dork
6/5/12 9:51 a.m.

I decide to drop the strut and worry about the CV axle sometime later. This has opened up all sorts of room on the side that the trans has to come out of any way .

stan_d
stan_d Dork
6/5/12 1:34 p.m.

I have a small press that bolts to hub with the jugnuts then presses out axle

moxnix
moxnix Reader
6/5/12 2:35 p.m.

The small press thing works great. I had the same problem with my protege and beat the E36 M3 out of it trying to get it out before finding this OEM/FWD Hub Puller (took it off in less than 5 mins)

It is a free loaner tool at Autozone but I ended up buying one since I used it so many times.

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